'92 problems with RABS and starting
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
'92 problems with RABS and starting
Hey, I am wrestling with two problems,
First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Can anyome give a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurrs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine. Ideas?
First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Can anyome give a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurrs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine. Ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 7
The first thing to check with the ABS is that the reservoiur is filled. Low brake fluid will trigger a fault light.
On your starting problem, do you loose coolant that does not leak externally? Can you hear the fuel pump during a no start condition?
On your starting problem, do you loose coolant that does not leak externally? Can you hear the fuel pump during a no start condition?
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
This car has been in my hands for couple of months, so I cannot tell about coolant history. Once I found it low, added it then and repaired cracked hoses, which might of leaked, might not. I don't know was it low for long time or short. How can it affect the engine working?
Yes, I hear the pump every time the key is turned to RUN.
Yes, I hear the pump every time the key is turned to RUN.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
the RABS Code Wire is located near the harness for the RABS Module. Culprits can be the Speed Sensor mounted on the top of differential, the brake fluid reservoir float switch, RABS Module itself, wiring issues, a bad RABS fuse, etc., etc. Personally, I hate RABS, totally useless and annoying.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 3
From: Dallas, Texas
I think on the 92 you have a centering pin right below the master the brake cylinder. it has 2 black wires going into a brake line distribution block for the front and rear brakes. take this connection off and remove the sending unit and make sure the plunger is moving easy and the spring is not sticking. You can clean it with contact cleaner and a rag. Also the second culprit is the rear axle speed sensor.
To retrieve the codes find the connector with a black wire on one side and a black and yellow on the other. I have noticed some have a black on one end and a yellow or orange on the other. It should be right under the dash just to the right of the steering wheel.
To retrieve the codes find the connector with a black wire on one side and a black and yellow on the other. I have noticed some have a black on one end and a yellow or orange on the other. It should be right under the dash just to the right of the steering wheel.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
You did t specify what engine you had but most likely your starting problem is a sticking egr valve. When they stick in the open position it causes a gasoline engine to run rough until its up to temp. And as for the abs light I'll put my money on a bad rear abs sensor. They seem to always be the culprit. You can unplug the connector jack the rear up, put a volt meter on ac current and spin the tires. The sensor should produce some sort of voltage. If not, remove it, check for metal shavings, then replace it. Simple do it yourself stuff.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
92 RABSII system
This repair procedure is written for REAR ABS II (RABS II) systems (as opposed to REAR ABS I [RABS I] systems). RABS II systems are standard for 1992 and later Aerostar, as well as 1993 and later Rangers. In the event that you are not sure if you have a RABS I or a RABS II system in your vehicle, check the module part number. Anti-lock electronic control module part numbers for RABS II will begin with either: F29F-2C018- or F37F-2C018-. All other part numbers should be considered to be a RABS I. Refer to the repair manual for that model year vehicle.
The anti-lock electronic control module (2C018) uses both the red BRAKE and yellow REAR ABS instrument panel warning lights to alert the driver to a system malfunction. Both lights must be working properly to assist in concern diagnosis. The steps listed below must be followed prior to beginning the RABS II diagnostic procedure.
Warning Lamp Indicators
The red BRAKE warning light is constantly monitored by the anti-lock electronic control module. If the red light illuminates, the anti-lock electronic control module will disable the RABS II system. For this reason, diagnosing and resolving any base brake concerns illuminating the red BRAKE warning light will, in most cases, resolve a perceived RABS II concern.
Pinpoint Tests
Assuming the red BRAKE warning light diagnosis has been performed and passed, and the REAR ABS warning light is illuminated, the code retrieved is used to designate the appropriate pinpoint test. The pinpoint tests are relatively simple and will be effective in most situations. If resolution is not reached by the end of the pinpoint test, additional, more in-depth procedures are provided in the drive tests.
Drive Tests
The drive tests will aid in diagnosing more complex concerns, and in general, are more time consuming to perform than the pinpoint tests.
NOTE: Do not proceed to any pinpoint test unless directed to do so.
At times, running completely through both pinpoint and drive tests will not lead to concern resolution. Often, the concern is due to an intermittent connection, termination, or a damaged circuit. An attempt has been made to point out obvious sources for potential intermittents within the pinpoint tests. However, it should be noted that several circuits pass through one or more connections between components. These are also areas of potential concern and should be considered. Refer to the Intermittent Diagnosis procedure.
Vehicle Setup
For 4-wheel drive vehicles, shift into 2-wheel drive. Drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Turn the ignition off, set the parking brake and turn on the running lamps. Place blocks behind the wheels.
WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE SYSTEM PRE-CHECK IS BEING DONE.
Release the parking brake and continue to Brake Light Self-Check.
Brake Light Self-Check
The red BRAKE warning light is used to indicate a low brake fluid level condition or parking brake applied condition. To check this light, insert the key in the ignition lock cylinder and turn it to the START position. The BRAKE warning light should glow in this position. If it fails to glow, service the electrical system as required. Go to System Pre-Check Test B, Red Brake Light OFF and Does Not Self-Check .
Allow the key to spring back from the START position to the RUN position. At this time the red BRAKE warning light should turn off. If it does not turn off, recheck the parking brake switch to make sure that it is fully disengaged. If the red BRAKE warning light is still on, service the base brake system. In the event that the red brake warning light remains on, go to System Pre-Check Test E, Red Brake Light ON .
Rear Anti-Lock Bulb Diagnostics
The yellow REAR ABS warning light is used to indicate a malfunction and a deactivation of the RABS II system. To check this light, first follow the procedure above for Brake Light Self-Check, and allow the key to spring back from START position to the RUN position. The REAR ABS light should perform a self-check by glowing for approximately two seconds and then turn off. If it fails to glow, service the RABS lamp electrical system . Go to System Pre-Check Test A, Yellow REAR ABS Light OFF and Does Not Self-Check . If it turns back on and does not flash, then a system concern has been detected. Refer to Procedures For Obtaining Diagnostic Trouble Code.
On-Board Diagnostics
If the yellow REAR ABS warning light begins to flash, this indicates that the keep-alive memory (KAM) power to the anti-lock electronic control module has been disrupted. If this condition occurs, service the RABS II KAM power system as required. Go to System Pre-Check Test C, Yellow REAR ABS Light Self-Check OK, but Light Automatically Begins Flashing .
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), Retrieving
NOTE: Verify the ignition switch (11572) is in the RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Next, locate the black RABS II diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector has two mating halves (one of which has a black/orange wire connected to it). Disconnect the two halves.
NOTE: Some Aerostar vehicles were built with locking terminals in the diagnostic connector, making it difficult to disconnect the two mating halves.
Use the following procedure Steps 1 through 4 if servicing an Aerostar with locking terminals.
For Ranger go to Step 5.
Lift the latch on the female housing to disengage the locking mechanism.
Attempt to separate the two connector halves until the terminals lock.
On the top portion of the connector housing, opposite the mounting tabs, there is a small hole. Insert a narrow blade screwdriver or scribe type tool into the hole until it stops.
Separate the two connector housing halves by pushing the tool handle toward the black/orange wire.
Attach one end of a jumper wire to the black with orange stripe wire side of the diagnostic connector.
Momentarily ground the opposite end of the jumper wire by connecting it to a good chassis ground for 1-2 seconds.
Grounding this wire should start the REAR ABS lamp flashing. If grounding this wire does not start the REAR ABS lamp flashing, go to System Pre-Check Test D, Yellow REAR ABS Light Self-Check OK, but No Diagnostic Trouble Code When Diagnostics started .
CAUTION: Care must be taken to connect only the black/orange stripe wire to ground. Connecting the mating connector wire to ground will result in a blown fuse.
The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates diagnostic trouble Code 4. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. This code will be used later for system repair instructions, it should be written down for future use. A diagnostic trouble code of 16 will be obtained when the module detects normal system operation.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), Erasing
The last step of the System Pre-Check always includes clearing the keep-alive memory (KAM). To do this, simply turn off the ignition while the diagnostic connector halves are separated as described in the procedures for obtaining the diagnostic trouble code above, after which the diagnostic connector should be reassembled to provide KAM power to the anti-lock electronic control module. If at this time a valid code has been obtained, go to the appropriate pinpoint test for that code.
additional RABS info
How To: Solve ABS problems on a 1995 Aerostar. - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®
you can pull guesses out of a rabbit's hat all day long and not solve Ford RABS problems. requires in depth step by step troubleshooting/analysis
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With the hard start problem read the PCM codes first and please post here. '92 has OBDI EECIV PCM system electronics.
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
This repair procedure is written for REAR ABS II (RABS II) systems (as opposed to REAR ABS I [RABS I] systems). RABS II systems are standard for 1992 and later Aerostar, as well as 1993 and later Rangers. In the event that you are not sure if you have a RABS I or a RABS II system in your vehicle, check the module part number. Anti-lock electronic control module part numbers for RABS II will begin with either: F29F-2C018- or F37F-2C018-. All other part numbers should be considered to be a RABS I. Refer to the repair manual for that model year vehicle.
The anti-lock electronic control module (2C018) uses both the red BRAKE and yellow REAR ABS instrument panel warning lights to alert the driver to a system malfunction. Both lights must be working properly to assist in concern diagnosis. The steps listed below must be followed prior to beginning the RABS II diagnostic procedure.
Warning Lamp Indicators
The red BRAKE warning light is constantly monitored by the anti-lock electronic control module. If the red light illuminates, the anti-lock electronic control module will disable the RABS II system. For this reason, diagnosing and resolving any base brake concerns illuminating the red BRAKE warning light will, in most cases, resolve a perceived RABS II concern.
Pinpoint Tests
Assuming the red BRAKE warning light diagnosis has been performed and passed, and the REAR ABS warning light is illuminated, the code retrieved is used to designate the appropriate pinpoint test. The pinpoint tests are relatively simple and will be effective in most situations. If resolution is not reached by the end of the pinpoint test, additional, more in-depth procedures are provided in the drive tests.
Drive Tests
The drive tests will aid in diagnosing more complex concerns, and in general, are more time consuming to perform than the pinpoint tests.
NOTE: Do not proceed to any pinpoint test unless directed to do so.
At times, running completely through both pinpoint and drive tests will not lead to concern resolution. Often, the concern is due to an intermittent connection, termination, or a damaged circuit. An attempt has been made to point out obvious sources for potential intermittents within the pinpoint tests. However, it should be noted that several circuits pass through one or more connections between components. These are also areas of potential concern and should be considered. Refer to the Intermittent Diagnosis procedure.
Vehicle Setup
For 4-wheel drive vehicles, shift into 2-wheel drive. Drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Turn the ignition off, set the parking brake and turn on the running lamps. Place blocks behind the wheels.
WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE SYSTEM PRE-CHECK IS BEING DONE.
Release the parking brake and continue to Brake Light Self-Check.
Brake Light Self-Check
The red BRAKE warning light is used to indicate a low brake fluid level condition or parking brake applied condition. To check this light, insert the key in the ignition lock cylinder and turn it to the START position. The BRAKE warning light should glow in this position. If it fails to glow, service the electrical system as required. Go to System Pre-Check Test B, Red Brake Light OFF and Does Not Self-Check .
Allow the key to spring back from the START position to the RUN position. At this time the red BRAKE warning light should turn off. If it does not turn off, recheck the parking brake switch to make sure that it is fully disengaged. If the red BRAKE warning light is still on, service the base brake system. In the event that the red brake warning light remains on, go to System Pre-Check Test E, Red Brake Light ON .
Rear Anti-Lock Bulb Diagnostics
The yellow REAR ABS warning light is used to indicate a malfunction and a deactivation of the RABS II system. To check this light, first follow the procedure above for Brake Light Self-Check, and allow the key to spring back from START position to the RUN position. The REAR ABS light should perform a self-check by glowing for approximately two seconds and then turn off. If it fails to glow, service the RABS lamp electrical system . Go to System Pre-Check Test A, Yellow REAR ABS Light OFF and Does Not Self-Check . If it turns back on and does not flash, then a system concern has been detected. Refer to Procedures For Obtaining Diagnostic Trouble Code.
On-Board Diagnostics
If the yellow REAR ABS warning light begins to flash, this indicates that the keep-alive memory (KAM) power to the anti-lock electronic control module has been disrupted. If this condition occurs, service the RABS II KAM power system as required. Go to System Pre-Check Test C, Yellow REAR ABS Light Self-Check OK, but Light Automatically Begins Flashing .
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), Retrieving
NOTE: Verify the ignition switch (11572) is in the RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Next, locate the black RABS II diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector has two mating halves (one of which has a black/orange wire connected to it). Disconnect the two halves.
NOTE: Some Aerostar vehicles were built with locking terminals in the diagnostic connector, making it difficult to disconnect the two mating halves.
Use the following procedure Steps 1 through 4 if servicing an Aerostar with locking terminals.
For Ranger go to Step 5.
Lift the latch on the female housing to disengage the locking mechanism.
Attempt to separate the two connector halves until the terminals lock.
On the top portion of the connector housing, opposite the mounting tabs, there is a small hole. Insert a narrow blade screwdriver or scribe type tool into the hole until it stops.
Separate the two connector housing halves by pushing the tool handle toward the black/orange wire.
Attach one end of a jumper wire to the black with orange stripe wire side of the diagnostic connector.
Momentarily ground the opposite end of the jumper wire by connecting it to a good chassis ground for 1-2 seconds.
Grounding this wire should start the REAR ABS lamp flashing. If grounding this wire does not start the REAR ABS lamp flashing, go to System Pre-Check Test D, Yellow REAR ABS Light Self-Check OK, but No Diagnostic Trouble Code When Diagnostics started .
CAUTION: Care must be taken to connect only the black/orange stripe wire to ground. Connecting the mating connector wire to ground will result in a blown fuse.
The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates diagnostic trouble Code 4. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. This code will be used later for system repair instructions, it should be written down for future use. A diagnostic trouble code of 16 will be obtained when the module detects normal system operation.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), Erasing
The last step of the System Pre-Check always includes clearing the keep-alive memory (KAM). To do this, simply turn off the ignition while the diagnostic connector halves are separated as described in the procedures for obtaining the diagnostic trouble code above, after which the diagnostic connector should be reassembled to provide KAM power to the anti-lock electronic control module. If at this time a valid code has been obtained, go to the appropriate pinpoint test for that code.
additional RABS info
How To: Solve ABS problems on a 1995 Aerostar. - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®
you can pull guesses out of a rabbit's hat all day long and not solve Ford RABS problems. requires in depth step by step troubleshooting/analysis
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With the hard start problem read the PCM codes first and please post here. '92 has OBDI EECIV PCM system electronics.
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
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Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Thank you for the info, I'll go do some checking soon. At this point, I have not found this ABS testing connector, but I'll take another look.
Definatelly going to test out that rear ABS sensor, as told.
I forgot to mention, that service engine light is not showing that it has got a code. Bulb itself works, when turning to RUN position then it lights, but goes out right after the start. Could it still have codes to show?
Btw, now I remember that there have also been an engine stumbling in drive too. when the vehicle is moving, then sometimes it starts to stumble and shake when I press and hold the gas very lightly. No power then, and even charging meter dropps, revs drop so much. In that case, when I let the gas go, then it will keep idling normally, and when I push more gas then it would pull the car and be normal also. Could it be connected with EGR problem? Should the sticking EGR give a code?
It is a 3.0 engine.
Definatelly going to test out that rear ABS sensor, as told.
I forgot to mention, that service engine light is not showing that it has got a code. Bulb itself works, when turning to RUN position then it lights, but goes out right after the start. Could it still have codes to show?
Btw, now I remember that there have also been an engine stumbling in drive too. when the vehicle is moving, then sometimes it starts to stumble and shake when I press and hold the gas very lightly. No power then, and even charging meter dropps, revs drop so much. In that case, when I let the gas go, then it will keep idling normally, and when I push more gas then it would pull the car and be normal also. Could it be connected with EGR problem? Should the sticking EGR give a code?
It is a 3.0 engine.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
96_4wdr: I'm always confused by the RED Brake dash light Tests: do these tests have to be performed with the emergency brake ENGAGED/ON? or released/off? (the service manual does not clarify this).
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Thank you for the info, I'll go do some checking soon. At this point, I have not found this ABS testing connector, but I'll take another look.
Definatelly going to test out that rear ABS sensor, as told.
I forgot to mention, that service engine light is not showing that it has got a code. Bulb itself works, when turning to RUN position then it lights, but goes out right after the start. Could it still have codes to show?
Btw, now I remember that there have also been an engine stumbling in drive too. when the vehicle is moving, then sometimes it starts to stumble and shake when I press and hold the gas very lightly. No power then, and even charging meter dropps, revs drop so much. In that case, when I let the gas go, then it will keep idling normally, and when I push more gas then it would pull the car and be normal also. Could it be connected with EGR problem? Should the sticking EGR give a code?
It is a 3.0 engine.
Definatelly going to test out that rear ABS sensor, as told.
I forgot to mention, that service engine light is not showing that it has got a code. Bulb itself works, when turning to RUN position then it lights, but goes out right after the start. Could it still have codes to show?
Btw, now I remember that there have also been an engine stumbling in drive too. when the vehicle is moving, then sometimes it starts to stumble and shake when I press and hold the gas very lightly. No power then, and even charging meter dropps, revs drop so much. In that case, when I let the gas go, then it will keep idling normally, and when I push more gas then it would pull the car and be normal also. Could it be connected with EGR problem? Should the sticking EGR give a code?
It is a 3.0 engine.
Eng light. A vacuum leak can cause the same problems. Let us know what you find.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
here's what I discovered with my RABS:
turn the engine ON with the foot pressing on the brake pedal, RABS light stays OFF.
remove the foot from the brake pedal, RABS light comes back ON.
what does this prove? I have no clue. But it is trying to tell me something. The Brake Pedal Switch talking to me?
turn the engine ON with the foot pressing on the brake pedal, RABS light stays OFF.
remove the foot from the brake pedal, RABS light comes back ON.
what does this prove? I have no clue. But it is trying to tell me something. The Brake Pedal Switch talking to me?