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Hold on, if the temp gauge is reading, the sender & gauge are likely ok, so don't throw a temp sender part at it, as thats not likely the problem.
Take the time to do a proper trouble shoot, get a positive test result, Then replace the troubled part!!!!
Right now you need to verify that the engine coolant temp really is jumping around & if so, is it an a trapped air bubble or randomly sticking open thermostat causing the problem.
If you didn't have the vehicles front end facing uphill when you last idled the engine with the radiator cap off, do the routine I posted above first & see how things go.
I'll try your burping method.
I don't have a CEL or any codes. I checked for those already.
What is the resistance that the sensor should be measuring at different temps?
I'll try your burping method.
I don't have a CEL or any codes. I checked for those already.
What is the resistance that the sensor should be measuring at different temps?
The gauge temp sensor to a good unpainted ground should read 10 ohms fully warmed up, 75 ohms cold.
My temp sensor is a little different than what you are describing.
I have a manifold on the front of my engine that the thermostat fits in. On this manifold are two sensors, one for the computer and the other for the gauge.
However, I would imagine that the resistance should be about the same.
As has been said the single wire temp sensor is the one for the dash temp gauge. The two wire sensor is for the computer & they have a different resistance profile.
Are you saying you have a plastic casting & that both sensors have two wires to them???? If so, disconnect one at a time & see which one causes the dash gauge to cease working & that'll be the one that operates the dash temp gauge.
I did that last night. I found which one is controlling the gauge.
Even if the resistances are different, the concept should be the same. The resistance goes down as the temperature goes up.
Thanks again for your help
I did that last night. I found which one is controlling the gauge.
Even if the resistances are different, the concept should be the same. The resistance goes down as the temperature goes up.
Thanks again for your help
OK, good trouble shooting. So if you have two wires to your gauge temp sensor, measure resistance across them to check the sensors value.
Somewhere I have a link to the computer engine temp sensor resistance profile, so when I find I'll post it, in case you want to check it too. EDIT: found it. http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28
Over the weekend I did your suggested steps to burp the coolant system. The truck worked good on the way to work this morning.
I will see how it does over the next few days.
Thanks
Over the weekend I did your suggested steps to burp the coolant system. The truck worked good on the way to work this morning.
I will see how it does over the next few days.
Thanks
OK, hopefully the fix will be that simple, let us know how it goes.
Another thought crossed my mind this morning. The OEM/Ford/Motorcraft thermostat has a built in air bypass valve that aids in burping the cooling system after a coolant refill, so if your thermostat has been replaced with an aftermarket design Without the air bypass valve, it'll make burping the system more difficult, as the engine would need to be at operating temp & the thermostat would have to be open for trapped air to get passed it & back to the radiator to be burped out & why burping the system with the vehicle front end uphill helps in that situation.
The OEM thermostat is also designed to fail in the Open position, so we don't suffer engine overheating.
So we'd do well to replace our thermostat with the OEM part, or a like design aftermarket part.
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