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Rear Rotor Replacement

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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:20 PM
  #1  
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From: ellensburg
Rear Rotor Replacement

Hey guys,

So I'm supposed to be helping my buddy replace his rear rotors and break pads tonight, and I know the basic procedure, but was wondering if anyone has a good write up, possibly with pictures, supplies, and tool list, for doing this maintenance. I know there is a search function, however I am at work right now, and dont really have the time to go sifting though all the possible results looking for a quality write up. Figure someone on here has got to have a quality one sitting around saved somewhere.

Thanks in advance guys.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:24 PM
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Here you go. Have fun. Welcome to guzzle's Powerslot/Hawk pads brake Maintenance Web Page
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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That was for the fronts... the rears are waaay more complex because of the parking brakes.

Some take out the back axle, but you know what a lightweight I am... so I did the parking brakes with the axle in place. It gobbled my whole Saturday at a liesurely pace. Get parking brake parts, they're rusted up but good.









 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 03:40 PM
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A big-*** 3 jaw gear puller shure makes things easier. Beats using a BFH.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 12:43 AM
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Aero-Kroil and a BFH should work well also. I know I don't have a 3 jaw puller that big. hummmm. I choose Aerokroil and BFH!
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 02:19 AM
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Do the parking brakes adjust just like the old fashoned drum brakes did? with the starwheel adjuster on the bottom? Mine need to be snugged up a bit. With the manual trans, a out of adjustment parking brake makes launching a boat kind of a pain by yourself. My book is kind of vague on the subject of parking brakes.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 07:01 AM
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Yup... star wheel, but this will not likely help. There is an actuator lever that the cable pulls on and it's invariably rusted/siezed. You'll see a funky lever-looking thing in my picture with all the parts on display - that's the bugger. $40 for a pair of them at the stealership and you have to strip all the parts out of your rear brakes to replace it. I coated mine with lithium grease before I re-installed mine to hopefully make it last longer. My park brake now works great when I launch and I didn't need to adjust the park-brake cable. Sorry... I know this is bad news.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by miller_feed
Here's the rears: Welcome to camodown's Rear Hub Seals and Parking Brake repairs
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
Darn, Chris, I thought I posted that one. I guess I should look at the link after I post it.

Thanks for posting the right one.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by miller_feed
Darn, Chris, I thought I posted that one. I guess I should look at the link after I post it.

Thanks for posting the right one.
Haha. No worries. My coffee is working for once this morning.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
My coffee is working for once this morning.
My coffee is effective and fast-acting every morning... I can't walk past the bathroom without paying a visit.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 09:53 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
Yup... star wheel, but this will not likely help. There is an acuator lever that the cable pulls on and it's invariably rusted/siezed. You'll see a funky lever-looking thing in my picture with all the parts on display - that's the bugger. $40 for a pair of them at the stealership and you have to strip all the parts out of your rear brakes to replace it. I coated mine with lithium grease before I re-installed mine to hopefully make it last longer. My park brake now works great when I launch and I didn't need to adjust the park-brake cable. Sorry... I know this is bad news.
Thanks
Well, that's what I needed to know. Mine works just not as good as it should. Hopefully I will get it fixed before the white stuff flies but if not I will get it in the spring.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 12:10 PM
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On a dually - you do have to pull the axles and hub is held on by a big nut, requiring spanner wrench to remove.

Even if the e-brake parts aren't rusty, the star-wheels often stick or the pot-metal nuts strip out. I've seen home-made replacements made by grinding slots in a standard nut. Brand new shoes and new rotors - perfectly adjusted - still provide a miserable excuse for an e-brake on these trucks. There is no way that POS will hold my 10k truck with a trailer on any kind of grade. A friend recently told me he took the grinder to his 'drums' and roughed them up real good and found it made a HUGE difference - not quite lock up the tires when rolling, but much better than stock. I WILL be doing this first chance I get.

Meanwhile, I am working on an end-all solution for this anemic, POS excuse for an e-brake Ford stuck us with. Hopefully I'll have a marketable product by springtime... (just don't tell anybody yet, mmmmkay? - I'm sure glad nobody reads these posts )
 
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