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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

332 code

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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 12:49 AM
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332 code

Hey guys,

I need a little help. I own a 95 F 150 with a 5.8W. Check engine light recently appeared after the engine warmed up. When I check the codes with the engine running, i get a 311 and 332. From some of the posts i've read the 332 code means the EGR is not opening as required. I have replaced the EGR valve but the light is still showing up. I also noticed that most of you are referring to a green vacuum tube that is connected to the EGR sensor. Here's where this gets interesting. On my truck the green vacuum tube on my truck was connected to the tin can looking thing and a red vacuum tube is connected to the EGR sensor with an "L" shaped boot and there was a piece of electrical tape covering the nipple on the EGR sensor under the L shaped boot.

What I want to know is should I have the green vacuum tube connected to the EGR sensor or the red one? And why is there tape on the nipple with the L shaped boot over it? When I remove the tape and place the L shaped boot over the nipple on the EGR sensor the truck runs very irratic.

I've tried placing the green vacuum tube over the nipple on the EGR sensor and the truck seems to run okay but I want to make sure I am placing the right tube in the right place. I appreciate the help. larry
 
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 02:57 AM
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Don't pick the part name out of the code description. Throwing parts at something is the worst and most expensive way to fix something. Post the WHOLE description of the code so we can tell you where to go. As for the vacuum hose routing, there should be a label on the hood telling you where they go. The routing can be different for these truck so it might not be the same as what one of ours would be.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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Thanks, I'll check the diagram.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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332 is for the EGR valve opening not detected. This can be because of a vacuum issue, an electrical issue, bad EVP, bad EGR solenoid, or bad EGR valve.

For you vacuum line, the green hose should connect the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve. The EGR solenoid should be connected to vacuum directly or through a vacuum reservoir.

There is information here about how to test these components

Fuel Injection Technical Library
 
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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I did review the vacuum diagram on the inside of the hood. It shows two EGR's, one with a + sign and one without. The one with a + sign does have a green vacuum hose going to it. As I mentioned before the guy I bought the truck from was running a red vacuum line to the egr valve sensor with a small piece of tape plugging the nipple on the egr valve. When I plug the green vacuum line into the egr valve it seems to idle good.

As I mentioned before he had the green hose going to the tin can looking thing and a red vacuum hose going to the egr valve. Now that I have placed the green hose on the egr valve I'm not sure where the red vacuum hose should go. It does not reach the tin can looking thing.

I guess I'll need to take it into a garage so they can interpret the vacuum hose diagram and put things back in the correct place.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ihatechevy
I did review the vacuum diagram on the inside of the hood. It shows two EGR's, one with a + sign and one without. The one with a + sign does have a green vacuum hose going to it. As I mentioned before the guy I bought the truck from was running a red vacuum line to the egr valve sensor with a small piece of tape plugging the nipple on the egr valve. When I plug the green vacuum line into the egr valve it seems to idle good.

As I mentioned before he had the green hose going to the tin can looking thing and a red vacuum hose going to the egr valve. Now that I have placed the green hose on the egr valve I'm not sure where the red vacuum hose should go. It does not reach the tin can looking thing.

I guess I'll need to take it into a garage so they can interpret the vacuum hose diagram and put things back in the correct place.

That is the last thing you want to do...........


Here is a photo with some hand drawn lines to illustrate what the vacuum routing should be:


It's a little rough but should solve some mystery here. The green line goes from the EGR Valve Regulator (EVR) to the EGR valve itself as illustrated above. The red vacuum line comes from the passenger side vacuum reservoir, usually referred to as the VRES on the VECI label, then goes on to supply vacuum to the supply side of the EVR. The vacuum supply for the VRES comes from the black line that runs from the vacuum tree on the manifold to the VRES. If the red line is too short that means someone else probably cut it.

Makes sense?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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This is awesome and excately what I need to ensure the vacuum lines are in the right place. Thanks, I'll get out and check out the hoses as soon as it stops raining. I'll get back with you as soon as I have a chance to get back under the hood. Thanks again!
 
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 11:18 PM
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I sincerely hope this will answer your questions.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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Hey guys, I am excited to report that the check engine light is out!!:-jammi It seems that both of the vacuum hoses that are routed to the tin can and the green hose to the EGR valve were all switched and going to the wrong places. Once i got them in the right places the CE light was gone.

Thanks to all of you for your willingness to share your time, experience and knowledge. If any of you guys are ever in the San Antonio area, shot me an email I'd like to buy you a beer or two. Larry
 
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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Dos cervezas por favor


Glad to see you got it going!
 
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