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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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Another Possible Stupid Question...

Ok... Here goes. About a month or so ago, my muffler blew up and the truck has been running like crap ever since then. I haven't put in my fuel regulator yet because I'm waiting for the pluming parts from Jegs. Would having an open exhaust affect the timing? I just wanted to get it running so I can take it back to the garage that rebuilt the engine.

Any Suggestions/Comments?

For those that dont know... Its a 68 Ranger. 360 C6.

BTW: The truck ran great before the Exhaust blew... Well... It ran great until about 5 minutes before the exhaust blew...
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 10:24 AM
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Open exhaust at your muffler (assuming it's a stock exhaust setup) shouldn't affect how the truck runs.

Is it the stock exhaust system or has it ever been replaced? I have heard that some exhaust systems of the day had double-walled pipes and the inner pipe, with nowhere to expand because of the outer, would kink up and collapse into the exhaust flow causing a huge restriction.

I'm not sure if Ford ever adopted the double-walled setup but perhaps it could explain why you blew up the muffler and it ran poorly since.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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I've heard of situations like these too..it had to do with a massive backfire into the exhaust then the guy could never get his truck to run right. Eventually he had to disassemble the engine and I guess parts were pretty damaged.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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I hope thats not the case... I just had the engine rebuilt. It has less than 300 miles on it...
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:51 PM
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running bad

I still think you have an ignition problem. Did you check the things that were suggested when you first posted the problem?
Kenny Nunez
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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As crazyeddie said, we ran across a lot of the collapsed pipes when I worked at a dealership. Late 60's early 70's.
If it was running great until about 5 minutes before the exhaust went I would suspect ignition problems. Raw fuel got into muffler then ignited.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 03:28 PM
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I'm thinking ignition problem first too,causing the blow out and not running right now , not the other way around.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:50 PM
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Hey cuz, There aint but one thing that will blow a muffler and it takes 2 ingredients, raw gas and spark. No need to look 1 mil. past that.

You can think on it and pull your hair out, but it will always come back to that.




John
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by GLR
As crazyeddie said, we ran across a lot of the collapsed pipes when I worked at a dealership. Late 60's early 70's.
If it was running great until about 5 minutes before the exhaust went I would suspect ignition problems. Raw fuel got into muffler then ignited.
Ford dealers? I only ever ran into it on GM cars, Buicks and Caddys mostly and never after the muffler, always before. Pretty easy to tell if you put a vacuum gauge on.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by kenny nunez
I still think you have an ignition problem. Did you check the things that were suggested when you first posted the problem?
Kenny Nunez
Yep. I checked everything. The only thing I haven't done was to put the fuel regulator on. I will be doing this sometime this week.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 06:33 AM
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From: Ball Ground Georgia
Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Ford dealers? I only ever ran into it on GM cars, Buicks and Caddys mostly and never after the muffler, always before. Pretty easy to tell if you put a vacuum gauge on.
I used a timing light on it but not a vacuum gauge on it. I bought one from harbor freight but really don't know how to use it. Do you know of an instructional on how to use it? What the reading should be, where to connect it, etc...

Thanks in advance...
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 1968 F100 Ranger
Yep. I checked everything. The only thing I haven't done was to put the fuel regulator on. I will be doing this sometime this week.
Why do you need a fuel regulator? Electric or HO mechanical pump? If so it's possible you are overpowering your carb's inlet valves, filling the float bowls entirely, and puking fuel down the intake through the bowl vents; which would explain the ignition in your muffler.

What carb do you have? Carbs should only see max 5-6psi fuel pressure. Much more than this and you have what I described above. The regulator (properly adjusted) should solve the problem.

willowbilly3, good point. Don't they usually go right after the manifolds/headers? Bad post on my part
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Ford dealers? I only ever ran into it on GM cars, Buicks and Caddys mostly and never after the muffler, always before. Pretty easy to tell if you put a vacuum gauge on.
Yes, a Ford dealership. The exhaust pipes coming from the manifolds to the muffler(s). Before the cats were required.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by crazyeddie
Why do you need a fuel regulator? Electric or HO mechanical pump? If so it's possible you are overpowering your carb's inlet valves, filling the float bowls entirely, and puking fuel down the intake through the bowl vents; which would explain the ignition in your muffler.

What carb do you have? Carbs should only see max 5-6psi fuel pressure. Much more than this and you have what I described above. The regulator (properly adjusted) should solve the problem.

willowbilly3, good point. Don't they usually go right after the manifolds/headers? Bad post on my part
I have an electric fuel pump and I have a Motorcraft 2100 carb.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 1968 F100 Ranger
I have an electric fuel pump and I have a Motorcraft 2100 carb.
Holy crap! That thing could be pushing 20+ psi fuel pressure to the carb without a regulator!
 
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