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The return line can have rubber gas line, like that little "fix". Not a high pressure line. The longer piece is likely factory as they did it like that.
You should be able to buy the cooler line and replace that portion.
So that is a legitimate fix or no? Can I just get a new section of rubber house and try and put it on there better or are you saying that line is high pressure and can't be fixed that way?
It is the low pressure, return side. There is a better fix, but rubber is okay. That longer line is likely factory, or just a replacement of what the factory had there originally.
The short piece could be upgraded, using some steel brake line. Screw new end into box, then flare cooling line and use union to attach together. Will look nicer and not leak.
Likely someone tried to get line off box, fitting was rusted and they twisted line off. Typical.
Cool thanks. I'll look into fixing it that way. Any idea what the part number is for that line if I end up just getting a replacement? Is there a website out there with schematics to look up part numbers?
Cool thanks. I'll look into fixing it that way. Any idea what the part number is for that line if I end up just getting a replacement? Is there a website out there with schematics to look up part numbers?
Just tell the parts hoise you need either the High Pressure Line, or Return Low Pressure line...And the normal stuff...Make, model, engine, etc...
IIRC, I paid about $50 for the High Pressure Side, and about $15 for the Low Pressure side....To simply replace them and forget about the crusty thin line drama...
*Please think to use Anti-Sieze on the threaded portions....It sure helps to prevent this in the future...
I go to advance auto parts website and put vehicle info in. Then search power steering return line. I get about 3 or 4 just rubber hoses and the same number metal lines. All say exact fit, and all the same brand so it's not like it's the same part. Reading the reviews for one they sayy it's like a foot short to. Confused...
Yea normal "repair" either rusted out right there or as suggested someone tried disconnecting it and the tube spun with the nut.
Mine rusted out there right above the nut no room clamp on section of hose. Rather then pay some 40 bucks for the stock type tube, metal changes to rubber anyway, I bought a brass barbed hose bib that fit the gear box and couple feet of fresh rubber line. Worked just fine, just as good as original better in fact the brass won't rot away and for a total of about 8 bucks, new stainless clamps too while I was at it.
I assume that long extra metal tubing had something to do with cooling the steering fluid. You don't have any problems with just a section of rubber hose there? The return tube is only like 15$; not worth it? The high pressure hose is the expensive one.
I assume that long extra metal tubing had something to do with cooling the steering fluid. You don't have any problems with just a section of rubber hose there? The return tube is only like 15$; not worth it? The high pressure hose is the expensive one.
Seams like they quoted the stock style line at 40 bucks, the coiled tube mounted to front of engine cross member acts as cooler.
I ran rubber hose from box to pump, ran it making all kinds of maneuvers with it checking the fluid temp with a gun.
Did the same maneuvers with the other truck, same truck but with its cooler intact. The fluid temp was about the same, couple degrees higher but that's about it. Might have been couple degrees cooler anyway, one without the cooler has the bigger tires.
Seams like fluid itself was 70deg? (aiming gun directly into reservoir at fluid), the gear box at its hottest point (right where the high pressure line exits) about the same. That was after lots of slow speed maneuvering lock to lock action, simulating plowing snow in a parking lot.
We had a discussion about it before, reason did the "test" see what if any effect it have removing it.
Great big tires? yea I don't know, maybe should have the cooler. Stock or just over? not much difference I could find.