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1994 4x4 F150, removing front brake Rotors?

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Old 09-15-2012, 07:07 PM
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1994 4x4 F150, removing front brake Rotors?

I dunno if this is a stupid question or what, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the front rotors on my F150.


I know the hubs have to come out. (they are auto hubs if that makes a difference).



I took the cap off, witch is spring loaded, then a small cap looking thing fell out, then I noticed a big lock pin, so I pinched that, and took out I guess the guts of of the hub.

But that's as far as I can go, I can't see how the rest of the inside comes out, I noticed 4 notches around a round thing inside, looks like that thing needs to unscrew to go any further, so my question is, do I need some kind of special tool to remove that thing?

I tryed with a pair of needle noise to turn that thing, but won't move, if it even moves...
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:25 PM
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Kinda sounds like you didn't the clip at outer lip out yet, take it out then the lockout will slide out allowing access to the wheel bearing nut.




If no, not the problem or don't believe so let us know go from there.
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:34 PM
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Really hard to see what i'm looking at in that pic, it's to close up.

Is that far inside the hub? Or closer to the outside?
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:37 PM
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That is the hub on the VERY outside. That is what is under the dust cap. I assume you are in quite a bit further than that.

The nut YOU are seeing on your truck needs the special 4 prong socket, BUT there also may be a snap ring right in front of it buried in grease.
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
Really hard to see what i'm looking at in that pic, it's to close up.

Is that far inside the hub? Or closer to the outside?
I added a shot little more over view type, not so close up.
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:40 PM
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You need this;


Spindle Nut Socket, Dana 44

And do a search on 94 4x4 wheel bearings that should yield a few write ups with pics. You are close to getting them off, soulds like you are a c clip and a few lock nuts away
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
That is the hub on the VERY outside. That is what is under the dust cap. I assume you are in quite a bit further than that.

The nut YOU are seeing on your truck needs the special 4 prong socket, BUT there also may be a snap ring right in front of it buried in grease.
Ok yes taught so, that's what i'm seing, that I need a special 4 prong socket to get that last part out.
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
Ok yes taught so, that's what i'm seing, that I need a special 4 prong socket to get that last part out.
Miss read your post, your past that part to the wheel nut. Thought it odd too when you mentioned auto hub.....

And while you can remove that lock nut without the special socket, its much easier with it.
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:00 PM
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Anyone have any tips on removing that thing without that special tool? If not, I have a friend who i'm sure will have that kind of tool.
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
Anyone have any tips on removing that thing without that special tool? If not, I have a friend who i'm sure will have that kind of tool.
Me and my buddies? younger day we used hammer and drift long before we had any "special tool". Hey back then we where real young and cheap, Just didn't buy that sorta thing unless had to have it!

Rather spend our money on beer over special tools.....lots and lots of beer.

Use a suitable drift, large junk flat blade screwdriver smash the handle off of it so get solid hit. Use it and a hammer to turn the lock nut to break it loose.
Its a tight angle to get on because of the depth of the hub but works, it and inner nut will spin by hand (finger tips) once outer nut is loose. We put them back on same way.

Tool is much easier yes, have few of them now.
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by danr1
Me and my buddies? younger day we used hammer and drift long before we had any "special tool". Hey back then we where real young and cheap, Just didn't buy that sorta thing unless had to have it!

Rather spend our money on beer over special tools.....lots and lots of beer.

Use a suitable drift, large junk flat blade screwdriver smash the handle off of it so get solid hit. Use it and a hammer to turn the lock nut to break it loose.
Its a tight angle to get on because of the depth of the hub but works, it and inner nut will spin by hand (finger tips) once outer nut is loose. We put them back on same way.

Tool is much easier yes, have few of them now.
No doubt that might work but you wont be able to re-torque the wheel bearings properly and it will surely be harder than plunking down a measly 15 bux for the correct tool...Buy a manual and do some real research as well before you get much further or you will be back in there in 1000 miles replacing the bearings or maybe more and that will cost many times $15
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:27 PM
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Tool is WAY easier. And then you can reassemble and TORQUE it.

Most auto parts chain stores have a kit that they rent out if you dont want to buy it. It is a
4wd spindle socket set. You need the one in front row, second from left
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...content=value4
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:35 PM
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Don't "need" the tool to adjust bearing preload but yes it is easier.

We did it that way for couple years never had a problem, and back then couldn't buy the tool for what you can now.

And no now days wouldn't bother borrowing or renting one, just buy it. They are too cheap now days not to have one on hand.
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:37 PM
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Not for preload. But to tighten the outer nut to the inner nut. IIRC it is 200+ Ft/lbs/tq
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
Not for preload. But to tighten the outer nut to the inner nut. IIRC it is 200+ Ft/lbs/tq
Yea that too, couple good smacks with the hammer and drift did the job just fine.

Not saying its a pretty way to get it done but it does work. Tool is so much better and easier on the hand/fingers!

Back then we continually trashed u joints, lockouts, axle shafts differentials etc playing in the mud all the time. Hey we where young and beat the heck out of em constantly every time had a chance. Heck back then four wheel drive was new to us.
We used the hammer and drift method to take the nuts off and put them back on many a time and never suffered a failure by doing so. Not from that at least, one time buddy didn't know about the little pin in the locking washer on his Blazer, hidden in grease and his "first time". When he put it in he didn't line it up to a hole in the washer. Tightened the outer lock nut pushing that pin in flush with the face of the inner nut, yes his wheel bearings came loose.

He was quick to blame it on the hammer and drift thing, "I didn't get it tight enough like that" words to that effect was long time ago. I thought so too until asked if was sure the little pin alined with a hole, he said "what pin?". Looked at the inner nut sure enough found the pin pushed into its hole all the way. Showed him part missed, did it right had no problem. He claimed he knew how didn't need help. You know how kids are know everything even when don't!

Anyway OP asked how it could be done if it could be done, I simply answered explaining how we used to do it.
 


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