Like the title says, my engine has stalled twice at idle and now is constantly stumbling like someone is cycling my ignition key on and off for a split second.

I've changed my original camshaft sensor with a spare one, then got a grey one from my recall letter over the counter and all 3 has made no difference. I've got a good working blue one now from a friend that I'm willing to try.

I've scanned for codes and have nothing. I've done all the cylinder contribution tests, glow plug tests, key on engine running test and all come back with "system passes"

I've checked my hpop and for a 5 second stall I hit 2200psi between 38%-40% duty cycle. with engine at idle my pressure is at 580psi with a 12 % duty cycle(i think)

I changed the ICP sensor with a good working used one with no difference. I unplugged the ICP sensor and there is no change in operation.

I've checked the wiring and all is good at the ICP regulator and sensor, camshaft sensor.

There is 3 things that will make my engine stall I'm thinking, IDM, ICP regulator going faulty or cam shaft sensor.

Issue is, I priced out a ICP regulator and ford wants $750 after taxes.

I want to cover my bases before I start throwing money and parts at my truck.

Anyone have input or suggestions into what I'm dealing with?

 

Does it start rite up after a stall?

 

Everytime it always re-starts normally.

I changed the camshaft sensor to the blue one today, under wide open throttle at 70 mph, truck boosting at 21 psi, then engine stuttered like it died but then fired back up. It filet like I big jerk in the truck at WOT.

 

The blue one is the wrong sensor...It is the one for the DT466 ...I would put another one in.... As far as the stumbling is the fuel pressure normal and is the FPR screen clean? Also is the nut on the IPR tight ? What shape is the IPR wiring in ? are the wires solid ?

 

The blue cam sensor is out and a new black sensor is back in. I've tried 4 cam sensors, 2 of them being new 1 is the original and then the blue one; there is no difference.

I remove the Fuel Pressure Regulator housing and cleaned it all up, screen included, I'll check the Fuel pressure, I missed that step, thats why I posted this on here.

Nut is tight, selinoid on the regulator is tight. Wiring is good, I even removed the pins in the plug with my pin kit and re-installed them, I checked for pin friction on the plug so the wiring is fine.

 

Sorry for the late response, been working alot lately.

Fuel pressure is at 58psi. The spec I was able to find is between 30-60 but also found another one that says 30-70.

 

I carried on with diagnosing after I checked my fuel pressure.

I removed the whole engine harness and checked over all the wiring and plugs, repaired what needed to be done and installed back onto the truck with no CEL.

I did a run up test as per procedure to check my HPOP so I ran the engine at 3300rpm when hot and my HPOP is putting out 1550 psi.

Spec. is suppose to be between 750-1250 and says to change the oil as the anti-foaming additive is depleated if it climbs over 1250psi so I changed the engine oil and I got the same reading.

I did more research and found if the reading is above 1600psi it could be because of airation of the oil. So the next test says to overfill the crank case by 2 liters, jack up the rear end 10 inches to submerge the oil pickup tube and re run the same test above. This is to check to see if the oil pick up tube is cracked or the O-ring is leaking sucking air. After doing this I got the same 1550psi reading.

So with that done, any one got ideas why my HPOP is putting out to much oil pressure????

 

I'm not sure where you're getting your info for the HPOP, but under load at WOT the HPOP can produce up to 3500 PSI, so I wouldn't worry too much about the 1550 you're seeing.

That fuel pressure is a tad low, but not low enough that I would recommend shimming it, since shimming it at that pressure is likely to put you at or over 75 PSI, which is a little higher than is optimal. I doubt that's your issue either.

Are you still running the 10k mod listed in your sig? I would try it without that just for S&G's. Also, has the truck continued to stumble since you went over the wiring harness?

 

It's worth checking the connection to the Powertrain Control Module- the engine computer on bottom left of the firewall. The connection could be loose or corroded, and I recollect some guys have even found water inside the PCM case.

The connection is on the engine side of the firewall. The PCM is inserted through a gasket into the cabin side of the firewall. I accessed mine from the engine side, some guys access from the cabin side behind the parking brake peda.

I recollect that 2 screws hold the harnes onto the PCM, and two more screws hold the PCM to the body.

An intermittent open cirguit could be causing your problem.

Also, if you have a tuner chip that attaches to the card edge connector on the back/cabin side of the PCM, make sure that is tight and the contacts are good. Mine came loose and drove the engine crazy- would cut out at random times, sometimes not restart for a couple of minutes if it died at idle or low speed.

 

My 97 ford f-350 was cutting out I tried 2 cps and checked with ford it had been replaced it was a gray one with gold like bracket it had 3 holes in the end of it.I bought a new at ford it was $26.00 bucks it is gray in color and it has a silver bracket I put it in and it runs great now

 

The Specs I got was a print off of a 97 diagnostic sheet that I got from Alldata. I did do a Wide open throttle test on the highway today and at 75MPH I was running at 2600PSI truck empty.

58psi is with no shim, I did shim it a number of years ago and I was sitting at 72psi but I've removed all the "homemade" stuff to bring the truck back to stock.

10k mod removed like mentioned above, as for the wiring, it seems to be running better right now but the truck could run like a bag of S%$t one day and the next it runs better but not perfect.

 

The wire harness I went up to was the big coonector on the drivers inner fender. From there on I ran out of time.

I'll check my PCM connection, the PCM was replaced 2 years ago when the original one went faulty, maybe it came loose on me. When my original PCM went bad, it was hunting in and out of O.D. on the transmission. Again, no fault codes at tha time.......

My truck has no chip.

 

New grey cam sensor now is installed

 

ever figure this out?,i am having the same problem,and driving me CRAZY