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Priming a new Longblock?

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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:15 PM
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Priming a new Longblock?

I got my Longblock from Blackwater and they are adamant about priming the engine for first start. If not primed warranty is void. I'm reading that most people are not doing this since the oil can be top fed through the oil filter.

I have a vacume thing I can use to prime it But I'm not sure what port to suck through.

That test port on the front of the oil cooler housing looks promising (it sticks out right under where the cac hose goes into the intake).
A guy at Blackwater was saying that in house they just connect a pump garden sprayer into the oil pressure sensor port (low pressure oil I'm guessing) and put light pressure and it fills the entire engine. That seems counter intuitive to me.

Anyone prime one of these... ever????
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by creator
That test port on the front of the oil cooler housing looks promising (it sticks out right under where the cac hose goes into the intake).
A guy at Blackwater was saying that in house they just connect a pump garden sprayer into the oil pressure sensor port (low pressure oil I'm guessing) and put light pressure and it fills the entire engine. That seems counter intuitive to me.

Anyone prime one of these... ever????
what about pulling the ficm relay and just cranking the engine for 30 or 45 seconds?
the engine was put together wet with assembly oil, so spinning it a bit without combustion
shouldn't be an issue.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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From: Cottonwood, AZ
Originally Posted by Fulthrotl
what about pulling the ficm relay and just cranking the engine for 30 or 45 seconds?
the engine was put together wet with assembly oil, so spinning it a bit without combustion
shouldn't be an issue.
That is exactly what they say voids the warranty.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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From: Spanaway
Pre-oiling is the key gas or diesel.
With a gas engine I have a tool that I can use to drive the oil pump
with a diesel your going to have to pressure feed it.

The other place would the oil pressure switch port
with the same pressure tank way that they used
Blackwater.That way your are pressure feeding
the full system. That will fill all the passages and
even start to fill the lifters so you don't have any
dry bearings. You may want to also pre-fill
the HPOP reservoir so the injectors take less time to
get oil.


Sean
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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Seems to me if it's critical to the warranty it should (at least) come with very specific instructions as far as which port, what pressure, and how long or how much oil to pump. With a purchase this expensive it would be in everyones best interest for it to come with the fittings and the $35 pump sprayer also.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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From: Spanaway
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
Seems to me if it's critical to the warranty it should (at least) come with very specific instructions as far as which port, what pressure, and how long or how much oil to pump. With a purchase this expensive it would be in everyones best interest for it to come with the fittings and the $35 pump sprayer also.
I very much agree with you.

Sean
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
I very much agree with you.

Sean
Yes sir, I'm paying attention. So, are we going with the oil pressure sensor port??? Will it top off there, or will it start to pour into the pan when the passages are full?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 12:43 AM
  #8  
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Darm I posted that in the wrong place.

I would use the test port or the pressure
switch port and the oil pressure regulator
will help keep oil in the system. I always
pre-prime a system on any engine build.
Be it auto or aircraft.

Sean
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by creator
That is exactly what they say voids the warranty.
ok, then don't do that.. it was a suggestion...

what they are saying is that rotating a wet engine without
combustion taking place or fuel being injected will damage
it?

here ya go.....

AutoEngineLube Engine Oil Pre Lube System Turbo Pre-Post-Lube
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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I bought a longblock from Blackwater a couple years back. I just filled the HPOP system and cranked it over with the FICM unplugged until I got pressure.

Basically they said don't crank it over for long periods of time.

No issues.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sullyt28
I bought a longblock from Blackwater a couple years back. I just filled the HPOP system and cranked it over with the FICM unplugged until I got pressure.

Basically they said don't crank it over for long periods of time.

No issues.
Now that makes more sense. Also a good reason for not
doing extended cranking would be the starter over heating
and the batteries running down.
It would be easy to prime that way. The pre-fil on the HPOP
would make it even better.
How much time did it take to get the oil gauge to move?
I would think that about 20-30 sec on the starter at a time
with a 3 min cool down would be a good plan. Then after it
primed I would have the charger on it and let it rest for time
it took to recharge the batteries before the first START.
That way you have 100% charge on the batteries.

Sean
P.S. Good thing I don't get charged by the word for internet usage.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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From: Alliston, Ontario
It actually took awhile for the gauge would move. I did as you mentioned, cranked for about 10~15 seconds at a time with about a minute or so inbetween. After about 2-3 minutes of doing this the gauge jumped.

It took about another 5 minutes - same thing 15 second key on than sit for a minute before it actually fired. Charger was on the batterys.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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Inquiring Minds Want To Know
So now that is started what do you think ?
How does it feel and sound?

Sean
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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From: Cottonwood, AZ
Originally Posted by sullyt28
I bought a longblock from Blackwater a couple years back. I just filled the HPOP system and cranked it over with the FICM unplugged until I got pressure.

Basically they said don't crank it over for long periods of time.

No issues.
They apparently changed their warranty terms since you bought yours. It is very clearly spelled out in their warranty now. Along with enough BS to keep almost any normal person from successfully getting a warranty claim. Including but not limited to: New Turbo is REQUIRED, New injectors are required or injectors must be sent to and AUTHORIZED shop for full testing, Coolant system must be hydraulically primed and all air removed from system, etc.

Blackwater is still giving me lines of BS and telling me that the gaskets are OEM when they included the Victor Reinz product sheet with the engine. The Victor Reinz engine rebuild gasket set they include is a generic set which was not only missing some of the most important o-rings(CPS and Crank position sensor, all of the drain plug ports, all of the fuel bowl o-rings, etc) but had over 20 extra o-rings which go to nothing on a 6.0 be it F series or excursion.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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From: Cottonwood, AZ
Originally Posted by Yahiko
Inquiring Minds Want To Know
So now that is started what do you think ?
How does it feel and sound?

Sean
I'm not at all impressed. The rebuilt engine obviously came from a truck with a lot of miles and abuse. There is a lot of slop and noise to the engine. The engine I replaced was quieter than this one and it had developed knocking and noise over the last 50,000 miles of heavy towing as an RV transporter. The new engine has more blow-by than my old motor which again only developed blow by in the last 50,000 miles. My only hope is that the head gaskets are going to hold. In which case I would have been better off keeping my old engine and just doing a quick head gasket job and lived with the noise and blow-by (I have to now with a "Rebuilt" engine).

I'm at 1000 miles now and it was broken in according to the outline in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-the-6-0l.html


I'm going to try to get a free extended warranty out of them. But if they don't go for it I will be buying one, even though the warranty terms are BS.

I will be writing a complete experience and recommendation report after I do my first light trailer pull.
I spent 5 days working 14+ hours a day to do the swap, and the last 2 days driving back to Indiana. Still recovering.
 
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