As title states, 2001 excursion 2wd no start.

A little history on the X. I bought it with 125k on it, came with an Edge Evo programmer on it, drove it for 50k without a hickup and put it in storage for about 1.5 years with 175k on the clock. At time of storage batteries were disconnected and Stanadyne fuel treatment added to tank. Charged batteries, had to reload Edge programmer Truck fired right up, let it warm up drove around block parked truck, came back a week later truck wouldn't start, no movement on tach changed CPS, truck fires up, wash trucks exterior during warm up, truck stalls, restart truck start drive home (about 10 miles) during last part of drive home truck starts to stumble feels like its starving for fuel. Park truck and will not start since, I have replaced the CPS with a spear and get 160 rpm during cranking on the Edge display, I have disconnected the ICP no start, plug is a little wet with oil. HOP has oil, changed fuel filter, checked fuel pump, disconnected line lift pump and blew air back into tank with fuel cap of to make sure in tank screen is not blocked. I don't have a good scanner, but now how to use a multimeter. Is there a way I can test the IPR? Can I eliminate the factory anti-theft? Any other recommendations?

 

I should add that the key fob will lock but not unlock the vehicle also the panic button on the key fob works

 

Can the Edge view the IPR or ICP?

Doesn't really sound like anti theft personally.

Are you getting a Wait to Start lamp at Key on?

 

Does it still have 2 year old fuel in it?

 

Wait to start light functions properly.
I get nothing out of the tail pipe, no puffs or smells.
I have read somewhere that the X pats can cause a no start but am not sure how to trouble shoot. Does the pats send a signal to the IDM?

I don't think fuel quality is the issue, I have bypassed the tank and sucked from a fuel can and still no change, checked the fuel at filter and its good.

I'm not new to diesels, I had a 88 F350, 96 Dodge 3500, 99 Dodge 3500 and currently own a 04 Dodge 3500 and a 83 300d. I just never spend much time with the X other than driving and regular filter changes.

 

[QUOTE=BigAlsPSD;12271782]Can the Edge view the IPR or ICP?

I don't know but i have not found that option on the display. I also don't know how to unload the chip, I have looked for that option on the display and not found anything, does anyone know if I can just unplug it or do I need to reflash the PCM?
How can I trouble shoot the IPR and IDM

 

I would focus on the ICP with oil in the connector. If it was me I would replace that sensor and spray out the other plug end. I would also suck all the old fuel out of the tank and put in about 5 or 10 gallons of new fuel. Understand that the fuel gallery/rails will still have the old fuel in them and will not recirc back to the tank unless you have a Fuel cross connect or Frx installed. That is not a stock item. The only way to get the old fuel out of the rail is to keep starting and blow it thru the injectors(if they are firing) or loosen the banjo fitting on the end of the head and let it drain. But then you have air in the fuel rail/gallery and all that air has to now move thru your injectors so you are in a catch 22. I would siphon out the old fuel from tank. Add few gallons of new. Crank over for 20 seconds to move fuel thru injectors(if the injectors are firing) and see where that gets you. You will need a minimum of 10-10.5 volts at the PCM while cranking to get the injectors to fire.
Without knowing what ICP, IPR are doing at start then you are stuck with replacing sensors easter egg style which cost oddles of dollars. THE ICP is leaking oil and I would recommend replacing it and I don't know many people on here that would not do the same.
Can you measure voltage from the accessory 12Volt plug while turning over the engine and tell us what that voltage is? Do not measure it at the battery as we need to see what the effective voltage is at the PCM while cranking. Again the injectors will not fire unless you have at least 10.0-10.5 volts minimum while cranking. Charge each battery individually and have them load tested at an auto parts store since they have been sitting in storage for so long. The batts may just be weak.

Concentrate on replacing the ICP from a ford dealer or like supplier and what voltage is while cranking.
Dwayne

 

Thanks Dwayne,
I'm getting 10 to 10.2 volts at acc plug during cranking.
are you suggesting batteries are to weak? I have not load tested them but each has been charged and was holding 12.8v 24 hours after charge.

 

I would charge each of the batteries independent of each other fully and then take them both to your auto parts store of choice to have them load tested. If you do not fully charge them seperately, you are wasting your time and fuel driving to the auto parts store doing a load test. This will verify if the batteries are good or not. OR you can get a jump from another HD truck that will help supply the rated voltage and current to see if this gets your truck started.
I would charge, check at auto parts store, replace both of them if one is bad or the other not so good one will pull down the new one. You need to get up to 10.5 volts sustained to the PCM to fire the injectors.

Charge and check the batteries and check back with what you see or have done. You are holding up my smoking break LOL. Get er done and let us know.
Dwayne

 

Not to be a pain but,

If I get 10.5v at the pcm and disconnect the ICP, clean fuel, then in theory the truck should fire unless my IPR is bad or hung up, is that correct?

 

Yes. Correct.

 

Keep track of wether you have white smoke when you are cranking while monitoring voltage also. Bet you didn't think we were going to multitask you huh? Let us know.

 

Only crank for 15-20secondsthe at a time. Wait four to five minutes for starter to cool. Do it again to get some good/new fuel to the injectors. Sorry so many posts but details are important.

 

PATS will cause the theft light to rapid flash on the dash.

If you turn the key on with the fuel drain valve open, are you getting a good pressurized stream of fuel coming out, or is low pressure or just draining the bowl? Seems like there's a screen inside the fuel pump.

 

Fuel supply appears good
Got 10.5v or better during crank
no puffs or smells of any kind at exhaust, with or without ICP
Theft light seems behave normal
wait to start appears normal

I'm leaning towards the IPR, the oil gauge on dash ramps up after a couple of rotations as to show that HOP is building pressure. Is there a way to test the IPR and rebuild or just clean and see what happens.

How can I confirm that the injectors are fireing, is there a way to check IDM signal? Friend claims this was wrong with his truck at the tune of 1400$ for a shop to fix.

Thanks for all the replies