I installed the "hanging pedals" from a 78 ford F-150 and used a power master/booster for brakes awhile ago. I'd planned to use the rods and levers that came with pedals to operate clutch, but after looking at amount of work and modifications i decided to go with a Hydrualic Clutch setup.

I looked at aftermarket kits, to much $$$. also i'm going for an older style resto-mod look. Didn't want plastic anything or billet alluminum etc...

so my search led me to the clutch setup used on 1960 to 68'ish Dodge W300's.

It's a 1 1/8" bore master and 1" slave, still going to require alittle modifications (starting making slave mounting bracket) but i'm thinking it will fit this build and hoping to work good.

 

sounds good and the color is right. carry on..

 

Do you know what the throw of the slave is and how that relates to what you need?
Make the MC pushrod adjustable for length so the freeplay can be adjusted. With a hydraulic clutch the last thing you want is any at rest pressure on the MC, even just the weight of the pedal, so you'll need a return spring on the pedal.

 

i've been doing some measuring and thinking, i do plan to make adjustable rods for both master and slave. (i'm hoping it has enough throw, changing the pivot point of the clutch "fork" is the only way i can think of to increasing it)

One problem i've already noticed is the clutch pedal itself has too much throw. I'm thinking about making some mechanic stops to limit travel.

I know to allow the throwout bearing to have some freeplay on the pressure plate when at rest (an adjustable slave rod will allow this)

but i'm unsure about "the last thing you want is any at rest pressure on the MC", i think MC piston should be allowed to return fully to get maximinum throw. but i was considering preventing full return of MC pistion to limit travel if i have too much.

another pic, because we like them.......

 

My concern was pressure on the throwout do to pressure and/or weight pressing on the MC would be like riding the clutch or brake, putting undue wear on the throwout bearing. I don't know you need two adjustable pushrods, but I guess it wouldn't hurt anything assuming you make sure both have free play. You definitely want stops on the pedal, you don't want to bottom out the MC at either end.

 

i understand, thanks for the concern. I mounted the slave, made a line and started to bleed everthing.

I'm sure it would be bad to over compress a pressure plate, i'm thinking about making some kind of "jackscrew" to slowly compress pressure plate so see what it takes release disc.

do you know of a better way to check for disengagement than put tranny in gear and compress fork until i can turn driveshaft by hand?

 

Does your bellhousing have an inspection cover?

 

no it doesn't, BUT i have made inpsection holes before.......

I've used a hole saw and them intalled a plug.

 

 

If you can measure it, the experts recommend .040 clearance with the clutch depressed.

 

Hmm, i'll see if i can get in there and check.

Was making some good progress until............the first time i tested pushing in the pedal. The firewall flexed way too much, now i did beef up where the brake/clutch pedal (master cylinder/booster) mount, and tied it into the steering column and dash (which is very rigid in these trucks)

But, not where the clutch master is mounted..........

so i decided to take a break and watch some football!

 

it could look better, but with firewall painted and everything socompleted i didn't wanna re-do anything...

you cant see, but the plate on firewall is tied to the brake booster mount with one bolt also, I didn't really like mounting the rod to bottom of dash, but i wanted to spot weld in place to ensure lenth was perfect. initial test seem good, time will tell