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I have a 2000 Excursion that lost the pinion bearing. I bought a new (used) axle to swap in. This is where my questions come from. The new axle came out of a 2001 F250 and there are some differences. The Excursion axle has a large shield (heat shield? ) on the passenger side. What is this for and do I need to swap it over?
My second question is about the pinion yoke. The Excursion yoke and driveshaft have round yokes that bolt to each other. The new axle just has the normal yoke that accepts the u joint and is held in with 2 straps. Can I just remove the disc part from my driveshaft and bolt it up? Or should I swap pinion yokes and reuse what I have? Has anyone done this swap before? Thank you in advance for the help. Harry
That shield is to block the hot air blown back across the exhaust system so you might need it (probably not) and I would avoid changing yokes if you can so you don't upset the preload on the bearings.
Unless you have experience with sterling axles do not disturb the gears as ExV10 said. I would just have a shop swap the yokes for you and replace the pinion seal.
I had a shop rebuild the spline on the driveshaft and replace the leaking pinion seal last spring. The mechanic told me then that the pinion bearing's where fine. Then 10,000 miles later the pinion yoke has a 1/4 inch of play in every direction. So I do not want to change the yokes or disturb the factory set up unless I have to.
Can I eliminate the double disc set up on my driveshaft and just slip them together?
I had a shop rebuild the spline on the driveshaft and replace the leaking pinion seal last spring. The mechanic told me then that the pinion bearing's where fine. Then 10,000 miles later the pinion yoke has a 1/4 inch of play in every direction. So I do not want to change the yokes or disturb the factory set up unless I have to.
Can I eliminate the double disc set up on my driveshaft and just slip them together?
It had play because it wasn't don't right. The only role of the crush sleeve is to keep the yoke nut tight. Due to the springiness of the sleeve and the wear on the 2 bearings it should have been tight when they approached the point of slight drag on the 2 bearings. If they couldn't attain that (nut is still too loose when then drag is attained) they should have at least used a retention compound in the nut plus staked the nut with a punch and used a new nut.
Lot's of stories about fixing the seals and then nut getting loose and it's all because they don't know what they are doing. Instead of trusting someone I would just follow this procedure and do it yourself. Just pry the seal out and beat a new one in.
I have a 2000 Excursion that lost the pinion bearing. I bought a new (used) axle to swap in. This is where my questions come from. The new axle came out of a 2001 F250 and there are some differences. The Excursion axle has a large shield (heat shield? ) on the passenger side. What is this for and do I need to swap it over?
My second question is about the pinion yoke. The Excursion yoke and driveshaft have round yokes that bolt to each other. The new axle just has the normal yoke that accepts the u joint and is held in with 2 straps. Can I just remove the disc part from my driveshaft and bolt it up? Or should I swap pinion yokes and reuse what I have? Has anyone done this swap before? Thank you in advance for the help. Harry
I swapped my stock axles 2000 Ex with 2002 F250 both front and rear. You will need new yokes and in my case the drive shaft had to shortened by about an inch. Dana 60 in the front and the F250 Sterling 10.5 in the rear.
For starters on the pinion nut loosening up, I think it's often due to the fact that people reuse the pinion nut. It is a one-time use item due to it's critical job. Best $8 you can invest in during the job.
If it was me I would go through a lot more trouble to make sure it is all in good shape before installing it. I just like to know it's perfect.
I'd...
Pull the axle shafts and inspect.
Pull the cover and check the backlash
Pull the carrier (4 bolts) and inspect all.
Pull the strap pinion yoke
Inspect the pinion bearings.
Replace the crush sleeve and pinion seal.
Put on the original yoke and use a new pinion nut.
You're talking about $35 worth of parts and a half a day's labor to make sure it's done right. Oh and an inch pound torque wrench.
Also, it's down right simple to replace all the seals, etc while it's out. Not so much once installed.
If I decided to have a shop do it, it would only be one heck of a reputable gear shop. I would not trust many people to diligently get the pre-load right.
Don't change the yokes, just take the plate off the u-joint and mount the driveshaft to the new yoke.
I removed the plate just as you said. I bought a strap kit with the bolts for $7 and installed the original driveshaft. The length is 1/8" longer then it was with the disc set up.
I really did not want to mess with the axle more than I had to since the axle only has 71,000 miles on it. We did remove the axle shafts and hubs. I needed to replace 2 damaged studs and I installed my parking brakes on the new axle as mine were in better shape. We also removed the diff cover cleaned everything and reinstalled the cover.
We added 75w140 and cleaned and painted the axle while it was out. My last cover had actually rusted thru and leaked so I did not want a repeat of that.
Thank you everyone for your responses!
For starters on the pinion nut loosening up, I think it's often due to the fact that people reuse the pinion nut. It is a one-time use item due to it's critical job. Best $8 you can invest in during the job.
If it was me I would go through a lot more trouble to make sure it is all in good shape before installing it. I just like to know it's perfect.
I'd...
Pull the axle shafts and inspect.
Pull the cover and check the backlash
Pull the carrier (4 bolts) and inspect all.
Pull the strap pinion yoke
Inspect the pinion bearings.
Replace the crush sleeve and pinion seal.
Put on the original yoke and use a new pinion nut.
You're talking about $35 worth of parts and a half a day's labor to make sure it's done right. Oh and an inch pound torque wrench.
Also, it's down right simple to replace all the seals, etc while it's out. Not so much once installed.
If I decided to have a shop do it, it would only be one heck of a reputable gear shop. I would not trust many people to diligently get the pre-load right.
That's not rocket science and you should do that yourself. The preload specs don't mean much especially on a used diff and the pre-load goes away anyway. You could go to a wrecking yard, wiggle all the yokes on their rack, and none would still have a pre-load. If you have a new crush sleeve and nut, you are in! Just tighten the nut down until there is a little drag and you are done.The only purpose of the sleeve is to keep the nut tight and the reason for the slight drag is so you will know the bearings are snug. They need to run snug for the ring and pinion mesh and the seal contact. They are still well in tolerance after the pre-load is gone and as long as the nut hasn't moved. Only when the nut starts backing out (lot's of action in there) is when you start having a problem. A new nut won't hurt anything but it is the crush sleeve that keeps the nut tight and there is always seizing compounds and staking the nut.
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