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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 08:38 AM
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found a turbo

I went to a scrap metal yard this weekend and found a turbo off of a factory late year 93 f250.

i grabbed everything i could think of that i needed that i have read about here on the forum.

so my question is, this turbo bracket mount on the back of the intake manifold on the original truck, will it mount to mine? the oil return line is also incorporated into the mounting bracket and dumps into/through the valley pan, i have read about putting a hole in the valley pans so the oil can drain back, but i think that was on the after market turbos and not a factory one, can i do the same thing? (see pictures below.









 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:53 AM
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Nice score! It looks like you got everything but the grommet that seals the turbo drain to the valley pan. ( first pic.) To mount that piece to your engine, remove the CDR frome your engine. Take note of the riser pipe on your CDR, If it is rubber, you can cut it and use the bottom part that goe into the valley pan for the grommet that seals the turbo drain. If it is metal, you will need to find a new one. You can get a reseal kit from Typefour, a member on here. His E-mail address was posted on here within the last couple of days, as I don't think you have enough posts to send him a PM. Before installing the turbo mount-drain, take a center punch, screw driver, or some other sharp,sturdy object and drive it threw the valley pan via the hole where the CDR was removed from. This will let the oild drain back to the crankcase a little quicker to help keep the oil from weaping out from aroun the drain grommet. Everything you have will bolt up to ether a 6.9 or 7.3 IDI. Banks makes an upgrade for that flattened out down pipe that will help the engine breathe a little easier for a little over $100.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
yeah,don't waste your time putting that flattened out DP in.
call banks and ask for #52103
then wrap it with 2 layers of header wrap along with the cross over and up pipe for reduced turbo lag and greater efficiency.
it'll be lots of fun to fit in the truck then. but worth it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ay-4-20-a.html
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 11:06 AM
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or.....if you have access to a welder then you could modify your exhaust elbow to a true 3" ID rather than the less than 2.5" that it is right now.

you would have no better time than now to do this mod.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...utlet-mod.html
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 11:39 AM
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If you're interested in a Banks downpipe, I might be able to make you a deal. I bought one for my truck, but am now thinking of going to a PSD 4" exhaust, which includes one that needs to be modded.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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i've been thinking about not using the stock DP. the banks pipe looks good. I am also tempted by the 3" flange mod. so many choices...lol

akamacgyver, I haven't reached the post quota yet to send you a pm...
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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do the 3" mod. it is easy and well worth it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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what down pipe do you use when you go to the 3"? I have read something about PSD down pipes, or are there other options like a length of stainless pipe with a 45 bend in it?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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i got a '94-'97 psd system and modified the dp to work with this turbo system.

i don't see why you couldn't do a custom run of SS pipe. just seems more cost effective to get the psd dp.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 12:25 AM
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With the turbo out, how can you tell what angle to weld the pipe at? I want to do it myself but I don't even have my engine in right now! I guess if it is offset slightly, you could rotate it to where you need it, but I'd hate to get it wrong. I think I am going to buy this kit. I would rather weld on the aluminized, and it will hold out just fine for me.

4" Exhaust Ford F250 F350 Powerstroke Diesel 94-97 7.3L #K4307A-RP Straight Pipe | eBay

Genius, if you want to get a hold of me about the Banks downpipe, shoot me an e-mail at akamacgyver(at)live.com. I am in Denver until Friday, but when i get home I can look into shipping and see if we can make a deal. You are also going to want to get a ATS reseal kit from Typefour (that is his username here) it is 55 bucks and includes all o-rings and grommets for that turbo. I just ordered one myself.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by akamacgyver
With the turbo out, how can you tell what angle to weld the pipe at? I want to do it myself but I don't even have my engine in right now! I guess if it is offset slightly, you could rotate it to where you need it, but I'd hate to get it wrong. I think I am going to buy this kit. I would rather weld on the aluminized, and it will hold out just fine for me.
as long as you cut and reweld on the same plane as the orginal outlet you will be just fine and still pointed in the same direction.

or are you asking about the DP?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 08:29 AM
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I think he may have been asking about the DP. if i go the 3" ss route, i will use the stock DP as a guide of what bends it needs to have and where.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 10:02 AM
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stacks of washers inside the v-band flange for my down pipe. they are all the same height. i used this set up so i could get the down pipe to sit at the depth into the flange that i wanted. this set-up worked good for me.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:02 AM
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or you could of used this thing called a hand. and held the flange where you wanted it, lol.

Jus' sayin'
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:29 AM
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Depending on the tightness of the pipe fitting to the flange, I could see how the washers would help keep everything squared
 
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