My memory is foggy, but I think you hold the "down" button for 3-5 seconds at startup.

 

I was thinking that these things have RFID built in which work regardless of the state of the battery, once the key is actually in the ignition. The batteries are there for the button operated functions. Is that not right?

 

Gonna try it, thanks!

I believe that is correct

 

You are correct.

 

From https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...test-mode.html

For those with the full message center - hold down the "down arrow" button on the left hand steering control and turn on your truck.

For those without the full message center - hold down the reset button and turn on your truck.

After a few seconds, the truck will enter engineering test mode which is really just a bunch of hidden info screens you can scroll through - there aren't any settings here you can affect.

Some of the data reported:

- gauge sweep test
- led light test
- rom checksum test (useful for tuners)
- rom and epprom levels
- any continous DTC's
- fuel level remaining (gallons and %)
- mileage and DTE
- engine RPM
- vehicle speed
- battery voltage
- coolant temp
- a/d converter values
- lcd screen test

and a few others I've forgotten.

Pretty cool stuff.

 

Eng mode says no continuous DTC's, but hell the truck started so I am happy

Thanks a lot guys!

 

I had a similar issue on my former DD - a 2003 Olds Alero - where one key would work fine all the time, but the spare key was intermittent. I had to follow GM's instructions for resetting the security on the car in order for it to work constantly. In my case, it was turn the key on for 10 minutes until the security emblem on the dash cleared,turn the key off, then turn back on and start the engine.
I wonder in your case if you have a bad or intermittent RFID, or if that is even possible. I always figured they either worked or didn't.

 

I figured it worked or it didn't too but this DTC (B10D7:8F PATS Key: Erratic) may lead me to believe that there could be some room for "sometimes"

We shall see I guess ... but may never know. I case you don't remember, my truck did this last year a couple of times them was fine for a year and I didn't do anything. This time it did it a lot more frequently but seem to have settled down now......

Thanks again for all the help and ideas guys

 

I can tell you in my truck if it doesn't read the key or reads an unauthorized RFID serial number I get an error on the dash. I have a dup. keys that are not programmed to start the truck. (One of the many things I need to do is get my spare key authorized - I lost one key - and I keep hoping I will find it when I am packing things up) You need two keys to re-do the process yourself, otherwise the dealer or locksmith has to do it.

One would think a corrupted RFID would be the same as an unauthorized RFID Key...

I am assuming when it won't start you've tried the other key?

 

Yes, I think I did. I keep a spare key in the truck .... (and my door code is .... if anyone want's it ). I am usually just in a hurry to get the dam thing going and get on with my day. But pretty sure I did try the spare key and it didn't work .....

However ... the manual says .... if you have a good key and a bad key BOTH near the ignition it could cause issues ..... so again .... who knows

 

If you have even a key from another vehicle that is RFID and is near the ignition you could cause a no start condition... I had an issue with my old police car (Ford Taurus) in that if I had my SD keys on the keychain it wouldn't start - BUT it gave you the security error...

Kind of the reason I don't think that is your issue - although it can't hurt to make sure you are only using one key....

 

On a side note. The dealers will tell you that only the newest keys will fit and start these trucks! Not so! There are 80 BIT keys and the fobs will fit, start and lock and unlock these trucks(for those that like the fob separate from the key) just like the new ones. You can get them on Ebay for around $16 each. I may not need to tell you guys this, just throwing it out there though. I have 5 keys and two extra(loose) fobs that I programmed to my truck. And they all work.

 

That's good to know. I hate having this giant key digging holes in my thigh while carrying them in my pocket.

 

I knew the regular, no battery fob would work. Didn't know the other remotes would though. It is a good idea to get a cheap one made so if like me, if you lose one, you can repgram new ones yourself... Saves you $110 from the dealer or $55 from the locksmith.

 

I am trying to eliminate it ....... and you can help ROR

Sooooo when you put in your bad key and the truck will not starts ... when you turn to run...
-Does the low pressure fuel pump start?
-Does the glow plug light come on?

Thanks