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Ok... Here goes. About a month or so ago, my muffler blew up and the truck has been running like crap ever since then. I haven't put in my fuel regulator yet because I'm waiting for the pluming parts from Jegs. Would having an open exhaust affect the timing? I just wanted to get it running so I can take it back to the garage that rebuilt the engine.
Any Suggestions/Comments?
For those that dont know... Its a 68 Ranger. 360 C6.
BTW: The truck ran great before the Exhaust blew... Well... It ran great until about 5 minutes before the exhaust blew...
Open exhaust at your muffler (assuming it's a stock exhaust setup) shouldn't affect how the truck runs.
Is it the stock exhaust system or has it ever been replaced? I have heard that some exhaust systems of the day had double-walled pipes and the inner pipe, with nowhere to expand because of the outer, would kink up and collapse into the exhaust flow causing a huge restriction.
I'm not sure if Ford ever adopted the double-walled setup but perhaps it could explain why you blew up the muffler and it ran poorly since.
I've heard of situations like these too..it had to do with a massive backfire into the exhaust then the guy could never get his truck to run right. Eventually he had to disassemble the engine and I guess parts were pretty damaged.
As crazyeddie said, we ran across a lot of the collapsed pipes when I worked at a dealership. Late 60's early 70's.
If it was running great until about 5 minutes before the exhaust went I would suspect ignition problems. Raw fuel got into muffler then ignited.
As crazyeddie said, we ran across a lot of the collapsed pipes when I worked at a dealership. Late 60's early 70's.
If it was running great until about 5 minutes before the exhaust went I would suspect ignition problems. Raw fuel got into muffler then ignited.
Ford dealers? I only ever ran into it on GM cars, Buicks and Caddys mostly and never after the muffler, always before. Pretty easy to tell if you put a vacuum gauge on.
Ford dealers? I only ever ran into it on GM cars, Buicks and Caddys mostly and never after the muffler, always before. Pretty easy to tell if you put a vacuum gauge on.
I used a timing light on it but not a vacuum gauge on it. I bought one from harbor freight but really don't know how to use it. Do you know of an instructional on how to use it? What the reading should be, where to connect it, etc...
Yep. I checked everything. The only thing I haven't done was to put the fuel regulator on. I will be doing this sometime this week.
Why do you need a fuel regulator? Electric or HO mechanical pump? If so it's possible you are overpowering your carb's inlet valves, filling the float bowls entirely, and puking fuel down the intake through the bowl vents; which would explain the ignition in your muffler.
What carb do you have? Carbs should only see max 5-6psi fuel pressure. Much more than this and you have what I described above. The regulator (properly adjusted) should solve the problem.
willowbilly3, good point. Don't they usually go right after the manifolds/headers? Bad post on my part
Ford dealers? I only ever ran into it on GM cars, Buicks and Caddys mostly and never after the muffler, always before. Pretty easy to tell if you put a vacuum gauge on.
Yes, a Ford dealership. The exhaust pipes coming from the manifolds to the muffler(s). Before the cats were required.
Why do you need a fuel regulator? Electric or HO mechanical pump? If so it's possible you are overpowering your carb's inlet valves, filling the float bowls entirely, and puking fuel down the intake through the bowl vents; which would explain the ignition in your muffler.
What carb do you have? Carbs should only see max 5-6psi fuel pressure. Much more than this and you have what I described above. The regulator (properly adjusted) should solve the problem.
willowbilly3, good point. Don't they usually go right after the manifolds/headers? Bad post on my part
I have an electric fuel pump and I have a Motorcraft 2100 carb.