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Hi All: Just made the first haul with my 2012 F 250 6.7 diesel. Hooked up to my Alpine 39' 5th wheel and here is the problem. The console panel on the F 250 shows that a trailer is connected, however I went all the way up to 10 (maximum) and when I tried out the manual lever to activate the trailer brake there was no response. Any Ideas, do I have to program something into the control panel on the F 250? ----(Note: Factory 7 pin plug is on bumper, but had my dealer install 2nd 7 pin plug in bed of truck when he put in the rails and that is the plug I am using).
You can try the second seven pin plug, but if that doesn't do it, you may want to pull the break-away on your towable to make sure the brakes are working. You can have a good controller and seven pins, but still have no brakes.
Thanks BCM that is what I was thinking, but Ford's Manuel is not a whole lot of help, and the options to Delete a trailer, add a new trailer, select a 5th wheel, etc., is kind of confusing as to whether or not you had to enter something onto the panel. When I get back to civilization I'll get the trailer brakes checked out, till then just drive in tow haul and keep a safe distance.
I agree the Add/Delete/Select feature could be a little more user friendly. Selecting a trailer is just a way to store different trailers with your preset brake settings and it also allows you to track the mileage on a particular trailer, if that is of interest to you. I have three trailers I pull and each one has it's own name. Therefore it allows me to keep track of the mileage of each one by selecting the one I'm towing. At any time, I can increase/decrease the brake gain by pressing the gain control + or - located on the dash.
Hi All: Just made the first haul with my 2012 F 250 6.7 diesel. Hooked up to my Alpine 39' 5th wheel and here is the problem. The console panel on the F 250 shows that a trailer is connected, however I went all the way up to 10 (maximum) and when I tried out the manual lever to activate the trailer brake there was no response. Any Ideas, do I have to program something into the control panel on the F 250? ----(Note: Factory 7 pin plug is on bumper, but had my dealer install 2nd 7 pin plug in bed of truck when he put in the rails and that is the plug I am using).
You didnt say if you were moving or not when you tried the manual lever. Nor, can I figure out what "no response" means in your post. Nothing to program, other than an appropriate gain level.
For me, the Ford brake controller wont lockup the wheels if I am not moving. Unlike the old prodigy I used to have that would lockup the brakes at a standstill. Pretty sure there is a builtin dampening effect that is intentional to avoid the jerking feeling when driving in stop/go traffic.
Where I store my trailer is out in the country, so after hooking up, and on the way home on back country roads, I will manually activate my brakes while moving between 5-20 miles per hour to make sure they are working. I set my gain based on what I consider "normal unloaded stopping performance" when hooked up so that the trailer brakes dont feel too aggressive or too light.
You didnt say if you were moving or not when you tried the manual lever. Nor, can I figure out what "no response" means in your post.
Yes I was moving when I tried the manual lever, moving forward approx. 20mph, what I mean by no response was the fact that activating the brake controller by squeezing together the manual lever elicited no braking response and even moving the gain up to 10 did not result in any braking activated on the trailer.
Yes I was moving when I tried the manual lever, moving forward approx. 20mph, what I mean by no response was the fact that activating the brake controller by squeezing together the manual lever elicited no braking response and even moving the gain up to 10 did not result in any braking activated on the trailer.
Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like you are doing all the right things. If possible, either connect your truck to a known working trailer(other than yours), or hook your trailer to a known working brake controller.
The other thing, is your 5ver true electric brakes, or is it electric over hydraulic disc brakes? if the latter, there is a setting for electric over hydraulic in the setup. Not sure what would happen if not set correctly.
Based on what I found with the testing I mentioned above, I would either be going to the Ford dealership or the RV dealer.
The other thing, is your 5ver true electric brakes, or is it electric over hydraulic disc brakes? if the latter, there is a setting for electric over hydraulic in the setup. Not sure what would happen if not set correctly.
Based on what I found with the testing I mentioned above, I would either be going to the Ford dealership or the RV dealer.
I also saw that on the control panel and will probably give it a try by setting it on electric over hydraulic, even though I think the Keystone Alpine is true electric.
Will be stopping at my RV dealer on the way home to let them check it out also.
Thanks for the suggestions and help
Just did a quick google search on your make fifthwheel. Looks like drum brakes. So the electric over hydraulic would NOT be correct, if thats what are yours are too.
Just did a quick google search on your make fifthwheel. Looks like drum brakes. So the electric over hydraulic would NOT be correct, if thats what are yours are too.
That information is incorrect. Magnets are immediately active and do not get stronger over time, although brakes shoes may bed in. Trailer brakes are measured with amp draw. Voltage has almost no meaning in this application as you can get voltage even in cases of poor connections. Most common problem with trailer brakes is due to poor grounds and poor connections.
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