1970 Ranger XLT w/ 302

The other day I replaced the belts, then cranked her up. Oil started spewing on the ground. I located it was the oil pressure sending unit extension. I shut her down to tackle the next morning. I went right inside and ordered a new extension from CJ Pony Parts. 26 dollar part, no biggie, right? Well, read on.

Next morning, I move the PS pump out of the way, the start to wrench the extension off. It broke right off with no more than 5lbs of pressure on the twist. Threads still in the block.

Torx bit fit perfect in the hollow portion of the aluminum extension that remained on the block (nice and tight, no wiggle). Put the ratchet to it, didn't budge. Broke out the hammer cordless and started letting her (hammer drill) bang away. Didn't budge.

*Don't hurt me for the following*

A buddy came over with his Eazy Out set. Guess what? You got it. Now I had the aluminum extension broken flush in the block, and an eazy out broke flush in the aluminum.

Should have used heat. Didn't. Sorry.

Since I am not wanting to pull the motor for the repair, I spent hours carefully dremeling around the eazy out. Vacuum cleaner hose reduced to a vacuum line next to the hole to keep as much metal out of the hole as possible. Was able to get the damn tip of the Eazy Out into the vacuum. Perfect fit for the piece that I had left, so all of the Eazy Out should be out.

Now, where I need advice. What is left in the block are the (aluminum) threads embedded in the block. I could easily tap and tap and tap away to get it out, but feel I would mar the block threads, and it would take forever, and not guarantee because the motor is still in the truck and not every angle can be gotten to.

First question: Is there a bit/attachment I could use that would wear away the aluminum yet not ruining the cast iron portion of the threads? A certain type wire wheel, if you will, for the dremel? Brass, a soft steel, not as soft as aluminum, but moreso than Cast, or something else?

Second question: Should I just tap that bad boy, clean out the block with a vacuum and then a couple oil flushes before turning the motor over (after the new extension installed)?

Feel free to add any other advice other than simply answering the two questions. I am not above doing almost anything but pulling the motor, at this point.

Thanks,
Andy

 

My first bit of advice would be to use a title that describes your question. Do I understand you to say you have nothing left in the block other than threads inside the cast threads? If so start tapping away & run a tap in the hole when finished.

 

Pretty much. There is a little bulk left. Sorry, cell phone picture.


Another inquiry. Obviously, this area is post-filter. Anyone with motor expertise - A Vacuum through the the access hole, then a couple of oil flushes, should negate a lot of potential damage from any aluminum shavings, yes? no?

 

If when you drill or tap that hole you fill the lands of the drill or tap with wheel bearing grease, the grease will trap a lot of the metal chips and dust.

When you're done, I would leave the sending unit off and crank the engine to blow oil out the hole and eliminate metal pieces.

 

Grease I considered..

Cranking her up never crossed my mind. Great idea. Thanks.

 

I was thinking about just turning the engine with the starter or, if that doesn't do it, tape a 1/4" socket (so you don't drop it in the oil pan) onto a 1/4" drive extension, remove the distributor and turn the oil pump counterclockwise with a reversible electric drill. Don't think I'd want to run the engine with oil escaping and no oil pressure.