Hey guys, I'm not a regular up here, but I am in the diesel section for my obs. I have a question or two. I'm doing a few basic mods to a late 99 F250 for a guy in town. Young family, tows a camper, etc. Here is a list of things I'm doing. If there are any other fairly inexpensive things I should be doing, let me know. I know there aren't many differences in the 7.3's, but there are a few, along witht the truck differences. I'm not real familiar with the superduty trucks. I'm getting close to the budget I have, but if there is something I really should be doing while I'm working on it, please let me know. It's got 128k for miles.

4 inch exhaust
intake
srp1.1 hpop
glow plugs
fuel filter
beans 6 pos. chip
gauges
racerx valve body
cps
sending injectors in to rosewood for a stock rebuild

Thanks guys.

 

I'd get the stage 1 injectors since your getting a beans chip. They can tune the new chip for stage 1's and you will enjoy the power difference and possible mpg as well. Is this an early 99 or late? Build date before Dec. 99 or after.
Chet

 

I really want to stay with the split shots. I know we could make a little more power with stage ones, but I would rather stay stock in the injector area. The guy's truck I'm doing is not very mechanical, and we can get plenty of power out of these splits. I'd like to be able to remove the chip if needed and still run in stock form too.

It's a late 99 I think. Dec. 98 build date. It's got a wastgate, the E99 didn't have one, did it? Although when I glanced at it the other day for the first time, I thought it looked like the spyder was the smaller one. It's coming in my shop tomorrow morning, I'll find out for sure.

 

Is the turbo wheel something that should be changed, or is the stock one ok if its in good shape?

 

The hutch mod is sold at strictlydiesel here. It involves removing the fuel tank to remove the mixing chamber and slightly change how fuel is picked up. It also reroutes the return fuel line so it does not discharge right back to the suction. Here it is at strictly for 160$ plus shipping. This kit helps to remove the air that the stock pump sucks into the suction orings and removes the in tank suction strainers the replaces it with a external, SPIN ON filter/water seperator. You will hose clamp new fuel lines to the pump instead of leaky oring quick connects.
Driven Diesel Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit
While you have the tank out, cut off the filler tube within 3/4 to 1 inch of the neck to put more fuel in and the vent tube also.\
Turn the Crank Case Vent around and send the hose to atmosphere under the bed of the truck to keep the turbo and Intercooler pipes clear of the oil that gets deposited in them. You will need the orings and some 3/4 inch fuel/oil grade line or cheapy 3/4 inch hose and a 3/4 inch connector with 2 hose clamps to reroute the new line over the brake/master cylinder and then down along the frame to the rear of the truck. It keeps the nasty vent smell from getting into the vent system or windows if open. You can get that as a kit here for $45 but if you want mor than 6 foot of hose then you have to add more:
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - CCV Kit
The 6637 kit is here for $79. I know that is a good deal. The 6637 from NAPA is $70 This kit comes with a Pete's cover prefilter with RDP name:
Riffraff Diesel: RDP 6637 Filter Kit
I am sure you already know to keep the CPS a OEM item. Keep the original as a spare in the glove box of that truck if you know it works.
Remove the Exhaust back pressure tube and clean the tube, hole at manifold and fitting out. The Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor is right beside the CPS on the front of the engine behind the belt. It only takes about maybe 30 minutes to remove, clean with weed wacker line and replace. This mod/maint item will keep the fuel economy good.
I can come up with more but that will keep you ordering and busy for a little while. 50 cent mod and hutch mod are the most important in my opinion.
I didn't see the 50 cent mod so I had to post this. While you have the valve covers off for the fuel injectors you can do this mod as it only cost 50 cent to do. I really don't understand why you are having to reman your injectors with only 128k on the clock unless it is to get more power for the tuner being installed. That truck can do 250K miles without needing new or reman injectors.

In short. The 50 cent mod is done to keep the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) plugged in properly, clipped into place and a quarter(25 cent piece) placed under the plastic clip to keep it clipped. This is classic of the 7.3L problems. Now the details below. It KEEPS ALL INJECTORS and GLOW PLUGS plugged in and FIRING when necessary for under the valve cover HARNESS. You can be running on 3-7 cylinders based on wether the plugs under the valve covers are plugged in all the way or NOT. You can also have very hard starts from the glow plugs not being plugged in and only a few heating up.

You know I have to pop in here and ask if the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) connector has been looked at and the 50 cent mod done? 50 cent mod video here
2001 F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel, UVCH - YouTube

How to do it written down from my post in another thread. The video above is not my video but is a great training tool.

For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.
Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 gallon pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up whilist the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work. The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne

 

The red tubing leads to the actuator for the wastegate on top of the turbo. I have the early 99 and I definately have the smaller compressor and I do have a wastegate and a Exhaust Back Pressure VALVE.( I used to before I tore it out and replaced with a van pedestal to get rid of the bad oil leak at the EBPV Actuator in said pedestal) We do not have a Air Intake Heater(AIH) on the early 99. The spider connections are smaller. The inlet plenums are smaller so you will not be able to use the riffraff inlet plenum inserts. My early 99 had a NOV 99 build date. The turbo and pedestal are about 3/4 inch lower on the early 99 which makes it really hard to install the fuel pressure regulator crossover if you want to because you have to grind some of the connection at the up pipe to collector where the square plug for the fuel gallery is on the driver's side. FRx is used to send air trapped in fuel rails/gallerys so that the injectors do not have to spit the air and wear on the injector. I know it is a lot to read but I am very familiar with this platform and especially my e99

You could upgrade to a Stancor Glow plug relay also.

Dwayne

 

If your turbo wheel looks good as far as wear then do not replace. Mine was hammered due to my stock air intake box being cracked and Previous Owner still driving with cracked box.
Lots of oil on the compressor wheel and all the boots from the Crank Case Vent until you do the CCV mod I mentioned in above post.
Dwayne

 

Darin why the SPR1 ? And not save some cash and do a T500

 

Mike, I talked with Joey, and he said that most report its enough on 140cc splits with a chip, but they are real oil hogs I guess. He said it depends on injector condition also. I just figured I'd go with the srp1.

Thanks for all the information Dwayne. I'll know more tomorrow. He said there is an oil leak also, I'll find that too.

Wiring harnesses have already been changed once, but will be looked at again. The plan is to send in the injectors as it has a slight miss when cold. I will investigate before I get carried away, but that is the plan. A new cps has already been ordered from Clay.

 

I didn't know that.
You do the cold A/C mod

 

I have T500 with 140 splits. My tired injectors (265K) are due to be replaced in... oh... 4 hours, but they do suck the ICP down with my 80e tune at WOT. Before and after T500.

 

Thanks for reminding me. I have the vacuum line and fittings already. I got the vacuum line and fittings from Advance Auto because I could put my hands on the valve and fittings in the store. I purchased the ford ranger valve from ford. That is an item on the shelf that I forgot about. Hummmmm. I have more work to do.
Dwayne

 

OK, it is an EARLY 99. The injectors are pulled. Wiring is all good, and there is not a drop of anything in the valley, so that is good too. Turbo wheel looks good also.

 

The oil leak is probably coming from the pedestal where the rod come out to attach to the EBPV. The EBPV actuator in the turbo pedestal leaks but I don't know how many miles it usually starts leaking. Mine was terrible leak with 190K. I deleted valve and installed van pedestal and 470 ohm resistor
Options here are:
1. Rebuilding the EBPV actuator if it is the type that can be removed:
99-03 Turbo Pedestal EBPV Rebuild Kit
2. Cutting out the EBPV at the outlet of the turbo and purchasing a van pedestal for the early 99 which does not have the EBPV actuator. You will need to install a 470 ohm resistor in the EBPV solenoid to prevent the soft code. Here is the pedestal for the valve delete:
Garrett Turbo Pedestal - Early 99 Non-EBPV
Was the 50 cent mod already done or are you doing that?
Dwayne

 

Clean out the EBP Sensor tube on the front of the engine near the CPS. Edit: Remove elec connector from sensor, Unscrew sensor, use weed wacker line to clean out tube without removing tube if low miles on truck. High miles like 200k you will have to remove tube to clean it due to the carbon buildup being too much.
Dwayne