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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 11:24 PM
  #31  
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Well I've never had a problem with rear main seals on old engines, so I would look closely at it and if it seems undamaged (from removal of engine and bumping around during the swap) and still pliable, I would leave it.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 08:47 PM
  #32  
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I actually have a 74 Ford marine 302, only it's installed in my 56 F-100. We made some changes to it, such as bolting on a stock timing cover, and oil pan, and swapped the cam out for a mild street use. It made 270HP at 5K RPM on the dyno. If by chance you decide to get rid of the engine, check the heads first! They could be the '69 351W heads. They were very disirable at one time. It would be a shame to let those go with the engine.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 08:51 PM
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The heads have a 351 stamp in them. I will post a pic so ya'll can decifer. I am happy to get them to a goo home for a reasonable homage.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 11:53 PM
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Here is the pic of the 351 stamp... Is there something else needed to figure out what these are?



Assuming these are what you suspect, any idea of the value?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 11:55 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Do marine engines use a special flywheel or flexplate? They're usually direct drive to the gearbox so I kinda doubt it's actually a flywheel at all probably more of a flexplate type deal.. but I'm not boat engine expert either.
Definitely a flywheel...

 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 07:26 PM
  #36  
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Found my engine:



Spark plugs appear to go almost straight out:



Its a 98; hoped for newer but they were all gone.



Also found the timing cover a few rows down:





The crown vic had a fuel pump bolted onto the timing cover. Its an 84. Its really interesting how I have to cannibalize parts from all these different years to make this sucker work. So glad I dont have to get anything specially made for it though.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 05:30 AM
  #37  
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If those 351W heads have "L" shaped coolant ports on the intake side, those are the "good uns" Same sized ports and valves as the later GT40 heads. In about 76-77, they got "downsized" to 302 heads
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by baddad457
If those 351W heads have "L" shaped coolant ports on the intake side, those are the "good uns" Same sized ports and valves as the later GT40 heads. In about 76-77, they got "downsized" to 302 heads
Like this?:

 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 05:24 PM
  #39  
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Having a bad day... Got the 98 302 longblock on friday. Moments ago i went to bolt it onto the engine stand and this happened.



Sort of fuming... Need some advice. I dont want to rip another engine out at pnp.

Here is what I am thinking. Plz advise accordingly... Any suggestions are welcome.

The old block seem fine. A connecting rod bearing seized. Can I take the 'guts' out of this new block and put them in the old? My guess is with the crank, rods and pistons, yes. Cam... Not sure. Considering baddads last post, not sure if trying to incorporate the roller cams and gt40 heads will be of much advantage or not.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 05:42 PM
  #40  
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Buggered block

I would try to find a welder who could add a bit of metal to this, then redrill the bolt hole and file the weld even with the old surface. Then either retap to the original thread (7/16 NC) or drill oversize and just use a nut and bolt. Fitting an old cast iron bellhousing to the block would provide an excellent guide to transfer the hole location to the new welded area.

The dowels locate the bellhousing, so the bolt hole location is not critical so long as it is large enough to suit the nut and bolt that attach it to the bellhousing.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 08:27 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by crazy96863
Like this?:

Thats the one. They're keepers. As for that broken bolt hole, I'd ignore it. As long as you bolt the other 5 up solid, and the locating dowels are present, the missing bolt isn't going to be a problem. A welded repaired hole isn't going to add any strength.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 10:57 PM
  #42  
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Well this is interesting... I apparantly like to do things the hard way. Completely broke the original engine down. It wasnt in as bad of shape as I expected. All the bearings look to be in good shape. There was simply a lot of crap in and around the rings; some were worse than others. After some persuasion with a 4lb sledge & a block of wood, and a trip to urgent care, all the pistons tapped out. A good clean up, a honing, and new rings should correct the problem. Basically a complete rebuild. You can see the moisture than was lingering up in each cylinder as well as the crap on the pistons. There is no scoring on anything.

And then come to find out its probably not much of an issue to run it with the busted tab, I am going to have two good engines. Probably should have broken the old engine all the way down before heading to the jy. Ow well. Put to much effort in both to give either up.

I know it is a good time to replace bearings if I were to but if they are in good shape, is it neccessary? I will post pics.







 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 07:03 AM
  #43  
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What you're descibing is an overhaul, not a complete rebuild. I would replace the bearings while into it.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #44  
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I am not sure what i am going to do with the new engine I pulled but at this point I think it will be simply overhauling the old engine. Its sort of a matter of principal that product I just purchased failed. I will try to sell off those gt-40 heads though.

Two questions:

Whats the best material to clean up those pistons? I am thinking a brass brush or wheel.

What are the best rings to use? Iron, moly, or chrome?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:47 PM
  #45  
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I would try Scotch brite type pads and detergent and water to clean up the pistons. You can get a little more aggressive on the tops, but I wouldn't use a wire brush on the sides.
 
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