After a coating of oil (on myself) during the last oil change I took some time this evening and tried to improve on my method.

#1 - don't change the oil when the wind is blowing.

#2 - get ready for the shot of oil out the drain port when the plug comes out.

I use 5 gallon buckets for the waste oil. One for the oil pan and the other for the filter.

Before I would hold one bucket up, and tilt it in to where the drain port is. This time I figured I would elevate the bucket. In that process I thought about setting the bucket on an angle.

SO - the trick:

Set the front wheels about 5" off the ground (ramps, blocks, what have you) - set a block under the 5gal bucket so the lip is a hair under (maybe an inch) the oil pan. I used a 24" piece of 2x10 board on concrete blocks. Then set the rear end of the block higher than the front. In my case I stacked 2 concrete blocks (2-3" thick squares). This set the rear lip of the bucket higher than the drain port.

The plug is still easily accessed and there is no worry of the first few seconds of oil over-shooting the bucket. There is no juggling the plug in one hand and tipping the bucket with the other. I did hold on to the bucket just so it wouldn't slide or tip, but I probably don't have to - just extra precaution.

Now if I can figure out how to get all the oil to drain out of the filter before I twist it off... I use the nail/punch method that EpicCowlick describes. I poke the filter in the center of the bottom. After last time not draining all the way I poked the side of the filter after the filter stopped dripping. I did not get any more oil out of the side hole. When I went to twist off the filter oil started pouring around the seal once it was opened up. That's what I am trying to get around. Any ideas? I am pretty sure I am going through both casings (3" nail for the punch).

 

I'm wondering if these filters have a anti drain flap that is not allowing the oil to drain from the oil lines external to the filter. If so then this will explain why oil comes around the filter when removing even though the filter doesn't have any internal oil after punching.

 

Steve,
I just changed my oil this afternoon and I have the same problem of not being able to get all the oil out of the filter. This time I punched the center of the bottom and punched the side ~2" up from the bottom and it was still loaded with oil when I unscrewed it. I think I will cut my old filter open tomorrow and take a peek inside.

 

I believe you nailed it Troy. I just looked at mine and the punch penetrated the inner and outer chambers from the side and bottom. If you look at the top of the filter, it looks as if the outer holes are blocked by a rubber gasket that requires pressure to open. So the oil must flow outer to inner and the is trapped above the filter.
That's one thing, sorry, the only thing I miss about my 6.0

 

I unscrewed the filter just enough so that the oil was seeping out the sides(with a pan underneath). Then I let the oil drain from the filter and engine for about ten minutes. After that I finished unscrewing the filter and no mess. It may have taken me a little longer but it doesn't bother me.

 

I've been using the 5 gallon bucket for the last few oil changes and find this is the way to go. I also run the truck up on a double set of 2x8's which makes it easier to get the bucket under the truck. My problem is I seem to loose the plug off my socket wrench and have to fish it out of the bucket. To keep things clean on the garage floor I have precut pieces of heavy MIL plastic sheeting measuring about 6'x6' that goes down first.

The oil filter seems to be the universal problem. If I remember correctly, Epic used a sharpened large diameter punch on his filters. Perhaps a much larger hole does the job.

 

Maybe. What would block the smaller holes though? With the amount of oil that came out around the seal it was like the holes I poked weren't even there.

 

I have been taking a one gallon milk container and cutting the face out of it. I then hold it upside down by the handle when pulling the drain plug. It's kinda like a funnel with a back and sides on it. Works pretty good.

 

Have you considered a Fumoto Oil drain valve? Mine has a slight barb for a piece of tubing to connect to. You don't even have to get you 5 gallon bucket under the truck. Just run the tube out to the side and it will almost be a siphon effect. It'll also help with that initial shot of drained oil when you remove the plug.

http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-.../dp/B003T7XUE4

 

The fumoto on the plastic oil plug was just the plug with a fumoto sticking out.
It didn't seem like a good idea IMO.

Could be an idea for the new metal pan design though.

 

What is plastic? I'm confused as I have a 6.4.

 

Here's an example of the yellow plastic plug with a fumoto.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-a-fumoto.html

 

Watch Epic's video for a view of the factory 2011 oil plug.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...nge-video.html

 

Thanks Kper. I had no clue of the plastic and poly oil pan setup on the 6.7's. Good to know as I continue to debate over whether or not I should trade my 6.4 in.

Reps for taking the time to link the vid and pics.

 

Thanks. Keep in mind the 2012 switched back to a metal oil pan with metal plug.