As Flixden said...payload will be your issue. I have the HD package as well.

 

[quote=scottman70;12258306] They'll probably call tomorrow and offer more quote]

Hate to say it, but that just part of the game alot of dealers play nowadays, let them keep calling till you get the deal you want.

 

Yeah, back around 2008 I traded my 98 F150 on a 2001 Altima for gas mileage concerns. Altima was listed at 4500 and they said they couldnt even take my truck as a trade because they could not sell it. Next day they called and said they found someone interested in my truck. Still was not happy with the price of the Altima and told them that I was wanting a car around 3500 so I could pay cash. Two days later I got a call and said they would do 3500 and take my truck! Patience plays off good sometimes.

Altima got totalled and I was left to drive my wifes chevy tracker leftover after she got her new vehicle. About a year of driving that and I was tired of it and decided I wanted another Altima/Maxima with a max I'd pay of 16000. Found one at a dealer that before I could test drive it someone was in the room making a deal on it. So they had a Lexus for 20,000. They kept coming back with deals and I told them 16000 was the max I was going to pay for a car. About 6 times of going back to his manager he finally got it down to my price.

Best thing to do is set a price in your head that is reasonable and stick to it. Has worked for me on my last three deals.

Think I might have got a little off topic, sorry

 

I just traded my 98 f150 in on a 2012 XLT 163 HD with the 5.0. as far as trade value goes I looked it up on kelly, and NADA. when i talked to the dealer about price, their response was that they go by auction price, meaning they look at the price a similar vehicle to yours last sold for at dealer auctions any pay accordingly. that price was less than i wanted but Ford also had the $1000 trade assist which helped out. you usually can always get more selling yourself but its nice to get it overwith in one deal and not have to screw around trying to sell it yourself. good luck with your deal!

 

Funny you should say that. In the spring, I traded off my F250 6.2l for a F150 EB. This week was the first time I towed with the F150...and I towed the exact same trailer/load that I used to tow with the F250.... So... the magic results are:

1) The EB had no problem accelerating and holding speed with the trailer. Engine ran quiet and comfortable. I did check the trans temp and it was somewhat warmer than it usually is without a load.

2) The EB mileage for the tow was horrible! In fact... it was the same or slightly worse than what I used to get towing with the F250/6.2! I was going to create a post about that, just hadn't gotten around to it.

3) With the F150, sometimes I felt that the trailer was getting a bit squirrely. A little more sway back there than I ever felt with the F250...chalk it up to softer tires and lighter truck.

The main reason I went from a F250 to a 150 was that I wasn't towing much at all anymore and the 250 was just too much headache in the city (i.e. parking lots). I'm glad to have the 150 and the EB, but based on my results, I'd be back in a 250 if I was towing all the time.

 

i have to agree with beach_bob.
the F150 will do what you ask but if your doing it for long trips or in mountains i would go with the 6.2 SD f250.
for your tire question if the truck is rated for max tow the tires will hold what the truck will. ford wont put tires on it that are under rated just to much of a liability with that said you can get Lt's from dealer and have him take the p metric tires off. i would work it in to the deal as part of my due bill. good luck

 

I just went through something similar. I traded in a 2012 Ram 2500 crew cab diesel in perfect condition on an F150 screw 5.0.

Looked at Ram 1500s also as well as F150s. Dealers wanted to give me 32k for my truck, based on auction prices. I probably went to 8 or 9 dealers before one offered me 37.5k for my truck, and knocked 10k off msrp for the F150.

You'll probably have to hit multiple dealers like I did if you want to hold out for a certain trade-in price.

If they want to sell a truck they will work with you...

 

I'd go F150 with 6.2L and trade in the factory shipping tires for real 10 ply LTs.

 

So sounds to me like I will have to go with Load E tires and a set of air bags and probably some Rancho 9000xl shocks. Those items should get the F150 pretty well stabilized while towing 10K!

As far as pricing goes the dealer didn't call me at all! What a bunch of classless losers!!! Going to go to another dealer and moving on.... Just have to track down another CC 4x4 Ecoboost Max tow here in town! I researched my trade even further and there are hardly any 2500 Subs anywhere out here! That tells me they are not a dime a dozen and should sell pretty quickly so I may try to trade one more time and if that doesn't work I'll sell outright! I hate car shopping!!!

 

scottman i wish you good luck why not sale it out right. the dealer should be able to find one close buy and trade for it if its not on the lot already. only if its not a total whit elephant lol.

 

I am sure that problem could be addressed with the HD payload package - but now you really are moving closer to the 3/4 ton in terms of empty ride comfort. Not quite as rough though, I would say.

 

If you do this - it would cost a lot less if you'd order it with the HD paylaod package. You would not need different shocks or air bags, and the E rated tires are included as well.
At the end though, if I would plan on towing a 10K lbs toy hauler, I'd go with a truck that has a 10K+ lbs GVWR.

 

I prefer to trade it in because it cuts the sales tax by over half. I only have to pays sales tax on the difference between my trade value and the truck price. I actually have 2 trades so if I can get 27k between the 2 then I only pay sales tax on $8k. That's $800 vs. $3600 which is a savings of $2800. So if selling outright gains me $2800 it's a wash. I'd have to sell them and gain more than that to make more money. After crunching the numbers I'm thinking I won't gain enough more money to go through the trouble of selling outright.....

 

the P rated tires will hold the load, however the sidewalls will buldge alittle more and build heat quicker. In turn causing them to wear out quicker. you'd deffinately be better off with Lt rated tires. honestly i don't know why ford or anyother manufacturer use P rated tires on trucks and suv's. they don't offer a noticeable ride quality difference. or atleast not to me

 

Well guys.....last post for this thread from me. I visited the Dodge dealer today and I can get a new 2012 SLT 4x4 crew cab with a Cummins A/T for $37K before fees and they are treating me right with my trade ins. That being said I think a 2500 Cummins will be a massive improvement over the ecoboost while towing my trailer. Heading back there today to do the deal! Thanks for your input, I just cannot see buying a 1/2 ton when I can buy a 3/4 ton diesel for the same price!