Cab/Chassis Fuel Tank Delamination Issues
#1
08-15-2012, 09:28 PM
Cab/Chassis Fuel Tank Delamination Issues
I am getting a used tank from a cab/chassis truck that I'm told has had the delamination issue. However I want to verify this personally once I get the tank. What will I be looking for? Also anything that can be done to fix or correct it?
My total investment in the tank is $0 so I'm trying to make it work.
My total investment in the tank is $0 so I'm trying to make it work.
#2
08-16-2012, 08:14 AM
Well, forgetting the "you get what you pay for" or "never look a gift horse in the mouth" lines LOL, to inspect for delamination first you do a visual. Look for any obvious bubbles in the material, both inside and out. Then take a quarter, and tap it continuously on the outside, listening for anomolies, a good section will have a sharp rap to it, whereas a delam will have an obvious low pitched thud sound to it. I persoanlly replaced my stocker (after I put a hole in it) with a 55 gal steel aftermarket one, and I love the increased range!
#4
08-16-2012, 11:15 AM
Well, forgetting the "you get what you pay for" or "never look a gift horse in the mouth" lines LOL, to inspect for delamination first you do a visual. Look for any obvious bubbles in the material, both inside and out. Then take a quarter, and tap it continuously on the outside, listening for anomolies, a good section will have a sharp rap to it, whereas a delam will have an obvious low pitched thud sound to it. I persoanlly replaced my stocker (after I put a hole in it) with a 55 gal steel aftermarket one, and I love the increased range!
Yes.
#5
08-16-2012, 11:36 AM
#6
08-16-2012, 11:53 AM
There is a film on the interior that flakes off and reeks havoc. I found a solution to the problem and will do it with a prepump filter too.
#7
08-16-2012, 12:38 PM
Trending Topics
#8
08-16-2012, 01:12 PM
Gas Tank Sealer Kits - Eastwood Gas Tank Sealer
it seemed to work pretty good as far as I could tell. Eventually the cost of replacement OEM style tanks became cheap enough that it didn't make much sense to try and salvage a rusted unit. A brand new tank for my '55 Bel Air cost about $150....I think the Eastwood kit was going to run about $75 so I just went ahead and ordered a new tank.
I wonder if the sealing kit is OK to use with diesel fuel...
#9
08-16-2012, 01:58 PM
This is what I think I am going to try.
Update:
I just wanted to update everyone and what we ended up doing.
After we got the truck back from the dealer, we removed the tank and had a local radiator shop boil out the tank ($125). They replied that "it wasn't their first job like this and that there sure was a lot of crud in there". When we removed the sending unit you sure could see all of the little white specs/flakes on everything. There is a screen/filter on the bottom of the sending unit that was covered and needed to be cleaned. When we got the tank back, i stripped/degreased the inside with a recommended solvent called M.E.K (home depot, $9). I let it dry overnight and then relined the tank with Kreem tank liner mentioned in the above post. Just follow the directions on the can and their website. They are precise and correct. FYi, Kreem is white and pours with an Elmers glue like consistency. I used 2 quarts @ $35/qt. It was enough to do the whole tank. My only recomendation when using Kreem is try and get the final bit out instead of letting it all dry in the tank. We did end up with some streaking due to the liner running and drying at the same time. I let this dry overnight and was satisfied with the results. Tank is being reinstalled today and we don't foresee any problems.
The job sounds difficult but overall was pretty easy. You will need one special tool which is a smaller puller that seperates the fuel line from the tank. I think that was $7 @ local auto parts. Also, allow a little time for this job. You need 3 days for the radiator shop to do there thing. 1 day for the degreasing and drying. 1 day for reline and drying. Also make sure you order the tank liner in advance so you will have it and or not waiting around for it.
I think the total job was under $300.
PM me if you have any other questions.
KD
I just wanted to update everyone and what we ended up doing.
After we got the truck back from the dealer, we removed the tank and had a local radiator shop boil out the tank ($125). They replied that "it wasn't their first job like this and that there sure was a lot of crud in there". When we removed the sending unit you sure could see all of the little white specs/flakes on everything. There is a screen/filter on the bottom of the sending unit that was covered and needed to be cleaned. When we got the tank back, i stripped/degreased the inside with a recommended solvent called M.E.K (home depot, $9). I let it dry overnight and then relined the tank with Kreem tank liner mentioned in the above post. Just follow the directions on the can and their website. They are precise and correct. FYi, Kreem is white and pours with an Elmers glue like consistency. I used 2 quarts @ $35/qt. It was enough to do the whole tank. My only recomendation when using Kreem is try and get the final bit out instead of letting it all dry in the tank. We did end up with some streaking due to the liner running and drying at the same time. I let this dry overnight and was satisfied with the results. Tank is being reinstalled today and we don't foresee any problems.
The job sounds difficult but overall was pretty easy. You will need one special tool which is a smaller puller that seperates the fuel line from the tank. I think that was $7 @ local auto parts. Also, allow a little time for this job. You need 3 days for the radiator shop to do there thing. 1 day for the degreasing and drying. 1 day for reline and drying. Also make sure you order the tank liner in advance so you will have it and or not waiting around for it.
I think the total job was under $300.
PM me if you have any other questions.
KD
#10
08-16-2012, 05:13 PM
The fuel tanks are not really that hard to drop on the F450, there is a plug in the middle of the bottom of the tank. I used my old fuel pump and some hose to drain the tank down to a 1/8 or so. we put a clean drain pan under it and pulled the plug, it still had a little over 8 gallons in it, the fuel that came out was clean. The hardest part was pulling the nuts loose with the impact on the tank straps (without getting dirt in your eyes), we held it up with a floor jack at first, lowered it a little bit and disconnected the lines, wires, and filler hose. We ended up just wrestling it by hand as the floor jack was just in the way. I found the tank in my to be very clean inside, the screens in the mixing bowl were a different story though. Had I known about the in tank mods at the time I would have done them, now I will just wait till it is a problem then do them. I think the total time it was out was less then an hour.
#11
08-16-2012, 06:56 PM
#12
08-16-2012, 07:00 PM
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#14
03-27-2017, 04:30 PM
You boys are the lucky ones. With my 2003 F350 SD 4X4 turbo diesel with only 83K miles, we went thru 5 injectors, 2 fuel filters, 5 tows into the shop, ( one had 12 cows & calves in the trailer when it quit me) and a new fuel tank and a new starter ( due to trying to get the sucker going after it quit me 5 times on the highway). $3500. later back on the road. Love the truck still but Ford should step u and admit their fuel tanks are garbage. The de-lamination is going to get someone killed !
#15
03-27-2017, 06:43 PM
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With my 2003 F350 SD 4X4 turbo diesel with only 83K miles,
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An F-350 should have "plastic" tank. Unless it was borne a flat bed, I think that they came with a steel tank. Just wondering though, if anyone makes a SS tank that does not cost a fortune.
__________________________________________________ ______________________
An F-350 should have "plastic" tank. Unless it was borne a flat bed, I think that they came with a steel tank. Just wondering though, if anyone makes a SS tank that does not cost a fortune.