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Rear Passenger Door

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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 11:37 PM
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Rear Passenger Door

as of today, every thing involving my rear passenger side door no longer works. when i bought the truck, the window didn't roll down, after a little while, the remote no longer unlocked the door, and now, it doesn't unlock with the button either, or pulling the lock up. am I going to have to pull the entire door panel off to get this stuff fixed, or is there an easier way?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 01:28 AM
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So you are saying that it will not unlock even if you pull up on the lock rod? If you were like me you will have to pull the rear seat to get the panel off so that way you can get into the lock linkages and pop them to open the door.

If you are referencing the fact that the window doesn't roll up or down with either your driver's side master switch, or the switch on the door then when you get open the door you need to look at the boot that leads from your cab to the door. If you open it I bet you will find some frayed or broken wires, which is what I found on my truck.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 12:00 AM
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i didn't want to make a new thread, so i'm bring this one back.

before i order a new window motor and lock motor, is it possible that the wiring is bad? if so, where should i look to confirm this?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 01:50 AM
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Yes. Look at the boot between your cab and rear doors. It is common to have wires, or a wire in there break. That happened on both of my cab doors and I had to butconnector them together and tape them up good.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:44 PM
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where is this wiring boot located? is it in the door?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Raleigh234
where is this wiring boot located? is it in the door?
When you open the rear door, it's down toward the bottom of the door where the wiring comes out of the cab and into the door. It might be easier to look at with the front door open.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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the door won't open, the lock motor won't budge so its locked permanently...
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 10:35 PM
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Open the front door and look down at the bottom of the rear door.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 10:38 PM
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sounds good. i'll take a look first thing tomorrow morning
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 01:04 AM
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Exactly what happened to mine. If you are not able to pull your lock rod up, or get it to open with the inside door handle you will have to pull the rear seat and then the door panel to get the door to open.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 10:22 AM
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I (finally) got to the boot, which was actually inside a little column in the cab. There was a black one and a grey one. i did some experimenting and figured out the grey one was for the speakers/stereo. i jiggled stuff around and looked at the wires, but everything was intact and the windows and the lock still aren't moving
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by glovemeister
Exactly what happened to mine. If you are not able to pull your lock rod up, or get it to open with the inside door handle you will have to pull the rear seat and then the door panel to get the door to open.
So what did you end up having to do to it after you got it apart? like why couldnt you just pull up on the rod?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 12:36 PM
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when i opened up the column, i reached in and pulled the boot out, inspected it, and the wiring through the bottom of the cab. there were some kinks, which i straightened out, disconnected them, and reconnected them. nothing happened. i ripped off some of the electrical tape to see if it was underneath that. nothing was wrong.

The door won't unlock because there isn't any power going to the lock motor. so i can't get it open again unless i pull the door panel off, and manually unlock the door.

Is there anything else i can look at? like is there a fuse that might be messed up, or would that affect more than just ONE door and window? EDIT: I yanked the fuse and put it back in, nothing changed. it controls all window motors and all door locks, so it was fine.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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its a circuitbreaker that runs the windows its #14 on my 97 and so are the locks its circuit breaker #12 they can get hot if you have a short. the drivers side did this on mine but i was able to pull up on the **** and unlock it. I ended up hosing the whole mechanism down with what ever spray lubricant i had on hand. but the lock popper ended up being the problem. it was hard to get it lubed so it would move again but I did. still need to replace that one because its not consistantly popping the lock. also the insulation on your wiring can look good but the wire could still be broke. every time you open that door you bend the wire back n forth...
what year is it?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 01:44 PM
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1997 Ford F-350 XLT, 71k miles
 
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