Electrical issues
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Electrical issues
Just bought a 1989 f 250 7.3l idi n/a
I'm hoping my starting system is fine after replacing the batteries.
Had 2 batteries that were supposedly "newer" and I didn't have a problem starting. Well I've been driving her and haven't been revving past 1800. I stopped at a fuel station and when I was gonna start her, it didn't even have the power to crank it. Tested the batteries and got 11.79 out of the passenger side and 11.72 out of the drivers. I replaced both batteries, my dash gauge without running is just above 8 amps. While driving for about 10 minutes so far and keeping her above 2000 rpm, I cant barely get the gauge past the 10 amp line. Or which ever that first solid line represents.
I do have corrosion off the positive terminal, and I want to clean up the wiring still. What do u guys think my steps should be here?
I'm hoping my starting system is fine after replacing the batteries.
Had 2 batteries that were supposedly "newer" and I didn't have a problem starting. Well I've been driving her and haven't been revving past 1800. I stopped at a fuel station and when I was gonna start her, it didn't even have the power to crank it. Tested the batteries and got 11.79 out of the passenger side and 11.72 out of the drivers. I replaced both batteries, my dash gauge without running is just above 8 amps. While driving for about 10 minutes so far and keeping her above 2000 rpm, I cant barely get the gauge past the 10 amp line. Or which ever that first solid line represents.
I do have corrosion off the positive terminal, and I want to clean up the wiring still. What do u guys think my steps should be here?
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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i think your first step should be having your alternator load-tested. if its good, start chasing wires and fix up your corrosion issues.
if its bad, decide between replacing it with another of the same, or replacing it with a newer 3g unit. do a search for "alternator upgrade" and you'll be busy reading till you start wrenching. tons of threads on the subject.
if you still have the batteries that died on you, charge them up and they're probably still good. though it would be wise to have them tested
if its bad, decide between replacing it with another of the same, or replacing it with a newer 3g unit. do a search for "alternator upgrade" and you'll be busy reading till you start wrenching. tons of threads on the subject.
if you still have the batteries that died on you, charge them up and they're probably still good. though it would be wise to have them tested
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A few items that you should do before spending a bunch of money:
1. undo all connections and clean with a battery terminal cleaner, sandpaper/wire brush contact surfaces, and then re-assemble with dielectric grease liberally.
2. Your gauge may not read right and it reads voltage of the charging system not amp draw. Best to use a test light at the batteries and alternator with the truck off, idling, and revved up to 2,000 rpm. (be careful of the spinning fan)
3. Charge your batteries on a trickle charge overnight so you know they are fully charged when you start troubleshooting.
My experience has been that wire connections can surprise you at how much power they can draw off when they are dirty and corroded. Also it can prevent the batteries from charging in some cases.
After those steps (doesn't really take long to clean connections) if you have the same low reading on the gauge, and the batteries drain after awhile of driving or sitting, then I would say that your alternator is the culprit.
This is what I would do before spending money on an alternator without having a well educated guess.
1. undo all connections and clean with a battery terminal cleaner, sandpaper/wire brush contact surfaces, and then re-assemble with dielectric grease liberally.
2. Your gauge may not read right and it reads voltage of the charging system not amp draw. Best to use a test light at the batteries and alternator with the truck off, idling, and revved up to 2,000 rpm. (be careful of the spinning fan)
3. Charge your batteries on a trickle charge overnight so you know they are fully charged when you start troubleshooting.
My experience has been that wire connections can surprise you at how much power they can draw off when they are dirty and corroded. Also it can prevent the batteries from charging in some cases.
After those steps (doesn't really take long to clean connections) if you have the same low reading on the gauge, and the batteries drain after awhile of driving or sitting, then I would say that your alternator is the culprit.
This is what I would do before spending money on an alternator without having a well educated guess.
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Hey guys, thanks for the hand. My alternator wasn't charging anything, and after removing it and putting it on a bench, it actually read -5 draw lol. It was emergent enough for me to wait and do the 3G upgrade another day. Had an electrical shop that I had an 'in' to down the street.
This weekend i plan to have some cleaner wiring, coolant flush, wiper switch relay replaced and a belt diagnosed.
Just today when we had a cold snap down to about -6 C I had belts that screamed under load(it would inmediately stop when i left off the throttle, it occured at certain ranges of rpm)
I think they may have been too tight?
This weekend i plan to have some cleaner wiring, coolant flush, wiper switch relay replaced and a belt diagnosed.
Just today when we had a cold snap down to about -6 C I had belts that screamed under load(it would inmediately stop when i left off the throttle, it occured at certain ranges of rpm)
I think they may have been too tight?
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strokin'_tatsch
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