brakes dragging
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 698
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From: Norman, Ar
I had just replaced the booster and master cylinder 2 years ago. Dang it.
Oh, and when I thought it was going good, proceeded to twist off the end of the brake line to the drivers side hose. It was the fitting behind the shock tower. Thought I was spinning the nut, but the line snapped. Like I needed more to fix.....
Another observation. The brake pads were not wearing evenly. I should say the outers were, but the inners were mostly wearing at the bottom, ie: the leading edge of the pad. Looks like the upper piston was not pushing very hard since it was stuck....
And Oreillys does not have the bearings in a set. You have to buy the bearings and races separate. At least they are in stock. Not Timkens, but National/BCA.
Oh, and when I thought it was going good, proceeded to twist off the end of the brake line to the drivers side hose. It was the fitting behind the shock tower. Thought I was spinning the nut, but the line snapped. Like I needed more to fix.....
Another observation. The brake pads were not wearing evenly. I should say the outers were, but the inners were mostly wearing at the bottom, ie: the leading edge of the pad. Looks like the upper piston was not pushing very hard since it was stuck....
And Oreillys does not have the bearings in a set. You have to buy the bearings and races separate. At least they are in stock. Not Timkens, but National/BCA.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Marysville, WA
Yeah sure.
Got rotors turned.
Installed new bearings and put the rotor on the spindle. Spins free.
New calipers and brake pads on. Still good.
New brake lines installed. Bent up replacement hardline and installed.
Installed bench bled new master cylinder. Started bleeding system.
3 times around the truck and still getting air. Pedal feels good with engine off, but start engine and pedal sinks too far for my comfort. Another booster? I think there is still air in the system, but ......
And the driver's side front drags. Passenger side good. It was a lot harder to install the bracket under the drivers side caliper than the passenger side. Might be the problem.
Got rotors turned.
Installed new bearings and put the rotor on the spindle. Spins free.
New calipers and brake pads on. Still good.
New brake lines installed. Bent up replacement hardline and installed.
Installed bench bled new master cylinder. Started bleeding system.
3 times around the truck and still getting air. Pedal feels good with engine off, but start engine and pedal sinks too far for my comfort. Another booster? I think there is still air in the system, but ......
And the driver's side front drags. Passenger side good. It was a lot harder to install the bracket under the drivers side caliper than the passenger side. Might be the problem.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Norman, Ar
Yeah sure.
Got rotors turned.
Installed new bearings and put the rotor on the spindle. Spins free.
New calipers and brake pads on. Still good.
New brake lines installed. Bent up replacement hardline and installed.
Installed bench bled new master cylinder. Started bleeding system.
3 times around the truck and still getting air. Pedal feels good with engine off, but start engine and pedal sinks too far for my comfort. Another booster? I think there is still air in the system, but ......
And the driver's side front drags. Passenger side good. It was a lot harder to install the bracket under the drivers side caliper than the passenger side. Might be the problem.
Got rotors turned.
Installed new bearings and put the rotor on the spindle. Spins free.
New calipers and brake pads on. Still good.
New brake lines installed. Bent up replacement hardline and installed.
Installed bench bled new master cylinder. Started bleeding system.
3 times around the truck and still getting air. Pedal feels good with engine off, but start engine and pedal sinks too far for my comfort. Another booster? I think there is still air in the system, but ......
And the driver's side front drags. Passenger side good. It was a lot harder to install the bracket under the drivers side caliper than the passenger side. Might be the problem.
It does sound like air in the sytem still.
If you pull the vacuum line to your booster at the engine and plug it,Do you have brakes with the booster disconnected?
Don't know for sure,Still grasping for answers. Good Luck...Trav..
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,980
Likes: 2,735
From: Virginia
How are you bleeding the brakes? You should have been able to crack the line at the master for the rear brakes, and only have to bleed the rear brakes there, since you didn't take them apart.
I hope you have a helper inside pushing the pedal to bleed the brakes.
Also make sure the bleeders on the calipers are on top. If they are not, you have them swapped side to side.
I hope you have a helper inside pushing the pedal to bleed the brakes.
Also make sure the bleeders on the calipers are on top. If they are not, you have them swapped side to side.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Marysville, WA
In 30 years of working on vehicles, I have never had this much trouble getting all the air out.
My unorthodox method is eq
On Edit: Well, it looks like my last post didn't make it.
Bled half a gallon through so far.
I have also found time is important in bleeding. I was pushing the brake pedal down and then putting an Irwin Quick Grip clamp between the pedal and the seat frame. Then going to the bleeder, crack it open then close, release clamp and repeat. I did it this way as I don't have a helper.
The problem is that the time from when the pedal is pressed to the time the bleeder is cracked allows the air travel back to the high points in the system, and thus never gets bled.
I figured this out as after the last round of the above bleeding, I let the truck sit for about 1/2 hour. The next time pushing the pedal, it sank to the floor. I did the above procedure again, but cracked open the line fittings at the master cylinder and bubbles came out both.
Need to find a helper.
My unorthodox method is eq
On Edit: Well, it looks like my last post didn't make it.
Bled half a gallon through so far.
I have also found time is important in bleeding. I was pushing the brake pedal down and then putting an Irwin Quick Grip clamp between the pedal and the seat frame. Then going to the bleeder, crack it open then close, release clamp and repeat. I did it this way as I don't have a helper.
The problem is that the time from when the pedal is pressed to the time the bleeder is cracked allows the air travel back to the high points in the system, and thus never gets bled.
I figured this out as after the last round of the above bleeding, I let the truck sit for about 1/2 hour. The next time pushing the pedal, it sank to the floor. I did the above procedure again, but cracked open the line fittings at the master cylinder and bubbles came out both.
Need to find a helper.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Marysville, WA
Part 2 of proof that time is important when bleeding.
Employed the wife on the brake pedal after she got back from "shopping".
So much more air came out. About 7 pumps per corner and no more bubbles. Last two were straight fluid, but had to make sure.
Now to get the friggin drivers front to quit dragging. The fit on the lower bracket is much tighter than the passenger side. As an experiment, I took out the spring from the bracket and tried it. Much better. Releases almost as well as the passenger side, but the caliper is loose in the brackets(the reason for the spring).
Going to unarch the spring some and try again.
Employed the wife on the brake pedal after she got back from "shopping".
So much more air came out. About 7 pumps per corner and no more bubbles. Last two were straight fluid, but had to make sure.
Now to get the friggin drivers front to quit dragging. The fit on the lower bracket is much tighter than the passenger side. As an experiment, I took out the spring from the bracket and tried it. Much better. Releases almost as well as the passenger side, but the caliper is loose in the brackets(the reason for the spring).
Going to unarch the spring some and try again.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
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From: Marysville, WA
Put the tires back on and went around the block. Stomped on the brakes several times to bed them in and could not get lockup, but you could hear the tires at the limit of traction. ABS on an 82? Ha. 
Truck coasts much more free. Doesn't have the loaded down drag feeling.
And the slight pull to the right in the steering is gone.
I do believe the drag problem was twofold.
Primary problem: The calipers pistons were old and sticking. Actually looked like the upper piston on both calipers were almost siezed.
Secondary and lesser: The caliper slides were not allowing the caliper to move even though they were clean and lubed due to too must spring tension.
The no lockup, especially the rears unloaded does make me think I need to readjust them.
The only parts of this trucks brakes not replaced is the rear flex line to the axle, proportioning valve, and the hardlines, except the one.
I think I have a bad cold coming on, so going to go get some rest.
Truck coasts much more free. Doesn't have the loaded down drag feeling.
And the slight pull to the right in the steering is gone.
I do believe the drag problem was twofold.
Primary problem: The calipers pistons were old and sticking. Actually looked like the upper piston on both calipers were almost siezed.
Secondary and lesser: The caliper slides were not allowing the caliper to move even though they were clean and lubed due to too must spring tension.
The no lockup, especially the rears unloaded does make me think I need to readjust them.
The only parts of this trucks brakes not replaced is the rear flex line to the axle, proportioning valve, and the hardlines, except the one.
I think I have a bad cold coming on, so going to go get some rest.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,980
Likes: 2,735
From: Virginia
Adjusting the rear brakes will make a big difference in your pedal feel and height when the brakes kick in.
The only thing that retracts the pistons in the front calipers is the rubber seal around the piston. It "rolls" when the brakes are applied, and then rolls back when the pedal is released.
Also make sure your inserts where the spring goes are not buggered up on the ends. That can happen after they are hammered in and out a couple of times. A little file work will fix them.
The only thing that retracts the pistons in the front calipers is the rubber seal around the piston. It "rolls" when the brakes are applied, and then rolls back when the pedal is released.
Also make sure your inserts where the spring goes are not buggered up on the ends. That can happen after they are hammered in and out a couple of times. A little file work will fix them.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Marysville, WA
Adjusting the rear brakes will make a big difference in your pedal feel and height when the brakes kick in.
The only thing that retracts the pistons in the front calipers is the rubber seal around the piston. It "rolls" when the brakes are applied, and then rolls back when the pedal is released.
Also make sure your inserts where the spring goes are not buggered up on the ends. That can happen after they are hammered in and out a couple of times. A little file work will fix them.
The only thing that retracts the pistons in the front calipers is the rubber seal around the piston. It "rolls" when the brakes are applied, and then rolls back when the pedal is released.
Also make sure your inserts where the spring goes are not buggered up on the ends. That can happen after they are hammered in and out a couple of times. A little file work will fix them.
I did do some reverse braking and they tightened up some. Still no lockup. May jack it up again tomorrow and adjust them manually.
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