Hi all this is my first post. I just picked up a 1994 f150 xl extended cab 302 2wd 5 speed with 217km on the clock. It runs ok but far from good to say the least which doesn't bother me because I bought this with the intentions of it being a project truck. It has a pretty bad shake to it which I think is the engine because when I rev it just sitting in neutral with the clutch in she shakes pretty bad and runs rough once it's hot. I will be doing a full tune-up on it soon. At the same time of said tune-up I would like to do a "maf conversion" as well. I tried looking for a complete kit but the only one I found was from Ford Racing which is ok but the kit is no longer available on their site so it says. I was wondering if anyone knew of a kit that was still available to buy. I know I'll probably get flamed for wanting to buy a kit instead of doing it all my self because I would save so much money but I'm far from a master mechanic (took me most of the day just to change the clutch) and any way to make it easier on myself until I'm more familiar with the truck, I'm doing. Any insight on this would be much appreciated and maybe a little direction on what I should do for a tune-up. It almost sounds like it's missing once i hit 1600 on and that's when the whole truck starts to shake from the floor up and the motor visibly shakes as well. The weird part is it feels like it has more bottom/mid-range than it does top end which is weird for a 302 in my mind.

 

The guy I bought the truck from says that the old ford trucks just run rough and it's normal but I beg to differ. He says I have to adapt because I'm a big Chevy guy and he says that Chevy's just run a lot smoother which again correct me if I'm wrong but i think that's a load of crap.

 

Ha! no.. the engine should not run that rough so you have a problem, get all new plugs and wires on that thing ASAP, pull the codes, check fuel pressure, and change all the fluids and filters.

 

Ya that's what I figured. I've always loved this style of F150 and I'm happy I now have one. The guy I bought it from kept saying that it runs mint and there's nothing wrong with the way she goes. It literally shakes the whole truck when i rev it up when just sitting and when going through the gears from a stop it's just non stop shake even when cruising but only gets bad once it's hot. I got on it merging on the highway for the first time and took third to 4000rpm and a bit of fourth and the engine light came on for a couple seconds and then went out. After that I said to myself it's time to get to work. Maybe a bit overboard but i was thinking of getting a new distributor, wires, plugs, all sensors, re-do the timing, and a couple back to back oil changes. Is there anything else I should look at or replace. I will start to build it up but I just need it to get me to work and back until I can get my life back in check and build up money again. I checked compression and it was actually steady across the board which surprised me. I don't think it's anything driveline related because like I said it shakes when just sitting and revving. Plus after the previous owner kept persisting that that's just how the motor ran I replaced the clutch, carrier bearing and u-joint and didn't change a thing other than I know have a good clutch and smoother shifting.

 

The weird part is it actually idles pretty good other than sometimes it will sit at 8-900 for a little bit before settling down to 550-600. It's only once I start to give it some gas it or put it under load at anything higher than 1500 it starts to shake. Should I maybe get new injectors as well? From the research I've done I think I need to change them to 24lbs with the MAF conversion anyways (correct me if I'm wrong)

 

Mass-air.com is the simplest.
You can do others such as RJM or make it your self.
Oldfuelinjection.com

 

Start with the basics, get all new plugs and wires on there in the right order, the PO was a "big chevy guy" which means they're probably routed incorrectly... that cold be the cause of your rough running right there so double check that too it should be 13726548.


No all 5/0/5.8 MAF computers are 19lb.

 

Ok thanks again for your help guys. I ordered a new distributor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, map sensor, iac, and lots of oil change stuff. Will spend a couple hours on it tonight and post up how it went.

 

Thank you for pointing this out i thought I was going to have to do it all myself and I was looking for a kit like set up. A little pricey for the moment but definitely something I will be doing in the near future. Quick question though, do they offer different firing orders in the kits or no?

 

They are wired for HO firing orders, but just change plug routing.

 

So for the update....... I have a V8 again haha. The plugs that were in it were disgusting and 2 were barely hanging on they were so loose. Was a pain to do the 1-4 bank for plugs but it was so worth it. I just changed the plugs,wires, cap,rotor, and air filter and it made such a difference already. My idle is much smother and it pulls with a lot more force now. I still have to do the fuel filter, pcv, coil, check the injectors, and change to synthetic. The only thing that worried me was a few of the plugs were white and I'm yet to figure out why it's running so lean. Still shakes a bit when I'm flooring it in the midrange but no were near as bad.

 

You could have dirty or partially clogged injectors, change the fuel filter and run some seafoam through the fuel system and if that doesn't improve things you're gonna have to pull the upper intake off and clean or replace the injectors. They have a little screen on the top to prevent large pieces of dirt or varnish from getting in them so if some of that has gotten past the filter or of the truck sat for a long time that may be the problem and it's an easy fix.

 

I'm gonna throw in a yes-but in there for this...I do like their kit, it is easy to install, you can get wiring harnesses that make things easier, etc. I would use them again BUT I would NOT use the C&L housing with the calibration tube they will sell you. I would use the C&L housing, or similar, with that type of MASS Air sensor but not the tube. To eliminate the tube you need to have the PCM tuned to compensate for the changes. You can get a tune and not have to do it again if you don't want to change anything else. Reason I say to not rely on the calibration tube is because after the conversation on my truck, I wasn't able to start the motor and it was all because of the reading the MASS Air sensor was getting with the calibration tube. At the time I had no idea it was the computer that needed to be tuned (so you benefit).

 

I have an afe box sitting around so I will make my own intake for it and make a new scoop for between the grill. I don't like how close the maf would sit the the box on the factory intake and want it a little farther down the line so there is no turbulance. Would this solve the problem your talking about?

 

As far as the injectors go I was just going to order new 19lbs off rockauto for 150 bucks. Is that a no go? I know they are cheap but probobly would work better than the old ones I have in it. I just checked the compression again today and I can't believe how good it is for a 20 year old truck. Just goes to show you how reliable these old 302's are.