So I just got done putting everything back together. I fixed the other leaks from the push rod cover and valve cover, cleaned a lot of gunk, painted rusted parts, replaced a lot of other gaskets, did a full tune up, among other things. Just started it for the first time after all this and now it seems I have a small leak, more like seeping from the head gasket just to the left of that support.

I think I may have damaged it while cleaning all the gunk and grime out of there, I dunno. Anyhow is there anything I can do short of replacing it? Maybe smear a little rtv in there. My wife will kill me if I start pulling everything out of there again, plus it's hunting season now. I checked the oil and it looked ok and the antifreeze looks ok. Just don't know what to do at this point; discouraged.

On a side note, it's idling pretty high and the check engine flashes occasionally. Is this just a consequence of not having timed it yet after reinstalling the distributor? The spout is pulled too. Also, my rear antilock light is one and wasn't when I started. I didn't do anything that would mess with the brakes that I can think of...any ideas?

 

If it's from the head gasket area, you didn't likely damage anything. It was seeping there before and you can now see it since you cleaned it up. Nothing much to do about it, just keep an eye on it and if it gets bad you'll need to pull the head.

How many miles on it? Lots? Don't worry about it til something starts pouring out.

 

Not really sure on miles. I'm guessing 204000, because it's at about 4k now and the title says 165000. However, they guy I bought it from said he just filled that mileage in when he bought it from someone. So who knows :-/. If I would have known I was going to put all these parts and time into it I probably wouldn't have paid him as much :-/

 

I wouldn't worry too much right now. If it runs fine, run it. Watch and see if it gets really bad. If it only seeps occasionally, then run it til something bad happens.

 

Gotcha thanks! Bad as in leaking worse or as in coolant getting in the oil and vice versa?

 

If you notice sometime internal, then get it looked at. If it only seeps/keeps wet on the outside then I wouldn't worry unless it starts pouring out.

 

Ah ok...any idea on the high idle? Just because it hasn't been timed yet?

 

Not really sure there. Shouldn't unless you have the timing really cranked up from where it should be. Check where it is at, if really high, turn it back down and the rpm should drop off.

Once you get the spout back in, see if the CEL goes out. If not, check for codes. Not sure what happened with antilock? Got water in something? Plug somewhere?

 

Right now I'm at 0* TDC. I'm hoping when I time it to where it should be that it will go down otherwise I probably have a vacuum or gasket leak somewhere I'm thinking.

 

0* is retarded so it should be slow not fast. You have a vacuum leak.

 

Lift that head up about 1 inch, slide out the old gasket siding back in a new one.

No need to take it completely apart, best part often time consuming part, no need to get into exhaust system at all deal with those rusty fasteners.

Doesn't take very long doing head gasket only on a 300 6, in and out very fast rather then allow it to continue to leak. It will do nothing but get worse.

Clear room on left side of engine to swap out the gasket.

 

@danr1
What all would I have remove to get to where I could just slide it in like this?

 

I haven't done the job on a EFI model but more then once on the carbed version.

You'd need remove what you have to to get the valve cover off, remove the head bolts, push rods, drain coolant name couple things minute.

Remove anything in the way directly adjacent to the head/block mating point level out, so as have enough room slide the old one out and new one in laying flat.

Kinda heavy head plus intake and exhaust manifolds so I used a couple 2x4" laying across the fenders and couple straps to lift and hold the head up about an inch so I could work in the gap. Just need enough room to lift the gasket clear of the aliment pins and slide it out, not even an inch. Cherry picker if have one handy, good sized tree branch and a come a long what have ya. Just so don't have to hold it while swapping gasket. Head gaskets use no sealer so no need have full access to surfaces, just be sure you get 100% of the old gasket out.

The exhaust you don't need mess with at all, might have to pull the distributor I don't recall off hand, might be low enough as is might just need remove the cap.
Don't recall everything on that side might be in the way, whatever it'd be its easily removed for enough clearance do the job. Spark plug wires, get em out of the way etc.

Head gasket is long and skinny, need the space the head takes up next to the head to do it no more then that.

When remove the old gasket be cautious of the heads aliment pins, don't let the gasket lift one out then drop it down cylinder when you slide the gasket out. Don't panic you can get it if happens, simply rotate motor slowly until piston brings it to the surface where you can fish it out put it back in place. Much easier if avoid whole ordeal to start with, put the new gasket in and make sure pins are where they are supposed to be before setting it back down.
IIRC has one pin at left rear, one at right front as viewed when standing in front of truck looking in at engine. Check with flash light first thing after raising head up.

 

Thanks for the info. So I can leave the lower intake manifold, injectors and everything on the passenger side in? You mention pushrods, can I remove those from the top after the valve cover is off, I don't need to mess with the push rod cover again do I? Am I going to be able to reuse all the gaskets I just replaced; intake manifold, throttle body, EGR, valve cover? Thanks again!

 

Yes don't disconnect anything or remove anything that isn't in the way or won't ride up with the head as is that small distance.

Yes you'll lift out the push rods after removing the valve cover, keep them in order, be sure each one goes back to the same position it was removed from.

Not a good idea to reuse any gasket, buy a head gasket kit or buy only the gaskets you need which evers cheaper.

Only reason you can get way with this technique, the head bolts are all accessible once you have removed the valve cover. None of them are down under the exhaust manifold for example. If they where the process wouldn't work, take much more time.