Engine Swap Advice?
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2009
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It didn't move in and out at all it moved up and down a little not much I didn't see any oil in the down pipe it doesn't move back very far so it's hard to tell. The stock air box is still in it the screws have a single slot in them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
Do I understand that the mechanic did a compression test on this truck and that is what is leading you to believe it is weak on the bottom end?
I am waiting for someone else to chime in here and offer their input, lol. I don't want to be solely responsible for telling you yes or no to swap it or fix it, you know?
Do this as a poor man's compression test. Start the truck and take the oil fill cap off. Turn it upside down and set it back on the opening in the valve cover. Does it "float" or blow off the hole or just sit there and kind of rattle off the engine from vibration?
I am waiting for someone else to chime in here and offer their input, lol. I don't want to be solely responsible for telling you yes or no to swap it or fix it, you know?
Do this as a poor man's compression test. Start the truck and take the oil fill cap off. Turn it upside down and set it back on the opening in the valve cover. Does it "float" or blow off the hole or just sit there and kind of rattle off the engine from vibration?
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Freshman User
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Not a compression test a crankcase pressure test which probably isn't near as good. I've done the blow by test before and it just sits there moves slightly from vibration. I backed out of buying the other engine I found a couple that where closer and much less expensive however they do have twice the mileage but if I don't have to replace it I won't but I do want to have a heathy 7.3 at the end of this that I can have some fun with
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
I guess I am not all that familiar with the crankcase pressure test. I have never heard of that one before, however if your engine passes the cap test, I say that we work on this engine and see if we can get it straightened out. Something else to think about its that the injectors from Jim are the same price whether you get them stock (90 cc) or Stage 1 (160 cc). That's a lot more fuel (more "fun" as you have said it) than stock. Of course then our next conversation will be about your transmission if it is an automatic, but hey, it will be fun!
If you take the fuel filter out is the filter yellow or is it all black? This is a good test for injector o-rings, which is another way that the truck can use oil. Another test is to drive it until it is warmed up to operating temperature and then with the transmission in park, rev the engine slowly to about 3,000 RPM. I know it sounds crazy, but if you have leaking injector o-rings it usually makes the engine stumble around 2,500 RPM. If it free revs to the electronically controlled redline (around 3,200), then your o-rings are likely not to fault.
If you take the fuel filter out is the filter yellow or is it all black? This is a good test for injector o-rings, which is another way that the truck can use oil. Another test is to drive it until it is warmed up to operating temperature and then with the transmission in park, rev the engine slowly to about 3,000 RPM. I know it sounds crazy, but if you have leaking injector o-rings it usually makes the engine stumble around 2,500 RPM. If it free revs to the electronically controlled redline (around 3,200), then your o-rings are likely not to fault.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,127
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From: Columbus, Oh
Some good info and help there Nate, reps tried but....
To the OP, agreed check the filter, but we really need to know compression values to give an accurate reading about the bottom end. These motors are very stout there and unless the maintenance has been neglected, you should be ok.
To the OP, agreed check the filter, but we really need to know compression values to give an accurate reading about the bottom end. These motors are very stout there and unless the maintenance has been neglected, you should be ok.
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Freshman User
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So with the 160cc injectors how bout fuel economy? It is a zf 5 spd manual will that take a beating? It already grinds into reverse sometimes. And I've already replaced the orings it only slowed the oil consumption a little bit. I took out the fuel filter once but it looked normal to me just looked like diesel fuel.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
With the 160cc injectors the power is there when you need it, but when you don't it doesn't use any more fuel than it normally would with stock injectors. But when you mash the skinny pedal you have about twice as much fuel on tap as a stock engine. In fact if your stock injectors are not spraying cleanly because they are fouled or just worn out, you may actually pick up some fuel economy with new (rebuilt) stage 1's. That is, after the first couple of tanks of fuel and you new-found heavy right foot wear off!
With the ZF5 you're in good shape. They take the power a lot better than the autos do. Only thing that you might see is some increased wear on your clutch, but with stage 1s I think you would likely be just fine.
It is possible that one of the o-rings was cut or rolled when the injectors were installed, that's why I ask. What kind of o-rings were they (where did you get them)? It isn't a bad idea to check the filter again just to be safe.
With the ZF5 you're in good shape. They take the power a lot better than the autos do. Only thing that you might see is some increased wear on your clutch, but with stage 1s I think you would likely be just fine.
It is possible that one of the o-rings was cut or rolled when the injectors were installed, that's why I ask. What kind of o-rings were they (where did you get them)? It isn't a bad idea to check the filter again just to be safe.
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Freshman User
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Haha it will probably take more than a couple tanks of fuel to wear off. I don't think I rolled or cut any of them I used orings from international. I think the book should say that when you take the oil drain plugs out you need to wait a while before you remove the injectors I ended with quite a bit of oil in the cylinders. I think it should also say when you purge the oil through the glow plug hole you should put the valve covers on with a few bolts to avoid the oil shower. Haha
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Freshman User
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I called Jim at rosewood today. Thinking I'm going to go that route. He was talking about putting a different down pipe on it? Chip and high pressure oil pump? Any recommendations? I'm mainly worried about the oil issue for now but I'd like to play with it some more. I also need to get a turbo fan what would be best there?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,127
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From: Columbus, Oh
If you're going with stage 1's, a must is intake, DP and tunes. I thought the stock 15* HPOP would run stage 1's but if Jim is telling you to upgrade then ill take him at his word. Going to throw out a few names that are recommended here for parts.
DP-Diamond eye, MBRP
HPOP-Terminator engineering T500, adrenaline
Chip-PHP, Tony Wildman, Brian's Truck Shop, Beans, DP tuner, just to name a few
DP-Diamond eye, MBRP
HPOP-Terminator engineering T500, adrenaline
Chip-PHP, Tony Wildman, Brian's Truck Shop, Beans, DP tuner, just to name a few
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
Todd has you pretty much covered there with the references. I would personally recommend the MBRP DP, the T500 HPOP and TW or DP Tuner for tunes, but that's just me. Any of those will serve you well. Talk to Jim about tunes too if you want to go that route as he sells chips and tunes (I want to say they're TW tunes, but Jim could say for sure).
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,127
Likes: 44
From: Columbus, Oh
Todd has you pretty much covered there with the references. I would personally recommend the MBRP DP, the T500 HPOP and TW or DP Tuner for tunes, but that's just me. Any of those will serve you well. Talk to Jim about tunes too if you want to go that route as he sells chips and tunes (I want to say they're TW tunes, but Jim could say for sure).