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hey guys, ive recently installed a set of dual electric fans in my 89 bronco, i dont wanna use the stupid fan thermostat from autozone as i dont like the idea of sticking a probe in my upper rad hose, im running a 180 degree thermostat and ive postition the fan switch at the top of the thermostat houseing (brand new houseing comes with a 3/8 NPT threaded hole at the top), can you guys suggest a thermal ground switch that will control my fans proper, has to be a thermal ground switch as thats the way i currently have it set up
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Go to the $20 range and look from there up in price. You'll find plenty of just switches to kits. Some are pass through switches and some are grounding switches. Search Results for Fan switch - Mobile SummitRacing.com
You reminded me that I needed to dig something up I had previously read about using the Diesel Tempo switch. Found it....
i went with a fan switch from a 84 tempo diesel,its 1/2 thread and said to kick on at 217 and or off at 192.i found it kicks on at 212 and off at 195.it works perfect and doesnt run the fan all the time.217 is a little higher than i would like but is a perfect temp for a dd.i also have an override switch in the cab so i can manually turn it on if i want to keep it cooler.i also used a relay for a 92 explorer blower motor,50 amp with 8 gauge wire and a 30 amp circuit breaker.
okay so i think ive determined the problem, according to napas site the switch i have should turn on between 204-220 degrees, i think my location is the problem, im going to relocate the switch to the lower rad hose via a home made pipe adapter and gournd it with a 10 gauge grounding strap the temp coming out of the hot side should be just enough to operate the fans properly, ill use an hego sensor bung to plumb it up i will be posting all the specs of what i did seeing as how im haveing problems finding info online this should help the other guys putting electric fans in their truck or bronco a breeze... pun intended
and judeging by what you posted dpdisxr4ti, that switch should do fine switch sw502
Except the one I indicated is sw532. Note that the one for the common gasoline engine Tempos has a lower strike temp - you want the one for the diesel. Been awhile since I've seen one of those in the junkyard.
It's much easier to find and plumb in an in-line fitting for 3/4" heater hose. I've grabbed a couple of the fittings at the junkyard from various Ford cars of the late 80's/early 90's.
If you care to do the research, I bought an electric fan kit from Interactive Systems and Technologies and the thermal switch they sold with their kit (you might be able to get just a switch from them or ask them where they get them) screws right into the top of the thermostat housing/water neck and has two wires come out of the top. I think mine is a 180* which turns on about 190* or so and it looks really clean in that location.
oh geeze i cant believe i made this mistake, the old t-stat was rated for 195, wich means my temp would regulate at about 210, i gotta put the old one back in mabey thats been the prob the whole time
okay i got the tempo switch, made my fitting and got it ready for tomorrow, hey silly question but would any of you guys know of a good spot to hook this into thats hot in run? right now ive got it hooked to my battery which means itll keep running after i kill the ignition, i dont wanna come out to a dead battery because the fans have been running the whole time i was in the store or something, so if you know of a good spot that either HOT in run or even GROUNDED only in run thatd help alot ill post the whole operation when im done and i know it works right
If you're running a relay then any power source will work.
A relay uses minimal power. You can use trigger power from anything that's key on power.
So if your switch is a 2 wire, its
Switched power to thermal switch
Thermal switch to relay 86 pin
Relay 85 pin grounded
If switch is a 1 wire then its for ground and relay 85 pin goes to temp switch instead.
GOT THE FANS WORKING!!! that tempo switch works like a charm, only thing that happened though was that the 30 amp fusible link popped, there was some corrosion on it when i found the relay box in the scrap yard so its off to the zone to get a new one tomorrow, should i get a 40 amp link? or will the 30 be ample? and i was asking where in the truck i could hook it to thats got power in key on only, but if the relay does draw minimal power then i guess the way i have it set up will be fine gotta say thanks you guys for helpin me out with this, only other problem is i have to reverse the poles on the fans so they pull not push
got a set of fans out of a first generation escape, made a home made cradle to mount them to my radiator
after several failed attempts i finally found a switch ( thank you DPDISXR4Ti) for a 1984 ford tempo diesel that works like a charm
i made a pipe adapter for my lower rad hose by welding a 1/2-14 NPT pipe bung to a scrap piece of exhaust pipe, i use my welder on its lowest setting and ran a bead on either end of the pipe to give the hose something to grip when the pipe clamps were tightened down.
i used my stock 195 degree thermostat and my stock thermostat houseing
it does run a lil hotter at idle, use to come to the "n" now it goes to the "o" in the normal bar (anything to worry about?), think the radiator cap may be leaking a lil coolant as i noticed some drips on the ground when parked today, will verify tomorrow where its coming from, and nip it in the bud.
You're fine
Being in the lower hose it will heat the whole radiator before turning on the fans.
Instead of turning on the fans when the tstat opens the first time (if it were in upper hose)
The O in normal isnt a big deal. Now if you said it was on N before and now it's on A I'd be tempted to figure out why.
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