Is it possible to remove a 6.0 Powerstroke engine without removing the cab? I have all necessary equipment to remove the engine and perform the HG r&r just not a lift or anything strong enough at my shop to lift cab.
I already have head studs and have now blown a HG a cracked head 2 yrs later. I understand the boost/pressure can cause the heads to lift off the block surface but thought that head studs would fix that problem. What truly causes the HG failure and how can you monitor boost/pressure to try and maintain a safe level?

 

Were you seeing white smoke at cold start, smell antifreeze in exhaust? Do you still have a egr' cooler? Are you running a tuner?

 

You DO NOT need to lift the Cab to do Heads it can be done in the truck most just remove the Cover to the A/C Box for access to passengerside

If your truely set on pullen the Moter you can remove the front Clip and pull out the frontt

But Lots of folks done Heads and studs without cab or engine removal



Yes Boost pressure can and will lift the heads off the deck

you dont want to see anything over 28psi Boost on a stock setup not shure what there seeing on a tunned truck with ARP Studs but I assume you could push it little Higher Boost psi

You need Gauges to watch Boost PSI

I use a ScanGaugeII does Boost and a Ton More basicaly everything the PCM uses to calibrate the engine the SGII will pick up all those sensors and valves ect.....150.00$$$ great price its a digital gauge so you can have 25 gauges in it with 40+ gauges to pick from and can change whenever you want a diffrent gauge

Hows your Oil Cooler??? this would be a good time to throw one of those in if you need it. To see if its badd we watch ECT vs EOT deltas once again with a Gauge and again ScanGaugeII will cover that

So it looks like your on the right track with ARP studs but you can Leave the moter in vehicle to do it if you want thats how most use DIYers do it

Tousley Ford has Heads that are Loaded for 1K if you need one if its cracked head

Oh and USE OEM HeadGaskets they have had the Best success the Black Onyics SUCK lots of repeat failures with those

 

I didnt think it was possible to remove the heads since i already have head studs. Once or twice saw white smoke but degas is puking when truck is ran hard. Took it to the shop that performed the studs and they put pressure gauge in line with degas bottle and parked it stayed around 10-11 psi. Normal driving the gauge went to 15-16 psi and cap wouldnt puke, but get a load on it and it starts puking. Yes, i will change oil cooler at the same time, its 2 years old also. I still have some things to learn about diesels but why is there not a wastegate or something to keep it under 28 pounds boost? I think the cause was hypertech set on stage 3 while pulling 36 ft fifth wheel to work. I probably see 15-20k miles a year with a load, its loaded 85% of time since I have f250 and f150 to drive when I am home and not towing.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/974064-my-ride.html

here ya go a few pics out the front.

 

Oh I thought you had bought the studs and stilll need to install them I took that wrong

I see you had studs installed awhile back and now it acting like a blown Headgasket again that sound about right??????????????????????????????



What Headgaskets were used????? at the time studs went in

 

This truck had a motor put in at 139,000. I bought the truck with 17?,??? and had ARP studs and motorcraft gaskets installed. Deleted Egr cooler and replace oil cooler at the same time. It now has 206,000 miles Only problem since then was 2 injectors and pin hole leak in radiator last June/July. It has never ran hot that i know of. puking out of degas bottle and i just thought the cap had gone bad, new cap same problem. The mechanic I used is a Certified Ford-retired guy with good reputation i just dont have the money laying around for the labor end of the job----New baby due in 3-5 weeks just needed confirmation that i could remove engine without cab removal. R&R engine, heads and everything else is not new to me just 6.0 powerstroke

 

if you go to the link I put up above it will pretty much show you what you need to do.

 

One last question, where can i get a good tech manual to explain torque sequence, first startup after disassembly etc. ?

 

6.0L Bible Table of Contents

here^^^^^^^^^^


at page 84 torq values start

also look under unique service procedures

lots of good info here

 

also want to spin moter by hand before crank

Ask cheezit what position moter needs to be in when heads bolted back on so you dont bend a pushrod

maybe it just needs spun by hand IDK for shure but common to bend pushrod after work when trying to start

Cheezit knows the trick

 

Hammer, torch, it will come right out We also have files in PDF located in the Tech Folder to help you along.

 

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...d=&kevin=rules

The real Ford manuals, buy a 72 hour subscription for $11 and go through and save all the files to your computer. It has everything, every torque spec, sequence, assembly and disassembly instructions, diagnostic table, the full PC-ED manual with reference values, pretty much 100% of the information you'd need. It takes a couple hours to get everything, but it's very worth it.

 

Thank you to everyone that has posted, i will be getting started on it maybe this next weekend and will repost pics and progress.

 

The heads are off and there doesnt seem to be an obvious blown gasket. This truck only puked when pushed hard and my tech had a gauge hooked to it that showed pressure building in degas bottle "16 + psi" while driving normal. I will check the block for warpage tomorrow, but has anyone ever seen these gaskets leak in between the different layers? No obvious cracks going to have them checked for warpage and cracks also. Just wish it was really obvious so i could get it back together.Thanks