Truck is a '78 F150 XLT Ranger 4x4 with a short wheelbase flatbed. The bed's rear apron stops just after the edge of the two frame rails and is only about 8" in height from the top of the bed to the bottom of the apron.

I wanted to order a $155 Curt Class III hitch to have it finished and over with, but I don't want the hitch to stick out very far past the apron of the flatbed for aesthetic reasons. My other option was to take the truck to a fab shop and have them mock me up a custom unit. This will, by far, be the most expensive option, and I'd like to avoid it at all costs...

I guess what I'm asking is if anyone here has a Class III Curt hitch and might have a picture or two so that I can get a general idea of just how far behind the frame rails it might stick out.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

 

Just get the $155 hitch and mount it on the frame more forward than normal.... but it'll likely require dropping the fuel tank cuz ya won't be able to get a wrench in there.

 

Ahh, never thought that was an option. Thanks for the suggestion! Not too crazy about dropping the tank, but might not be too bad . . . Truck really needs a new tank any way. Lol.

 

And that's why we're here.

Two birds... one cartridge..

 

There are cartridges now!? . . . And to think I was still throwing stones at those dang birds!

 

And since you are dropping the tank, great time to clean it out or replace it all together or at least the sending unit. Also replace the wear pads on the bottom side of the tank straps, notorious rust area BTW. Old seat belt or ratchet strap material works great.

As far as the hitch, yes on HIO S suggestion in mounting it further fwd. Remember to take in account the length of the slide in receiver when figuring out its mount position.

Also remember the closer the trailer tongue it is to your truck the less sharp turning radious you will have.

On the blue truck (valley class IV) it is mounted about flush with the edge of the drop bumper.

And about any good local welding shop should be able to do this (see the flat bed pic/drop tow plate off the back bottom edge) to the back end of your flatbed for a little bit of nothing, so I would think.

MTS COMPANY, L.C. - Ford Pickup fuel tanks

 

another possibility may be to mount the hitch you want and just have the receiver part moved and reinforced where you want it.. partial fab work

 

Thanks for your suggestions!

We have a couple of welding/fab shops here locally, but with my work schedule, Saturday is really the only day I have to drop by, and I believe most of them are only open through the week now . . . Bummer.

I have another issue I discovered tonight that I need to iron out before I tackle the hitch, but I think I'm going to end up going with the Curt hitch and maybe mounting it in a more-forward position to accommodate the flatbed clearance.

Thanks for those great pictures, by the way!



Thanks for your suggestion as well!

Your idea was my very first thought, as I didn't think of mounting the hitch in a more-forward location. I still have this in the back of my head in case that doesn't iron out.

 

here's the one on the truck I just bought. Don't know what brand, but it looks like the style I see a lot.

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/KBrian/parts%20and%2089/1FC8F0B3-28EA-46CD-A765-323EB45BE1B1-13515-000004B1EB64966D.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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I can get better pix in the daylight

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/KBrian/parts%20and%2089/C7B9F0B9-AF2E-4D0C-B022-A8F136515162-14037-000004D69FFBC0EF.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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Looks like a "shin buster", or "knee knocker" brand......lol. Especially when the receiver tube is installed. JK

 

Its a piece of cake, well hard rock candy, but all in all its not that bad. Just remember to disconnect everything (elec connections-one plug/fuel line/filler neck/vent) first.

And have it siphoned as empty as you can, when I get the rear mount bolts removed I put a piece of tie wire to hold the strap in place there till I get the other one loose.

As you are laying under it with your feet fwd, drop the r/h hand side and slide the filler neck/vent tubes off, its a pita use a #4 flat carefully. You do not want to tear up those tubes, they are hard to locate.

 

Thanks for those pictures!

That's a doggone-tough looking hitch -- is it a Class V?



Thanks again! Your information is great!

 

I have no idea what class it is, I can't find anything on it anywhere. Hopefully before winter I'll get the whole bed/frame/hitch blasted and repainted to be nice and shiny.

yeah, I already foresee a few bruises from it, but I'm thinking I may buy one of those little bumper insert things,, maybe that will help.

 

Paint it a high vis color silver or road worker orange. If not for you, then for folks walking across a parking lot in the dark or when a guy tried to park behind you just a little closer.

Usually you either run a flat bed and have a drop plate or no drop plate and a factory hitch. But I have seen some crazy set up stuff every so often and go WFT?

 

I picked up a heavy duty step bumper-mounted receiver hitch at the flea market yesterday for $22.

I called up a pro-welder buddy of mine, and he's going to fab it up for me one Saturday when I'm off work. I plan on mounting the receiver tube flush with the back apron of the flatbed. I also plan on there not being a gap of any kind between the apron and the tube . . . Just mounted right against it. I'll get a deep-drop receiver to compensate for the height whenever I get my 31's or 33's mounted in the future . . .

I'll post some pictures when the project is completed. Thanks for the suggestions!