wax/polish?
wax/polish?
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 335
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX
wax/polish?
Plan the better part of a day if you want to go all the way, but I would recommend Meguiars.
For show-quality work, skip the consumer grade stuff and buy from their professional line. They have a numbered system and, to do it right, it is labor-intensive but well worth it. Their numbering system starts and 2 and runs through 34, beginning with a deep cleaner (2) and pure carnuba wax (26) and final inspection (34).
If your paint is new or in good shape to start with, you could probably go with #7 (swirl remover) or a #9 (glaze) and then, finally, 26 (pure carnuba wax--no cleaners--I think the paste version is #16). Once you get to the show, I think they have a spray bottle of #34 which is a wet dress to give you that final wet look.
If you have oxidation or deep halos, spiderwebbing or swirling, you might need to start with one of the lower number cleaners below #7, like #2--which is their fine cut cleaner. If you have tar or other contaminants, you might need to clay bar it.
A random orbital buffer is highly recommended unless you are in the mood for an intense upperbody workout. A rotary buffer is very effective, but don't use one if you are an amateur because too much pressure or poor technique will burn your paint, especially with a cleaner. Do your work in the shade. If you are using a buffer to apply the product(s), of course do not mix different products on the the same buffer head (i.e. switch out a new terry-cloth buffer shroud when you are applying the next product/wax).
Use lint-free towels to remove the polishes/wax. You can find these and buy them by the dozen at most autoparts stores. In a pinch, CLEAN, old T-shirts will work fine. Apply your #34 wet-dress at the show at the last minute and remove by hand.
For show-quality work, skip the consumer grade stuff and buy from their professional line. They have a numbered system and, to do it right, it is labor-intensive but well worth it. Their numbering system starts and 2 and runs through 34, beginning with a deep cleaner (2) and pure carnuba wax (26) and final inspection (34).
If your paint is new or in good shape to start with, you could probably go with #7 (swirl remover) or a #9 (glaze) and then, finally, 26 (pure carnuba wax--no cleaners--I think the paste version is #16). Once you get to the show, I think they have a spray bottle of #34 which is a wet dress to give you that final wet look.
If you have oxidation or deep halos, spiderwebbing or swirling, you might need to start with one of the lower number cleaners below #7, like #2--which is their fine cut cleaner. If you have tar or other contaminants, you might need to clay bar it.
A random orbital buffer is highly recommended unless you are in the mood for an intense upperbody workout. A rotary buffer is very effective, but don't use one if you are an amateur because too much pressure or poor technique will burn your paint, especially with a cleaner. Do your work in the shade. If you are using a buffer to apply the product(s), of course do not mix different products on the the same buffer head (i.e. switch out a new terry-cloth buffer shroud when you are applying the next product/wax).
Use lint-free towels to remove the polishes/wax. You can find these and buy them by the dozen at most autoparts stores. In a pinch, CLEAN, old T-shirts will work fine. Apply your #34 wet-dress at the show at the last minute and remove by hand.
Last edited by xanthias; May 14, 2003 at 03:13 PM.
