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Injector line cap spacer

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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 03:19 PM
  #1  
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Injector line cap spacer

I've got a couple of injectors leak badly in my 88' E350 van. I decided to go ahead and replace the caps and return lines. On the second injector on the left bank (from the front, drivers side of van) there is some sort of plastic spacer between the hard line and the return line. It is threaded on top like the injector and has a hex nut at the bottom that screws on the the injector like the normal hard line. Anyone know what that is for? When I try and unscrew the hard line the plastic piece twists taking up all the torque, so I can't get the line off. Since its van I don't have much room and can only swing the wrench. Any ideas on what the grey spacer is and how to get the line off without breaking the spacer?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 03:42 PM
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Can you hold it in place with a wrench while you loosen the line, then remove it from the injector?

The pick-ups have a metal doohickey that goes between the injector line and the injector itself on the first injector, passenger side. I was told it has something to do with the timing, but I was also told vans don't have them. Don't know if what you're seeing is the van equivalent to this or.....?

Mike
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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From: terre haute IN
the cap on the injector should be 5/8 right? on the van engine i have been pulling apart, it had the same thing your talking about and it has a metal nut looking thing underneath it that screws onto the top of the injector. it also takes a 5/8 just double wrench it to keep the lower nut in place while you undo the line. then it should just come off with your fingers because you have already broke it loose... good luck hope this helps!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 03:51 PM
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its the factory timing adapter. Pickups have them on #1 and vans on #4

put a wrench on the spacer, and a wrench on injector nut.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 04:45 PM
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I was able to put wrenches on both ends and get it loose. My main question was what the part was in case I broke it. Timing adapter,eh. I had called the dealer and the the parts guy said he did not have anything like that in the parts manual but but since he sounded like he was born after my van was I doubt if he knew much from experience. Thanks for the quick help. This is the best car/truck site that I have ever been on.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 04:48 PM
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From: terre haute IN
i have one you can have for the cost of shipping if you need it, i wont be needing it.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 07:17 PM
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They are useless anyway, so if you can find a #4 injector line from a truck at the junk yard, you can eliminate it, but don"t just take it out or you will screw up the timing to that cylinder, or so I have heard. I would like to find a #1 line from a van for my truck so I can get rid of my timing adapter if anyone has one. It would making timing with the feret a little easier.

Good luck,

Mac.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 07:24 PM
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From: terre haute IN
Originally Posted by akamacgyver
I would like to find a #1 line from a van for my truck so I can get rid of my timing adapter if anyone has one. It would making timing with the feret a little easier.

Good luck,

Mac.
PM sent, i got ya bro!
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:06 PM
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I got all the return lines made up, the old lines off and the o-rings replaced. I pressed the caps and return lines in place but when I screw down the hard line it does not contact the cap like the it did before. I measured the caps and they are about .018 shorter and the caps can float up and down a bit. Is this OK? I got the lines from DCP. Are they reputable?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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You should be fine, the fuel is contained between the two O-rings on the injector. The injector lines on both my trucks don't contact the caps and one is two years plus into the last return line kit, and dry as a bone. Run it for a while, and look for pooling of fuel around the glow plugs.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 03:34 PM
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Got everything back together and fired it up. It leaks badly above and below the caps on the 5th and 7th cylinders. The rest seem OK. Where do I go from here? Do I replace the O-rings again on those injectors?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
try pushing down really firm on those two caps.they may not have fully seated.if they seat further,you'll know it.you'll feel it and maybe even hear it "snap".
make sure to press real firm on the others as well.when seated correctly,there's no mistaking it.having them lubed up with lots of petroleum jelly really helps.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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if you didn't lube the o-rings before installing them, you may have torn a couple of them while putting the caps on. if pressing down doesn't work, pull off the offensive caps and check the o-rings
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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Well this really sucks. I pulled the two caps that were leaking off, checked the o-rings and they looked good, put a bunch of Vaseline on them and put the caps back out and fired it up. I fired it up and everything looked good. I went a took it for a 15 minute trip came back and fuel was leaking all over the place. I pulled the engine cover and it looks like most of the caps are leaking. What brand of return line kit have people had good luck with? I hate to blame the kit but I don't know what else to do at this point. Any suggestions? I guess I can try and get a kit from Ford but I'm sure Its would be expensive. I got mine from DCP here is the link: Injector Installation & Return Line Line up to 1991, Diesel Care and Performance Inc
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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PM a guy on here named Russ. His screen name is typefour. He sells an awesome kit at a reasonable price. Definitely use lots of Vaseline. Also, do a search in this sub-forum for 'Zycam'. There's a trick involving the use of their bottle's cap that I've used with great results.

Mike
 
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