If you have 3 trannies, why don't you contact a rebuilder and see if he will work out a deal with you. Maybe pull apart the three you have and use the parts you have or maybe swap in some parts he has and build you they best he can. You just may come out miles ahead. Check and see if there is a TCI builder close to you - not just some "o yeah, I can build one of those" guys at the local shop. Parts are worth $$$. They just may work out a good deal. AND, you know it will be right for your application. Just a thought.
Fritz

 

Yes, I have thought of this, but again, how is the pro builder going to be able to tell the difference in a drum from a 1973 c6 and a 1979 drum? I don't have a problem with rebuilding it myself, its just that I am afraid to mix and match components from the different years when it won't work if you have the incorrect parts working together. And from what I have learned so far with this thread, that would be a bad idea.

 

bigdan you are making this far too complicated.

A pro builder can tell by eyeballing drums etc.

 

I see. I didn't realize this. In that case it sounds like that is the way to go. It would certainly be much cheaper to have it rebuilt locally than to order one from somewhere else. Thanks for all the help.

 

Seek out a "professional" Transmissions guy, not just a local mechanic. Make sure this is ALL he does. As mentioned above, just by looking at the parts - they can tell what they are for. Building transmissions is all a Trans shop does. I would however, seek out a licensed TCI shop. Most of these guys are very serious about what they do. I run TCI and I have done things to it that would have KILLED most other transmissions... Keep it cool and it should last forever...

I run one of these bad boys. Have it mounted up under the pass side of the cab. Thermostate controlled. You can find ones sim to these at summite or on ebay for less $$$.
http://www.jegs.com/p/B-M/B-M-Hi-Tek...51118/10002/-1


NOTE: while your looking into a good transmission, you might also look into an 'Over/Under drive unit'... It splits all the transmission gears. Gives you twice the amount of gears. I've seen them used for hot rods - heavy truck and RV. Big coin but what a rush through the gears.

 

I've been trying to get my 1987 C6 rebuilt for almost a month now. Learned a lot the hard way. When I ordered the kit online, the years weren't specified and I didn't know any better so of course the kit that showed up was for 1966-77. I looked online and couldn't find anyone to tell me the difference. I should have sprang for a new kit, but instead I thought I would be fine just ordering another shift kit for the correct year. The o-ring and gasket package said 66-96, so it had everything I needed there, but the friction disks were to thin and I couldn't get my clearances correct. So I ordered new friction packs only to put the whole thing back together and find out my clearances are way too much because my Sun Shell is worn out. My NOS Sun Shell will be here Friday. I would suggest downloading a video. I got the "Bad Shoe Production" C6 video. It showed me how everything goes back together much easier than from a book, but didn't do a great job on telling me how to solve problems that I ran into. It made no mention of the different thickness in the friction packs. And made no mention on how to tighten up the clearances. While doing the rebuild, I installed an RV/Towing shift kit, wider band, FF servo and new modulator (cheaper than R code) thinner pressure plates for additional friction discs, along with a new pan with a drain port, an external trans filter and cooler. The video doesn't go into those things too much, but does mention the differences between the years. I would also get a micrometer to measure the friction plates. Make sure you have 3 4 or 5 in your drum and check your clearances. As long as your clearances are correct you are using the right drum and clutch packs. I couldn't get the clearances correct on an 87 drum with .061 thick discs. As soon as I put in the .078 discs my clearances were nice and tight and within spec. I wouldn't take it to a tranny guy. Label the drums and watch the video a few times to get familiar with the parts and you will realize they are pretty simple when you look at one component at a time. I wouldn't buy a rebuild kit. I would do a little research and order parts individually. Also if you don't have one, get on craigslist and find a parts cleaner. I could have bought one for the amount of money I spent on carb cleaner cleaning all the parts. I also found you have to shop around because nobody has all the parts you might need. I thought parts for a C6 would be everywhere, but other transmissions are more common nowadays I guess. Good Luck!

 

Thanks for all the help guys, but after all this I ordered a flywheel and clutch set from L and L and am waiting till I have time to put it on. The 4-speed manual is already in the truck and it will be cheaper this route with less headache. Thanks again.

 

I have a 1979 4 wheel drive van. I also have a 1979 2 wheel drive man. The problem is I have a tiny *** motor in the four-wheel drive and a big-*** motor in the 2 wheel drive. So I want to swap them. Any wise-*** who has ever worked on a vehicle understands that I have a transmission issue. Does anyone know if I have to swap the tail shaft on the C6 in my 2wd to adapt it for 4wd? Never done it before and need guidence.

Old 2wd van has 460 w/ c6. New van 4wd has 351w with baby c6. Will be yanking the 351 & baby c6 combo to replace with 460 & c6 combo. I dont think the tail shafts are the same tho and i need to know how in depth this will be, and what parts i need.

 

You should really start one of your own.

Yes the housings can be changed.
Big problem is output shafts.

The only way they can be swapped is by complete disassembly of the transmission.
Last out first in.

 

There are 3 different direct c6 drums: a 3 clutch, a 4 clutch, and a 5 clutch, the 5 clutch drum is actually a 3 clutch drum with a new snap ring groove cut to allow for 5 clutch use, all direct are interchangable all years.
The forward drum has 8 different drum versions a 31 spline 4 clutch 1966-early 1971, a 31 spine 5 clutch 1966-early1971, and a 31 spline 3 clutch 1966-early-1971. The other versions are a 30 spline 5 clutch 1971 to 1976, a 30 spline late 1976-up a 30 spline 4 clutch late 1971-up a 30 spline 3 clutch 1971-early 1976 and a 30 spline 5 clutch late 1976-up, all are interchangable in the 1966-to 1971 with no issues but if you want to use say a 1976 30 spline in say a 1966 you would have to use the 30 spine input shaft and the matching 30 spine torque converter and vise versa for the 31 spine

 

Yes you will have to change the outputshaft and tail housings as the 2wd has a longer shaft and the 4wd has a shorter shaft, the transmission has to be totally disassembled the remove the shaft because the snap ring that holds it in is under the rear planet

 

You do realize you are replying to a 5-year-old thread, they've probably figured it out by now.