I'm currently working on a 1992 F150 4x2 with the 300 i6. It's got a 5 speed. It is a friend of mine's truck, so I'm not too sure of the type of life it's had. Well, he had stopped driving it about a month ago because the wheel bearings in the front were dying, so he drove his work truck. I offered to do the bearing, and asked him to get it to some dry cement to do it on. He regularly started the truck at least once a week to keep it going, but a week prior, he started it, and the throttle stuck. He shut it down, and went and hit the TB linkage with some white lithium grease.

Now, He jumps back in, and tries to crank it, but it won't start. He goes out and checks it out, and for some odd reason, the distributor was spinning freely.
He has me come check it out, and I look the engine over, and that appears like the only problem. I re-align the distributor, TDC and all, and torque it down. Still no crank. I try a few degrees in either direction. Nothing. I check the spark, and it is yellow. So I go and pick up new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and an ignition coil. Still a weak spark and no crank. I played with it for about 6 hours, completely baffled.

The only thing I seemed to find was a wire hanging, coming out of the loom that runs to the distributor and coil, that has 2 female prongs on it, which I have no idea where it connects.

This truck is an XL with no A/C, and my friend insists that it's some A/C wire. I'm skeptical on that. I can't figure this one out for the life of me. Any help at all as to why this thing isn't starting would be very helpful. I pulled the distributor, and it appears fine, spinning and all, so I am out of ideas. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

Did it shear the pin that holds the drive gear on the bottom of the dist shaft? It's possible that the broken pin is binding enough to keep you from twisting it by hand, but it may have slipped on the shaft. I think it's a roll pin, so see if you can see light all the way thru it. If you've already reinstalled it, just take the cap off and see if the rotor turns smoothly as it cranks.

Next would be to find out if the distributor is timed right. Pull the #1 spark plug and see if the rotor points to the #1 cap terminal when the piston comes up. Remember that the #1 piston will come up 180° out, also, because it's a 4-stroke cycle.

If the 2 wires are pink, then it's the SPOUT connector, and they should be shorted together normally. If not, post the colors or look in a Haynes manual wiring diagram.