Have strong fire. Fuel 40 psi at rail. Emptied tank and added 10 gal fresh fuel and seafoam. Pops off with starting fluid. Will not even try to pop off without. Suspected ignition module was not communicating with the ecm for injector pulse so changed the module. No change. Tested pulse to injector with borrowed injector pulse tester for Dodge. Very weak light pulse but because I've never used an injector tester before I can't really say what the results mean.

Forgot to add that the fuel pump runs the entire time the key is on. It does not pump up and shut down as I thought it should.

 

Check an online manual for the tester to see if theres any clues.

Some times if the distributor is too far out, things look good but the ignition module system flunks data so it doesn't run the engine. Bad thing would be jumped timing belt because thats plain rude of the engine since it changes tdc location of the rotor. But them I might be wrong.....I'm trying to foget working on cars and its all fading fast

 

You either have a bad computer (most likely) or you have lost the ground at the NEG post of the battery with the small black wire with a green or white stripe.
It is also possible that you lost power to the computer but not very likely.

At any rate the clock in the computer is not running. This could be caused by a bad crystal or electrolytic capacitor in the computer or lack of power or ground to the computer.

 

So far everything I've read says what both of you have said. Bad ecm ground, distributor too far out ( was pulled to c/o module ) or bad ecm. I'll check my grounds and distributor position. The battery ground terminal has the chassis ground wire on it and a approx 10ga solid black wire that has a round black disconnect / connector about 4" from the end. I'm assuming that is the same as the "small black wire with a green or white stripe" subford was tallking about. I'll let y'all know what happens.

The ground wire with the connector does have a green stripe.

 

The Distributor would have nothing to do with your problem with the fuel pumps running all the time the key is on.

 

So far I've double checked my distributor position - it's correct. I've checked / cleaned all the chassis and battery grounds I could find and no go. I'm pulling the ecm next and at least looking at it and the connections. Are there any hard to find grounds I should check?

 

When you pull the computer open it up. You may be able to see the problem.
If you are good with a soldering iron you may be able to replace the crystal or electrolytic capacitors in the computer.

 

Pulled the ecc and opened it up. Two capacitors are corroded and damaged ( one leg of one lifted off ) and the board and coating is blackened between the two. Hope it is a ecc fault and not something else that caused the damage. It looks like it is a leaking capacitor issue. I'm just replacing it. Already ordered. I'll follow up with the results.

 

Fried for sure.

 

The final chapter to this saga: Bad computer. Installed the new $77.00 ordered from AutoZone online and she fired right up. This was the cause of all things bad.

Thanks for all the help fellas!

clman - out.