Remove welded hitch
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Remove welded hitch
Ok, the truck I bought had the side plates in the bed for a fifth wheel trailer setup as well as a 2" receiver installed. I didn't look that closely at the hitch other than to see it was welded to the frame. Now that I look closely at it I'm a bit worried that it won't hold up to the task I have for it.
It needs to pull an ~8000 lb loaded travel trailer (with equalizer) on a 1500 mile trip half way across the country.
I know things were done a bit differently in 89 but this just looks a little too home grown for me. Am I being a little too paranoid or should I get this cut off (or get out my grinder) and get a true class III and bolt it on (or have it welded)?
Truck is a 1989 F-250 S-Cab with 460, etc so I know the truck itself will handle it.
It's all 3/8" steel and the welds look decent, I just can't get past the main cross piece being a C channel rather than a full tube like you see now and the fact the I will be using the equalizer hitch with it.
These are the best pics I could get of it (Yes I need to get out the rustoleum).
It needs to pull an ~8000 lb loaded travel trailer (with equalizer) on a 1500 mile trip half way across the country.
I know things were done a bit differently in 89 but this just looks a little too home grown for me. Am I being a little too paranoid or should I get this cut off (or get out my grinder) and get a true class III and bolt it on (or have it welded)?
Truck is a 1989 F-250 S-Cab with 460, etc so I know the truck itself will handle it.
It's all 3/8" steel and the welds look decent, I just can't get past the main cross piece being a C channel rather than a full tube like you see now and the fact the I will be using the equalizer hitch with it.
These are the best pics I could get of it (Yes I need to get out the rustoleum).
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Well had to move the trailer around the yard yesterday. The gap between the receiver and bumper was about 1/8th of an inch. After putting the trailer weight on it that gap grew to about 5/8th inch while it only dropped the rear of the truck about an inch.
Just ordered a class IV from Amazon (free 2 day shipping) and I foresee some grinding in my future.
Just ordered a class IV from Amazon (free 2 day shipping) and I foresee some grinding in my future.
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Yea, a torch and an unknown gas tank don't mix for me. It's enough of a risk with the sparks from the grinder. I'll start with cut off wheels and get it off with that then clean it up with a regular grinding wheel and flap disks. I'm not as worried about looks as I am function.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
A spark from the grinder will light it off as quick as the torch will. Probably should remove the gas tank first.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
I was thinking the same thing
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Well I figure unless I have a fuel leak or I aim the grinder at the fuel tank (Hey Y'all, Watch This) I should be ok. Also that tank hasn't had any fuel in it for about 6 months. Previous owner ran it dry then always used the front tank since the rear one had a locking cap on it he didn't have the key for.
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Well it's changed out. Use a sawzall with a torch metal blade and it cut through it like it was butter. Took me longer to grind off what was left and the welds. But now the truck has a class IV hitch bolted on and I feel a lot better about it.
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