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No condensation from A/C

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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 02:49 PM
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No condensation from A/C

Hello,

We have a question about our 93 Aerostar. The A/C is working, but not very well. Not cold enough. It is fully charged. We are not able to see any condensation dripping below the car when parked, after running the air. We cannot discover where this condensation is going, or even wbere the hose from the evaporator is supposed to be. Shouldn't it be coming down into the front wheel well area? We have had the van since about 03, and the AC system has been replaced in that time. When the weather is cool (not often this summer) the air works OK, but it isn't keeping up in hot weather. Any suggestions as to what to look for?

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 07:47 AM
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From: Proctorsville VT
[quote=RandB;12158657]

The A/C is working, but not very well. Not cold enough. It is fully charged.

I am curious as to how you checked the charge. Are you using professional gauges or the kind supplied with a refrigerant can? I ask because you may only think you are fully charged. In the past I have recharged my '95 and it took two cans to do so. Similar condition to what you describe, cool not cold with little condensation.
It was not important to me to chase the leak on an older vehicle. I was happy that the "band aid" repair did the trick. I hope you find a similar inexpensive solution.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 02:36 PM
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Run the AC (or defrost) and check to see if the compressor is cycling on and off very often when you're just idling the engine. That's usually an indication of low refrigerant, if you don't have a gauge set to look at the pressures. Do the 93 models use R12 or R134a?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 04:28 PM
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The first thing I'd check is if your fan clutch is in good condition. With the engine off and cold give it a spin it should rotate a bit then stop but not freewheel. When you push it you should feel resistance.

If that's okay check between the radiator and condenser for leaves and debris you won't get proper heat transfer if air can't get through the condenser.

As for proper charge the only way to verify charge is to recover the refrigerant and weigh the recovery cylinder.

A cheap no expensive tools way to check for a low charge is the feel test grab both evaporator lines the small one at the bottom after the orifice tube and the large outlet pipe coming off the accumulator.

If the smaller pipe feels colder than the upper you have a charge issue frost accumulation at the lower evaporator line is another indicator of insufficient liquid refrigerant in the evaporator (low charge). If they feel the same temperature your charge is fine. A clogged orifice tube screen can cause a restriction and produce the same result as a low charge when performing the feel test as well.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by krankshaft
The first thing I'd check is if your fan clutch is in good condition. With the engine off and cold give it a spin it should rotate a bit then stop but not freewheel. When you push it you should feel resistance.

If that's okay check between the radiator and condenser for leaves and debris you won't get proper heat transfer if air can't get through the condenser.

As for proper charge the only way to verify charge is to recover the refrigerant and weigh the recovery cylinder.

A cheap no expensive tools way to check for a low charge is the feel test grab both evaporator lines the small one at the bottom after the orifice tube and the large outlet pipe coming off the accumulator.

If the smaller pipe feels colder than the upper you have a charge issue frost accumulation at the lower evaporator line is another indicator of insufficient liquid refrigerant in the evaporator (low charge). If they feel the same temperature your charge is fine. A clogged orifice tube screen can cause a restriction and produce the same result as a low charge when performing the feel test as well.
For proper way to check for charge, there are two correct ways. The first you mentioned is to use a recovery machine to measure the amount in the system. But the second way is to measure the system to see the correct target high side pressure based on ambient temperatures. If the high side pressure is too low, then either the system is undercharged, or the compressor is not building proper pressure due to a problem. The relationship between the high and low pressures is also critical. To check this requires the use of a manifold gauge set, which by the way is also part of the minimum mandatory tools needed to refill an AC system (the gauges on those DIY cans are almost worthless and can cause a lot of damage).
 
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