Anyone used EZCool automotive insulation in your cab? Your feedback on performance and installation would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

I just dynamatted mine and I'd be curious what folks are using as insulation as well. I'm ecstatic about how the mat deadened the cabin space.

 

I'll be using Reflectics from Home Depot.

 

I used Eastwoods thermoacoustic in the entire cab of my panel. When you tap on the body it sounds more like a fiberglass panel now. Eastwood says you don't need any other insulation besides it. It installed very easy and sticks really well just roll it on. I used 6 kits for my panel and have 4 sheets left over.

 

Howdy,


I like that stuff!

But they say not to use up above in the roof..... I guess because, it melts the stuff when the sun shines on the roof?


They appear to have 2 different types of material...

Thermo-Coustic 5 pc

Item #12197


AND Eastwood Thermo-Coustic Sound Deadener Material

Item #12117

Which did you use?

 

I used the #12117,there was 9 pieces measuring 18"x31"/ kit. You have brought up some concerns with it not to be used overhead because nowhere did I see that written, I'll have to see if I still have one of the instruction sheets out in the shop.I hope this isn't something that was discovered after I bought it. I installed it last January but it hasn't been out in the sun yet but should see some next summer at which time I'll see if the floor is going to have a second layer.

 

Here's their site outlining how to use it...

Eastwood Thermo-Coustic Material | Sound Deadening Material | Automotive Sound Deadening Kit

I have been looking for stuff to apply in my cab. I want to have good insulation and sound deadening so I am interested in what works and what doesn't.

If that stuff does melt it might be a problem.

Just noticed that there's some reviews in the link above if you scroll down.

 

How about the stuff Mid Fifties sells?

 

There is a lot of misinformation about this topic and the products offered today. To address the OP question...I personally have not used the EZCool product but I can speak to the technology employed. This product with the closed cell foam and the aluminum facings is excellent for controlling radiated heat from the surfaces of an automotive body. It also reduces reflected noise from the interior and some external noise from outside the vehicle. It is lightweight and IMO gives some of the best bang for the buck.
Lots of people don't understand the differences in the products being sold today. I encourage everyone who is interested in this topic to go to Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information and read up on the various techniques and products that will address your needs.

 

They added the don't use overhead since I purchased it back in November of last year( installed January of this year), none of those reviews were there then. I may have just wasted $700 on a poor product I'll have to replace. I'm going to contact Eastwood about it not that it will likely do me any good. Better to know this now than after my interior is in and distroys something else.

 

Thanks for the info. Gosh there are a lot of ideas and choices of products. I can see how some of the advertising is borderline misleading and confuses some people including me. Need to keep it simple and reasonably priced. I'm not building a Roles Royce and don't have a budget for one. Need enough sound reduction and thermal insulation for a comfortable ride here in New England.
Charlie, the Sound Deadener Showdown site was very informative for sound reduction. It doesn't mention thermo properties.

 

turnjr, there are products on the market that fall into the category of "thermal barrier coatings"...my favorite is LizardSkin. If you are budget-minded, and who isn't these days, then you can make your own for a fraction of the cost. Two coats sprayed onto the inner surface of the cab and doors will reduce the thermal energy transferred through the skin by 40%. That means that if the surface of the roof is 100 degrees on the outside then it will only be 60 degrees on the inside. I spray my cabs with LizardSkin first, then apply a vibration dampner (Dynamat is my favorite) over only about 25% of the skin, then the closed cell foam, and finally the mass loaded vinyl. On the roof the only sound proofing I apply is some foam absorber to keep the reflected sound levels low. No need for sound proofing on the roof unless you drive under aircraft or other high noise sources overhead.

 

Yeah. If it got hot enough, you might have black "tar" dripping all over the place!

 

HaHa, I just got an email from thier tech department stating that they never had a problem with it being installed overhead and that they just added that they added that precaution in case you installed it wrong. I guess it's hard to admit to failure. I have some decisions to make before I go any further with my interior. I have some pieces left over and plan to do some tests just to see how it reacts.

 

That's a good idea. If you have a tin shed, put a piece in there, they get awfully hot.