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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Bleeding rear brake drums.

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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 04:37 PM
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Bleeding rear brake drums.

It has been years since I have owned a auto that had brake drums, I used to change my own shoes...that isn't my problem, in all this time I have never had to bleed the brakes. I bought my '85 F150 2 wheel drive a year and a half ago and my breaks started leaking down, wheel cylinders are leaking bad. So I got to change out those and the shoes too, I know how to do the shoes, but I have never had to bleed those brakes before and I know i will have to after changing those cylinders out, can you help me out?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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I have always been able to gravity bleed my ford trucks. Just fill the master cylinder and then go the rear wheel farthest from the master cylinder and crack open the bleeder. Use a clear tube with the adapter that snaps onto the bleeder valve (if you can get one). The let the fluid run out into a bottle until it is clear (clean) and no signs of bubbles. Keep an eye on the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't run dry. Repeat on other wheel.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 05:48 PM
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that usually works, you don't even need the clear hose. Just open both of them and let it run through without running the mc dry.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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I have tried gravity bleeding. and if you are patient it will give you a good start, but I have never been able to get the last bit out without doing a regular bleeding procedure.

1st off, make sure you get the wheel cylinders on the correct side. On most of vehicles they can be swapped, and this puts the hard brake line over the bleeder, and you will never get the air out. Just make sure the bleeder is on top.

The hardest part of bleeding the brakes is to find a helper. I usually use the wife or the daughter, though the daughter has moved away now. They both have done this so many times they know the routine without me telling them.

When you take everything apart, try to cap the lines so they will not drain dry. Get everything installed, and make sure the shoes and the drums are all put back together, you can't bleed the system with just the wheel cylinder hanging there.

Fill the master cylinder up, and stick the cap on it without clamping it down. Get your helper to push the brake pedal to the floor. You will probably have nothing. You can get them to pump it a few times if you like, but in the end, they have to hold it to the floor. Then you can crack the bleeder, then shut it. Get them to lift the pedal and then push it back down and hold it again. Crack the bleeder, shut it, and then tell them to lift and push again. It will finally come around and you will start getting fluid with no air in it. After about 5 or 6 bleed attempts, run up and check the master cylinder and keep it full. You do not want to run out of fluid.
 
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