Ok I'll try to mae a long story short. I'm moving 1600 miles in less then a week and my truck won't start. Here is what happened and what I hve done so far: Truck was running fine but a little hard to start so I put on a new return line kit. Truck started fine the next morning, started down the road and lost power, fuel filter light came on and truck stalled out. Later that day was able to get it started twice and get it to run long enough to get it off the road and in my yard. Put a new mechanical fuel pump on it and deleated the electric pump. After jump starting with tractor because I wore down the batteries I got it running, let it run for over an hour, ran great. Next morning wont start. Put the electric pump back on, took mechanical one off, started with in 10 seconds, drove to gas station and filled the aft tank (now both tanks are full) let it run for another half hour. Next morning it won't start and have not been able to get it started since. I have fuel to the filter, comes out of the bleed valve in a nice steady stream but no fuel to the injectors. Does not even try to start, not even a cough. Took line off to the fwd LH injector and cranked it over for 20 seconds and not one drop came out of the line. No visable leaks, there is power to the FSS because that is where I get power for m fuel pump relay and the pump is running.
Questions: Where is the fuel shut off solenoid located, is it in the IP? Can it be changed? What are the two things on top of the filter head that have wires going to them? One is red with a green strip and one is red with a white strip. Can the IP be changed without messing up the timing and if so, how is it done? I need to have this truck on the road ASAP! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

does she turn over real fast? are the glow plugs working?
you should be getting power for the e-pump from the battery (hooked to relay pin 87.battery line to 30)
the fss line should just go to open your relay (pin 86 w/ pin 85 going to ground.or visa versa.)
the lift pump should be blocked off.
then you'll no longer have any issues about getting fuel to your ip.key on = fuel.

 

Turns over fast enough that I can't count the revs, glow plugs are warm to the touch on the ends, WTS light stays on about 10-12seconds then plugs cycle. It was in the 90's yesterday, should have started without GP's. No smoke from tail pipe. I also filled the filter with sea foam and Diesel Clean. Had the filter off twice and both times it was full of fuel.

 

unhook the FSS line.the very top most solenoid on the ip.turn the key on,and connect/unhook it.do you hear a loud "click" ?
if not,maybe you burned up the fss line or something drawing power directly off it.
so run a 12v jump line from a battery,and touch it to the FSS terminal.hear the "click" now? if so.she'll start right up with the jumper left on.
edit.ha! perfect:
http://youtu.be/m4Zc1SzWDxU

 

The FSS wire has power, i tapped into it to power my relay for the fuel pump. I have the relay powered off the hot side of the start solenoid with an inline fuse, the FSS wire just turns the relay on and off. I'll run out to the truck and see if I can hear the FSS click. Be back in a few minutes.

 

if you don't hear a click,you can replace it.dunno how though.hopefully its just a matter of following your nose.may not be so easy (probably find out how by searching here.) here is one:
12V SHUT OFF SOLENOID FOR STANADYNE INJECTION PUMPS | eBay

 

Just checked to see if I could hear the FSS solenoid, when I get a spark when I plug and unplug the wire so it is getting power, its raining outside so I can't tell if the solenoid is clicking on and off or if its just the arcing of the wire.

 

Thanks for the link 250. Maybe the solenoid is bad, too many other noises to hear a distinct click. Is there anything else that could cause me not to get fuel at the injectors?

 

Ok I took the top of the injection pump off and had a look see inside, it had a sticky residue on everything and the inner workings were very stiff. I have everything free now but not sure how the FSS arm goes to put it back together. IF anyone knows how to do this please post. I got my new South Bend clutch yesterday but can't get it in the garage to change it.

 

Here, try this link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ip-manual.html

 

Thanks for the manual but it doen't show the FSS. The pump in the manual doen't have one. Anyone else have any ideas?

 

The 'click' you'll hear from a working FSS is very audible, you'll know if you hear it.

Don't put the top on without being sure the arm is in the right spot, or you'll have a runaway situation!

I just did a quick search, and here's a pic posted by OLDBULL8 on Oilburners:

Here's the link to the thread where it came from (post #5):
Fuel shut off solenoid replacement Stanadyne DB2

 

Thanks for the photo, that is what I needed. I also talked to a friend of mine that has been a diesel mechanic for years, he looked through his notes on the old IDI's and told me to energize the FSS as well when putting the top back on the IP. Another thing he said to do was keep a clip board handy after doing any work inside the IP the first time you start it so if things go bad and you need to shut it down quick, put the clip board over the intake, starving it of air will kill the engine.
The inside of my IP was all gummed up, I soaked it for a day and a half in Sea Foam then agitated it with a small brush. Then I sucked the Sea Foam and all the junk it worked loose out with a siringe, looks almost as good as a new one and the truck started right up. So if your on a tight budget like me before you trash an IP, soak it in Sea Foam and see what happens.

 

You could remove the return line from the top of the IP and check for fuel returning (trying to) to the tank. These things will shut down by pressurizing the housing. Stanadyne had a problem with some DB2 governor bushing going bad and putting shavings off that would plug the little valve at the top of the housing. Idf you don't get fuel out of the return port, take off the fitting and look at the check valve in it. It shoud be clean. You can clean it if there are shavings in it, but be aware that it needs replacing soon as the governor cage is going away which is not a good situation. As far as relpacing the FFS solenoid goes, it's an easy fix. It's been a while, but I believe that the arm pushes on a rod that does the work. Good luck.

PS:
If you can find a DB2 off of a GM 6.2, the FFS is the same.