2002 F250 Project
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 2
From: Vacaville, CA
Only advice I offer is next oil change, grab a Motorcraft filter Walmart carries them for $9.00 or so. I would stay away from the Fram, most guys here agree, either Motorcraft or Wix.
Project looks like it's coming along great, Hopefully we will catch ya at one of the Morgan Hill "tech days" sometime. We all like checkin out other peoples trucks and we are more than happy to help you spend your hard earned money as well. Bring that bad boy down there one time and we can check everything out for you on AE and you can pick the brains of some very knowledgeable people.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Nice project!!
If you really do decide to do the '07 front-end, you can easily sell those headlights and corners here (in the classified section). They go for about $100 used in decent shape!
Mechanically, make sure ya don't have any oil, boost or drive pressure leaks and I'd recommend changing the coolant to ELC. Definitely use the Motorcraft 1995 oil filter and its not a bad idea to get a used oil analysis after your first oil change. For about $25, you'll get a baseline for engine wear and can dial in an acceptable oil change interval (no reason to run synthetic if you aren't gonna do extended OCI's
)
Yeah, the turning radius ain't like a Toyota - but ya can't pull 10k lbs with the 'yota either!!!
Keep us posted!!!
If you really do decide to do the '07 front-end, you can easily sell those headlights and corners here (in the classified section). They go for about $100 used in decent shape!
Mechanically, make sure ya don't have any oil, boost or drive pressure leaks and I'd recommend changing the coolant to ELC. Definitely use the Motorcraft 1995 oil filter and its not a bad idea to get a used oil analysis after your first oil change. For about $25, you'll get a baseline for engine wear and can dial in an acceptable oil change interval (no reason to run synthetic if you aren't gonna do extended OCI's
)Yeah, the turning radius ain't like a Toyota - but ya can't pull 10k lbs with the 'yota either!!!
Keep us posted!!!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 4
From: Seattle
X3 on using the Motorcraft FL1995 oil filter instead of that Fram. I never new just how poorly rated Fram filters were until I saw this comparison: Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Good deal on going with the Rotella, I used to run that religiously. I have now switched to Lucas high TBN, seems to run a bit quieter on the Lucas.
Only advice I offer is next oil change, grab a Motorcraft filter Walmart carries them for $9.00 or so. I would stay away from the Fram, most guys here agree, either Motorcraft or Wix.
Project looks like it's coming along great, Hopefully we will catch ya at one of the Morgan Hill "tech days" sometime. We all like checkin out other peoples trucks and we are more than happy to help you spend your hard earned money as well. Bring that bad boy down there one time and we can check everything out for you on AE and you can pick the brains of some very knowledgeable people.
Only advice I offer is next oil change, grab a Motorcraft filter Walmart carries them for $9.00 or so. I would stay away from the Fram, most guys here agree, either Motorcraft or Wix.
Project looks like it's coming along great, Hopefully we will catch ya at one of the Morgan Hill "tech days" sometime. We all like checkin out other peoples trucks and we are more than happy to help you spend your hard earned money as well. Bring that bad boy down there one time and we can check everything out for you on AE and you can pick the brains of some very knowledgeable people.
is this the part i should look at walmart? Motorcraft FL1995.
my schedule is weird i work nights and on call, but where do i get more info on when there is a meet?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: Chippewa Falls, WI
Yep, Fords in general really do not like Fram. My old 351W would knock like hell on a cold startup with a fram, started running Motorcraft and Puroilator and problem solved. Seems well worth the small amount of extra $$$
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 2
From: Vacaville, CA
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-man-town.html
They get held on the weekend and usually run all day and into the evening.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
thanks guys, will do the Motorcraft filter, didnt think its a huge difference.
also my goal is to pull off all the intercooler piping and clean them good, engine bay also needs a really good bath.
anything major to cover up during a wash, intake only or are there are sensitive sensors that you guys think are best to cover up also before spraying with water?
also my goal is to pull off all the intercooler piping and clean them good, engine bay also needs a really good bath.
anything major to cover up during a wash, intake only or are there are sensitive sensors that you guys think are best to cover up also before spraying with water?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 39
I don't advocate a pressure wash. You can force water into a lot of places it shouldn't go, like inside the electrical connectors. They're designed to be water-resistant, not to withstand high-pressure blasts.
I just spray the whole area with undiluted Simple Green (using the foaming sprayer), let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse it with a hose.
I just spray the whole area with undiluted Simple Green (using the foaming sprayer), let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse it with a hose.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I don't advocate a pressure wash. You can force water into a lot of places it shouldn't go, like inside the electrical connectors. They're designed to be water-resistant, not to withstand high-pressure blasts.
I just spray the whole area with undiluted Simple Green (using the foaming sprayer), let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse it with a hose.
I just spray the whole area with undiluted Simple Green (using the foaming sprayer), let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse it with a hose.
I do religiously add dielectric grease to any connector I take apart - but many of the engines I've washed were totally stock. I admit I do avoid directly blasting the 42pin connector and fuse blocks, but VC's, valley, sides and bottom of engine are fair game!! There is no 'degreaser' that will knock the thick sludge most engines have from lack of cleaning...
