I have 2 15QT enclosed pans. As I previously stated these do not work IF you are trying to be neat about it. I prefer not to have a oil stained garage floor or driveway if I can help it.

Now, I will try your method of holding onto the plug to control oil flow next time, if I don't have a new valve of some sort.

The oil filter is another animal as well. I did just as you described but was not expecting as much oil that did come out after the filter was totally removed. My mistake was my bucket was not in place when this happened. The 5 gallon bucket does not leave you enough room to get your hand on the filter if the bucket is directly under it.

 

Not to be rude, but you say that the enclosed pan does not work if you are trying to be neat, but then you go on to say next time you will try holding the plug to control the flow
What I am saying is by holding the plug, you will be neat
I did it that way and didn't spill a drop.


Again, do NOT remove the filter until it has stopped dripping oil and then just unscrew it the rest of the way and pull it straight down.

Like the I said, you are overthinking.

 

I agree I don't think that the enclosed pans would work, if it were mine I would cut the top out. Mine is open so I can clean it up and use it for transmission oil, gear oil and anti-freeze. I have even used it as a small parts clean up pan. I also have a fairly large drip pan that I use when changing oil on my wife's 68 F250, of all things the drain plug drains on top of a cross member, it's a little hard to keep contained.

 

Yes, I can see where controlling the flow with your method would be neater. Less flow will allow the drain pan to accept the oil better instead of over flowing from the large fast volume of oil. I had to re-read your post

 

There you go. Just let the pan fill almost to the rim, push the plug back in, let the oil drain down, repeat. The whole oil/filter change took no more than 10 minutes.

 

Well at my advanced age of 64 I can't do an oil change in 10 minutes, however by not letting go of the drain plug I can do it with no mess. If you perform the oil change when the oil is just warm not hot you don't even have to worry about the hot oil on your fingers. I just buy a box of the cheap disposable rubber gloves and use them when doing oil changes.

 

A trick I learned on my '02 7.3 was after draining the oil to take an old Buck knife and punch a hold in the bottom of the oil filter to let it drain before taking it off. It sucks to loosen a filter and have hot oil run down the sides and thus down your arm. This prevents that from happening.

 

Here is how I changed the oil filter on my my 7.3. I cut the top off of a 2 liter soda btl, loosened filter just enough to loosen by hand, slipped soda btl over filter and loosened it more to let oil drain into soda btl, finished taking filter off leaving filter inside the 2 liter btl. It worked well for me. I haven't changed the oil on my 6.7l yet, but soon, so I'll see it this will work. My question, how much more oil drains out when the filter is completely removed?

 

Not enough to mess up your plan joe.

 

I bought one of these and they work great. Got wheels to roll around and can stand it up on end. Slides right under truck and holds multible oil changes..

Crude Control Oil Drain Pan - GEMPLER'S

 

Very cool. Not $110 cool, but cool none the less.

 

If you have a 2012 with a metal pan I would highly recommend the fumoto valve. I got the one with the 90 degree spout so it drains strait into your pan.I've always used these and they are awesome. I do miss the canister filter on my old 6.0. That was a super clean super easy oil change. But the 6.7 isn't bad with the valve and punching the filter.

http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f316l-valve.html

 

I use the open top (although I have a couple of the closed top too) from WalMart.

Walmart.com - Save money. Live better.