Fuel Advice
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 47
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From: Marshall WI
Fuel Advice
So my 2000 F250 7.3,is leaking fuel. I have fuel filling up the pockets on top of the engine valley. I have a feeling that the fuel bowl drain o ring is the problem. The fuel lines in the valley are looking a little crispy as well. The truck has 202,000 miles on it. Besides the water pump,everything on the engine is original. Does anyone know where to get the fuel lines from? Ive also heard about people deleting their fuel bowls. What would the benefits be? Thanks in advance for any help offered.
you can't fix stupid!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,906
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if you want to delete the fuel bowl then you have to put another filter on it elsewhere.....it depends on what you want to spend but if it were me i would put a full regulated return on it so that would take care of your fuel line issue....and then add the bowl delete if you wanted to.....fuel systems can be pricey......i run a sumped takn into an airdog fp-100 to the main pump that has a piggybacked filter up to the engine through the regulated return.....its very nice to have a regulator to dial the pressure to where you want it and there is absolutely minimal air reaching my injectors if any at all.....the truck runs very quiet now.....again determine what you want to spend and go from there but i highly suggest an optimal fuel system on these trucks....youll notice the difference even on a bone stock rig.....the benefit to deleting the stock bowl is sometime the fuel bowl heater can short out or cause problems blowing the fuse and causing the whole truck to act funny...
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2012
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From: Walpole MA
The lines are probably not leaking. The drain valve IS probablly leaking and so are the fuel line o-rings. Best to get the fuel bowl re-seal kit from Ford or from aftermarket. Aside from the tool for removing the fuel line fittings,(wich you can get at any parts store) this job can be done with basic tools. I've done it twice on my 2000 7.3 in my driveway.
Ford kit # F81Z-9C065-AA. I would also, since you are there, doe the gasket and o-rings for the HP pump. Ford kit # 2C3Z-9G804-AB. Fuel line o-rings, cause now that you have the bowl off, are as follows (3) F4TZ-9N693-A and kit # F81Z-9C387-BA. That will cover you pretty good. If you wait a few, others will stop in with aftermarket kits as well. It's all about what your comfortable with. Good luck
Ford kit # F81Z-9C065-AA. I would also, since you are there, doe the gasket and o-rings for the HP pump. Ford kit # 2C3Z-9G804-AB. Fuel line o-rings, cause now that you have the bowl off, are as follows (3) F4TZ-9N693-A and kit # F81Z-9C387-BA. That will cover you pretty good. If you wait a few, others will stop in with aftermarket kits as well. It's all about what your comfortable with. Good luck
stinson 108-1
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,015
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From: south jersey
Your fuel lines in the valley are hard lines. The pressure is about the same pre and post filter if your filter is clean. Mine is 65lbs. You can get real good, complete reseal kits from Riff Raff or Diesel O-Rings. Most guys here use them.
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stinson 108-1
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: south jersey
One more thing, with 200k and being 12yrs old you should be thinking of hpop lines. If they go you'll be dead in the water. Also your fuel leak could be the clamp that holds the pass. side (hard) fuel line. The line gets a hole in it from rubbing in the clamp. Its to the left of the turbo down near the valve cover. Check it. thats the only fuel line up on the engine you would likely need.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 47
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From: Marshall WI
Fuel Valley
Anyone know where to get the fuel lines,as well as the high pressure oil lines? Or could the fuel lines be made and different fittings be used like from the hundreds of brake line fittings and bulk brake line that I have so much of in my garage? Just thought Id ask.
stinson 108-1
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 8
From: south jersey
You can get hpop lines from Clay at Riff Raff Diesel, He may also have the passenger side fuel line. Both fuel lines are hard lines. Why would you want to replace them. Have you confirmed they are your leak?
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
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From: North of Greenville
I would contact your local International/Navistar dealer on the HPOP lines. They are much cheaper than any other source I've found at something like $75-$85 each. These from Navistar are also steel braided with the wire loom cover to protect anything adjacent to the lines from rubbing wear.
One more thought. The passenger side hard fuel line between the fuel bowl and passenger side fuel rail is known to crack and leak at the edge of the clamp which holds it to the engine block. This line is about $36 from Tousley Ford.
My cross-reference resource indicates that the International part number for the passenger side fuel line is 1831243C92, and it might be cheaper at the International dealer as well, but you would have to confirm the part number with International.
Here is a thread with the HPOP Navistar part numbers (see post #2)... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-from-the.html
Here is a link to Tousley Ford for the hard fuel line... Ford Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot
Hope this helps.
One more thought. The passenger side hard fuel line between the fuel bowl and passenger side fuel rail is known to crack and leak at the edge of the clamp which holds it to the engine block. This line is about $36 from Tousley Ford.
My cross-reference resource indicates that the International part number for the passenger side fuel line is 1831243C92, and it might be cheaper at the International dealer as well, but you would have to confirm the part number with International.
Here is a thread with the HPOP Navistar part numbers (see post #2)... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-from-the.html
Here is a link to Tousley Ford for the hard fuel line... Ford Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot
Hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Marshall WI
Thanks Guys. The major leak was the fuel bowl drain valve o rings. Since Ive stopped that leak and cleaned the valley,my hard lines are seeping fuel through the growing rust formations that are built up on the lines(passenger side line in particular) The reason I asked about the possible use of brake lines and compression fittings is because of the constant leaks in o ringed lines that I keep hearing about. Ive never had any leaks come up out of nowhere on any brake line connections on any vehicles ive ever owned. It seems to work pretty good on the Peterbilts that I work on every day.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,852
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I would not change the configuration of the fuel lines. It is REALLY EASY and really cheap to replace the viton sleeves at both ends of each line (driver and passenger side), and the stock configuration allows the lines to move a little bit so they are less prone to damage at the fittings from vibration.
I will second the call to have a look at the passenger fuel line where it gets clamped to the manifold. I just had a look at mine at 139k and it had been significantly rubbed down. You can easily take the clamp off, wrap the line with something, and put the clamp back on.
I will second the call to have a look at the passenger fuel line where it gets clamped to the manifold. I just had a look at mine at 139k and it had been significantly rubbed down. You can easily take the clamp off, wrap the line with something, and put the clamp back on.
