BAD ECM or DIST MODULE ???????
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 137
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From: Richmond, Va
Bad ECM or DIST Module ??????
Guy: I'm sure you have heard of these folks... Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor
They have always been top notch for me....
A man can never have too many sources!!!!!
You had better update your arrival dte to Tuesday,, Monday is Labor Day.....
They have always been top notch for me....
A man can never have too many sources!!!!!
You had better update your arrival dte to Tuesday,, Monday is Labor Day.....
Thankyou for the Link , I will Check it out
I wound up paying only $0.30 for the 2 47mfd 25V 105 Celsius , and $0.33 for the 10mfd 63V (same temp rating) , so this whole order with shipping was less than $6 , thats impressive in my opinion considering I had better quality as well , not to mention I will receive them in 2 business days most likely , I just did a search and found them , they had their game on too , they really knew what they were doing , I used to do allot of communications equipment in the day , but now all R&R modules and boards , so I have been out of circulation regarding suppliers now fo rmore than a few years , and we had locally for years a great store that you could get anything in called AVEC ELECTRONICS , the owner died and the family went into a war over it , they did re-open for a short while but was in the end reportedly sold and split for cash value , this place was to electronics and all associated tools and equipment for service , like Pleasants Hardware is to quality and selection in the hardware world , that crushed many of us and forced us to order , those were the days , when we could service ( actually replace the bad part instead of an entire board or module ) something and virtually anything we needed ( even vacuum tubes !) was 10 minutes away , and if they did not have it , they would get it there in 1-3 days !
Those were the days .
I will check that link out.
Guy
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Richmond, Va
Bad ECM or DIST Module ??????
I pulled the computer out of my 94 to check it out, years of plowing snow has left fender rotted away behind tire, has left it with a sizeable gap between inner and outer fender. Do not believe for a second it provides protection from water, a lot of it, from drenching the computer driving in rain/slush/snow etc. Just gonna move it to higher dryer location, likely last year for that truck anyway. Bungee Cord to top of under hood fuse box or similar.
While I had it in my hand I opened it, looked pretty good but yea one questionable cap. Wouldn't say it leaked no not yet but likely not far from it either by looks of things. I found was carbon trace from that caps positive leg leading across the board to the nearest diode leg about 3/8" long, carbon trace was about thin as a hair tad thicker maybe. Thought it was a "hair" unit I brushed finger crossed it it crumbled/disintegrated.
Had no signs of troubles, it run fine and fuel mileage "normal" for it. Thinking the damage I did find was from a little water intrusion. While I did find it was "dry" inside we are just coming out of drought conditions here, had plenty of long hot days to dry out. That and or perhaps my swapping batterys in it while running!
I took it to a local TV repair shop just up the road, he's replacing all three caps for 10 bucks plus price of caps. Figured what ta heck he's got a lot more experience with the board level type of repairs then I do = 10 bucks well spent. Told him order enough to do at least two of em, when hes done with that one I'll bring him the one out of my 95 nip this whole thing in the bud.
While I had it in my hand I opened it, looked pretty good but yea one questionable cap. Wouldn't say it leaked no not yet but likely not far from it either by looks of things. I found was carbon trace from that caps positive leg leading across the board to the nearest diode leg about 3/8" long, carbon trace was about thin as a hair tad thicker maybe. Thought it was a "hair" unit I brushed finger crossed it it crumbled/disintegrated.
Had no signs of troubles, it run fine and fuel mileage "normal" for it. Thinking the damage I did find was from a little water intrusion. While I did find it was "dry" inside we are just coming out of drought conditions here, had plenty of long hot days to dry out. That and or perhaps my swapping batterys in it while running!
I took it to a local TV repair shop just up the road, he's replacing all three caps for 10 bucks plus price of caps. Figured what ta heck he's got a lot more experience with the board level type of repairs then I do = 10 bucks well spent. Told him order enough to do at least two of em, when hes done with that one I'll bring him the one out of my 95 nip this whole thing in the bud.
Guy
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va
Bad ECM or DIST Module ??????
Guy: I'm sure you have heard of these folks... Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor
They have always been top notch for me....
A man can never have too many sources!!!!!
You had better update your arrival dte to Tuesday,, Monday is Labor Day.....
They have always been top notch for me....
A man can never have too many sources!!!!!
You had better update your arrival dte to Tuesday,, Monday is Labor Day.....
Oh MY ! LOL , I forgot all about Labor Day , ROFLOL , I can't get a break
Guy
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 137
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From: Richmond, Va
Bad ECM or DIST Module ??????
Guy
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va
Bad ECM or DIST Module ??????
Guy
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va
Bad ECM or DIST Module ??????
DRUM ROLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL !
It worked !
I got the caps late yesterday evening , mail did not get here until after 1830hrs , so I immediately replaced the caps , upon removal , I found they were are swelled and getting ready to rupture , and the one that had ruptured , I also found that one of the leads had , I guess , either corroded loose or maybe a controlled arcing or intermittent arcing burnt it or melted to the connection inside the cap , anyway , when I went to de-solder it was not connected to cap internally anymore .
I went this morning and re-installed it and immediately Scanned for codes , no codes !
I know there should not have been codes due to being disconnected but was ecstatic that it interfaced beautifully , very fast also , much faster than before , so then I took it for a 30 minute drive , and throttle was working great , no stumbling , no waning power issues , no hesitation even with A/C on
So I headed back home , and immediately scanned again , NO CODES !!!!!
Although I did run a KOER Test , and found 4 during that even though none are stored on ECM :
DTC 52 Power Steering Pressure Switch ( Easy Fix )
DTC 44 Thermactor Air System Fault ( No Clue ) Will look it up
DTC 33 EGR Fault /Not Closing Properly ( do not understand , no code on ECM for this and I have replaced the Valve , Sensor and EGR Vacuum Solenoid/Switch )
DTC 77 Operator Error during Dynamic Response Test / Wide Open Throttle not Sensed ( Have no Clue , I guess the scanner is telling on itself since it is the operator lol , but test never open throttle that far so maybe I am missing something or just a compatibility issue , I will have to resort to handbook , I may have had to move steering and open throttle though it did not direct me to do so )
So it would appear that the caps were not only the communication issue but the reason I was getting the map sensor fault as well , time will tell about the map sensor as it is original , but all other symptoms gone
Guy
It worked !
I got the caps late yesterday evening , mail did not get here until after 1830hrs , so I immediately replaced the caps , upon removal , I found they were are swelled and getting ready to rupture , and the one that had ruptured , I also found that one of the leads had , I guess , either corroded loose or maybe a controlled arcing or intermittent arcing burnt it or melted to the connection inside the cap , anyway , when I went to de-solder it was not connected to cap internally anymore .
I went this morning and re-installed it and immediately Scanned for codes , no codes !
I know there should not have been codes due to being disconnected but was ecstatic that it interfaced beautifully , very fast also , much faster than before , so then I took it for a 30 minute drive , and throttle was working great , no stumbling , no waning power issues , no hesitation even with A/C on
So I headed back home , and immediately scanned again , NO CODES !!!!!
Although I did run a KOER Test , and found 4 during that even though none are stored on ECM :
DTC 52 Power Steering Pressure Switch ( Easy Fix )
DTC 44 Thermactor Air System Fault ( No Clue ) Will look it up
DTC 33 EGR Fault /Not Closing Properly ( do not understand , no code on ECM for this and I have replaced the Valve , Sensor and EGR Vacuum Solenoid/Switch )
DTC 77 Operator Error during Dynamic Response Test / Wide Open Throttle not Sensed ( Have no Clue , I guess the scanner is telling on itself since it is the operator lol , but test never open throttle that far so maybe I am missing something or just a compatibility issue , I will have to resort to handbook , I may have had to move steering and open throttle though it did not direct me to do so )
So it would appear that the caps were not only the communication issue but the reason I was getting the map sensor fault as well , time will tell about the map sensor as it is original , but all other symptoms gone
Guy
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 660
Likes: 3
From: Northern California
DRUM ROLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL !
It worked !
I got the caps late yesterday evening , mail did not get here until after 1830hrs , so I immediately replaced the caps , upon removal , I found they were are swelled and getting ready to rupture , and the one that had ruptured , I also found that one of the leads had , I guess , either corroded loose or maybe a controlled arcing or intermittent arcing burnt it or melted to the connection inside the cap , anyway , when I went to de-solder it was not connected to cap internally anymore .
I went this morning and re-installed it and immediately Scanned for codes , no codes !
I know there should not have been codes due to being disconnected but was ecstatic that it interfaced beautifully , very fast also , much faster than before , so then I took it for a 30 minute drive , and throttle was working great , no stumbling , no waning power issues , no hesitation even with A/C on
So I headed back home , and immediately scanned again , NO CODES !!!!!
Although I did run a KOER Test , and found 4 during that even though none are stored on ECM :
DTC 52 Power Steering Pressure Switch ( Easy Fix )
DTC 44 Thermactor Air System Fault ( No Clue ) Will look it up
DTC 33 EGR Fault /Not Closing Properly ( do not understand , no code on ECM for this and I have replaced the Valve , Sensor and EGR Vacuum Solenoid/Switch )
DTC 77 Operator Error during Dynamic Response Test / Wide Open Throttle not Sensed ( Have no Clue , I guess the scanner is telling on itself since it is the operator lol , but test never open throttle that far so maybe I am missing something or just a compatibility issue , I will have to resort to handbook , I may have had to move steering and open throttle though it did not direct me to do so )
So it would appear that the caps were not only the communication issue but the reason I was getting the map sensor fault as well , time will tell about the map sensor as it is original , but all other symptoms gone
Guy
It worked !
I got the caps late yesterday evening , mail did not get here until after 1830hrs , so I immediately replaced the caps , upon removal , I found they were are swelled and getting ready to rupture , and the one that had ruptured , I also found that one of the leads had , I guess , either corroded loose or maybe a controlled arcing or intermittent arcing burnt it or melted to the connection inside the cap , anyway , when I went to de-solder it was not connected to cap internally anymore .
I went this morning and re-installed it and immediately Scanned for codes , no codes !
I know there should not have been codes due to being disconnected but was ecstatic that it interfaced beautifully , very fast also , much faster than before , so then I took it for a 30 minute drive , and throttle was working great , no stumbling , no waning power issues , no hesitation even with A/C on
So I headed back home , and immediately scanned again , NO CODES !!!!!
Although I did run a KOER Test , and found 4 during that even though none are stored on ECM :
DTC 52 Power Steering Pressure Switch ( Easy Fix )
DTC 44 Thermactor Air System Fault ( No Clue ) Will look it up
DTC 33 EGR Fault /Not Closing Properly ( do not understand , no code on ECM for this and I have replaced the Valve , Sensor and EGR Vacuum Solenoid/Switch )
DTC 77 Operator Error during Dynamic Response Test / Wide Open Throttle not Sensed ( Have no Clue , I guess the scanner is telling on itself since it is the operator lol , but test never open throttle that far so maybe I am missing something or just a compatibility issue , I will have to resort to handbook , I may have had to move steering and open throttle though it did not direct me to do so )
So it would appear that the caps were not only the communication issue but the reason I was getting the map sensor fault as well , time will tell about the map sensor as it is original , but all other symptoms gone
Guy
That's wonderful that your "journey" finally has come to an end.
All I can say is a BIG THANK YOU for providing the technical electronics knowledge (O2 sensor ....... ugh) in this thread.
I think we all learned a whole lot from this discussion.
Going way back.......do you see why initially I asked you if I may use your electronics knowledge to help in this thread.
I will say, you effectively "took the ball and ran with it" !!!!
Thank you Guy !!!!
Happy driving and enjoy your "new" truck !!!
Bob
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 137
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From: Richmond, Va
Bad ECM or DIST Module ??????
Man oh man Guy,
That's wonderful that your "journey" finally has come to an end.
All I can say is a BIG THANK YOU for providing the technical electronics knowledge (O2 sensor ....... ugh) in this thread.
I think we all learned a whole lot from this discussion.
Going way back.......do you see why initially I asked you if I may use your electronics knowledge to help in this thread.
I will say, you effectively "took the ball and ran with it" !!!!
Thank you Guy !!!!
Happy driving and enjoy your "new" truck !!!
Bob
That's wonderful that your "journey" finally has come to an end.
All I can say is a BIG THANK YOU for providing the technical electronics knowledge (O2 sensor ....... ugh) in this thread.
I think we all learned a whole lot from this discussion.
Going way back.......do you see why initially I asked you if I may use your electronics knowledge to help in this thread.
I will say, you effectively "took the ball and ran with it" !!!!
Thank you Guy !!!!
Happy driving and enjoy your "new" truck !!!
Bob
The EGR code it seems might be vacuum lines , I have replaced the EVP Sensor and Valve as well as Vacuum Solenoid/switch and there is no engine code either , so this may just be a automated test issue as well , but will check vacuum lines and see if there is a issue there , may be .
The one that worries me is the Thermactor which involves multiple controls in relation to the Air Pump and Check Valves , but then again why not a code if this is such a big issue , may just remove Air pump and associated controls , I have read that if you do that it has little if no effect on operation and will not generate codes either , have read several aticles stating that people have even passed emissions tests with removed
.The whole idea of the Air Pump is less than ignorant in my opinion regarding most vehicles but not sure if controls and or air fuel would be affected , have to do more homework .
I am happy that there are not any codes though and the spitting back , waning power and hesitation is gone , more so also that the computer will interface with scanner again too
Guy
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 660
Likes: 3
From: Northern California
Thankyou Bob , I was about ready to do a dance when the Code Scanner came back so quick with an answer solving the communication issue , and was even more excited when I test drove and all issues were gone , now I just have to eliminate the code issues for the KOER test , from what I have investigated thus far , the error 77 is no issue since the test does not incorporate a full throttle initiation , I have also found same may be true with steering pressure switch since I was not instructed to turn wheel .
The EGR code it seems might be vacuum lines , I have replaced the EVP Sensor and Valve as well as Vacuum Solenoid/switch and there is no engine code either , so this may just be a automated test issue as well , but will check vacuum lines and see if there is a issue there , may be .
The one that worries me is the Thermactor which involves multiple controls in relation to the Air Pump and Check Valves , but then again why not a code if this is such a big issue , may just remove Air pump and associated controls , I have read that if you do that it has little if no effect on operation and will not generate codes either , have read several aticles stating that people have even passed emissions tests with removed .
The whole idea of the Air Pump is less than ignorant in my opinion regarding most vehicles but not sure if controls and or air fuel would be affected , have to do more homework .
I am happy that there are not any codes though and the spitting back , waning power and hesitation is gone , more so also that the computer will interface with scanner again too
Guy
The EGR code it seems might be vacuum lines , I have replaced the EVP Sensor and Valve as well as Vacuum Solenoid/switch and there is no engine code either , so this may just be a automated test issue as well , but will check vacuum lines and see if there is a issue there , may be .
The one that worries me is the Thermactor which involves multiple controls in relation to the Air Pump and Check Valves , but then again why not a code if this is such a big issue , may just remove Air pump and associated controls , I have read that if you do that it has little if no effect on operation and will not generate codes either , have read several aticles stating that people have even passed emissions tests with removed
.The whole idea of the Air Pump is less than ignorant in my opinion regarding most vehicles but not sure if controls and or air fuel would be affected , have to do more homework .
I am happy that there are not any codes though and the spitting back , waning power and hesitation is gone , more so also that the computer will interface with scanner again too
Guy
You may have switched the electrical connectors (plugs) for the EVR solenoid and the TAB (I think that's what it is) solenoid and they're working, but in the wrong vacuum circuit.
Just a thought for you !!!
Bob
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Richmond, Va
I was pondering your 33 and 44 codes last night..........
You may have switched the electrical connectors (plugs) for the EVR solenoid and the TAB (I think that's what it is) solenoid and they're working, but in the wrong vacuum circuit.
Just a thought for you !!!
Bob
You may have switched the electrical connectors (plugs) for the EVR solenoid and the TAB (I think that's what it is) solenoid and they're working, but in the wrong vacuum circuit.
Just a thought for you !!!
Bob
Guy
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 660
Likes: 3
From: Northern California
Nix the switched elecrical connectors idea, they're different. I looked under the hood this morning.
Probably the vacuum system is "backwards".
Bob
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Richmond, Va
Bad ECM or DIST Module ??????
Yes , I checked , connectors are different , lol , I should have known that as well , vacuum lines are pretty much not able to be reversed either the way they are configured it is impossible to hook them up backwards at the solenoids , and impossible to hook the valves up backwards as well since one is at the rear of the motor and the other is at the front left bottom , pretty much no fault configuration , going to pull the solenoids today and check to see if electrically good , double check vacuum lines with some carb spray and then check valve diaphragms and coffee can , going to get a vacuum gauge and hand vacuum pump to check diaphragms .
Guy
I am still considering removing the the air pump system all together as it seems that one of the valves are no longer available , I am checking with dealer to day on this in case I find one bad so I will be prepared .
Guy
I am still considering removing the the air pump system all together as it seems that one of the valves are no longer available , I am checking with dealer to day on this in case I find one bad so I will be prepared .
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 288
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From: Gridley Ks
WOW!!!!!!!
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Incredible thread! Found this while doing a search to find the root cause of a problem truck I'm going to buy today. Owner says "I'm done spending $$$" on a 95' 5.0 truck that downshifts for no reason while driving. After replacing every mech sensor/gadget a FORD tech suggested ECM swap. Now that I've read this I will open the box and visually inspect 1st!.
Thankyou Guy for laying out all your elec knowledge! This should be a sticky!
Can you post some pics of where the caps go for us DIY'rs??
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Incredible thread! Found this while doing a search to find the root cause of a problem truck I'm going to buy today. Owner says "I'm done spending $$$" on a 95' 5.0 truck that downshifts for no reason while driving. After replacing every mech sensor/gadget a FORD tech suggested ECM swap. Now that I've read this I will open the box and visually inspect 1st!.
Thankyou Guy for laying out all your elec knowledge! This should be a sticky!
Can you post some pics of where the caps go for us DIY'rs??
Last edited by 1800joedaddy; Sep 8, 2012 at 10:56 PM. Reason: Got the truck home and symptems are very similar to OP's
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 660
Likes: 3
From: Northern California
WOW!!!!!!!
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Incredible thread! Found this while doing a search to find the root cause of a problem truck I'm going to buy today. Owner says "I'm done spending $$$" on a 95' 5.0 truck that downshifts for no reason while driving. After replacing every mech sensor/gadget a FORD tech suggested ECM swap. Now that I've read this I will open the box and visually inspect 1st!.
Thankyou Guy for laying out all your elec knowledge! This should be a sticky!
Can you post some pics of where the caps go for us DIY'rs ??
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Incredible thread! Found this while doing a search to find the root cause of a problem truck I'm going to buy today. Owner says "I'm done spending $$$" on a 95' 5.0 truck that downshifts for no reason while driving. After replacing every mech sensor/gadget a FORD tech suggested ECM swap. Now that I've read this I will open the box and visually inspect 1st!.
Thankyou Guy for laying out all your elec knowledge! This should be a sticky!
Can you post some pics of where the caps go for us DIY'rs ??
Click here:A9x ECM's (and same years ECM's) Failures Due to Age
That should get you going in the right direction !!!!
Good luck !!!
Bob
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
Bumping this thread too as it goes into great detail on the capacitor problem. Note the first post on this page where Guy points out that the capacitors are not all rated the same - one is rated differently from the other two.
They should all be replaced even though it's typically the one closest to the center of the board that fails first (and perhaps only), but the other two will follow. Better to do them all now and replace with better components - the part cost is negligible.
They should all be replaced even though it's typically the one closest to the center of the board that fails first (and perhaps only), but the other two will follow. Better to do them all now and replace with better components - the part cost is negligible.