I thought about putting this in the daily thread, but....

Thought my driver's side rear brake cylinder was leaking as there was fluid buildup on the lower part of the backing plate and around the drum. Pulled the drum a little bit ago and found the brakes are all looking really good, including shiny brake cylinders and newer springs, but the axle seal is leaking.

Started looking online and getting confused. I have the Dana 60 semi-float rear axle with 2 1/2" brakes. There are so many options for seals and bearings I am not sure which is which and right for my axle. Some say 9.75 ring gear and others 10.25 like it is for the Sterling.

For the cost of most of the bearings I saw, I could go the JY and get a Sterling full float, but then the costs of rebuilding it.....

This was my daily driver, till I put it on jackstands today. So which way do I go?

Fix the Dana 60 semi floater or get a Sterling and rebuild that?

I am leaning towards just replacing the bearings and seals in the 60 as this is just my daily driver (8.5 miles to work and back, and maybe a couple hundred pounds max from Home Depot or Lowes). Anything heavier goes in the Superduty.

So anyway, who has a breakdown of the parts for the Dana 60 Semi Floater? Lot of rambling to ask a simple question huh.

 

How about checking the vent on the driver's side axle tube? If it's clogged, that can make the seals leak.

 

Post the AXLE code that is printed on the Certification Label. Then when decoded, the type of rear axle will be known.

I'll list the part numbers, MSRP & FTE member discount prices.*

As Franklin2 said, a clogged rear axle vent will cause pressure build up, causing seals to leak.

> > The 1980/89 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalog is available on a CD from hipoparts.com < <

* FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsors give online parts discounts: horizonpartsguy.com (formerlypartsguyed.com) = Horizon Ford Truck Center: Tukwila WA

 

Quite true, but given the age of the vehicle, it's doubtful that the seal would quit leaking after unclogging the vent.

 

Already checked the vent, clear.

I need to update the sig.

 

Chief, post the AXLE code from the Certification Label, you can update your sig any 'ol time.

I'm 'off duty' today, so now's the time. Tomorrow, I may be giving tours of the USS Iowa (BB-61), now berthed in LA Harbor as a museum ship.

 

Just got it 37

 

I get the impression from your post that you want to redo the whole thing, and that's why you are debating on the cost versus doing something else. You can perform surgery on the rearend and have quite good success. By that I mean, pull the axle check the bearings, if they are good just replace the seals and drive on.

 

I would prefer to do it right and go through the whole thing, but I want it back as my driver more.

There is no movement when trying to rock the axle, as in the bearings still feel good. It does have the slight in/out due to the c-clip.

Long term plan is/was to find a Sterling with a limited slip to rebuild. I really like the Sterling in my Superduty.

 

37: 1980/82 Dana 60.3 / 3.54-1 / no Limited Slip / 5,300 lb. Rear Axle Capacity.

Inspection cover: No gasket, parts catalog sez use sealer.

2) F7UZ-1S177-A (replaced EOTZ-1177-A & F7UZ-1177-A) .. Axle Seal (Motorcraft BRS-52) / Available from Ford.

MSRP each: $17.92 // horizonpartsguy.com price each: $12.90.
-------------------------------------------------------------
2) EOTZ-1225-A .. Axle Bearing (Motorcraft BRG-8) / Available from Ford.

MSRP each: $66.57 // horizonpartsguy.com price each: $47.93.

 

C-clip axles, interesting. If the bearing is press fit, you most likely have to replace the bearing and seal, since the seal is typically outboard of the bearing.
A slip-fit bearing won't need replaced, unless it's bad. Chances are, it's a press fit with locking ring.

 

Being a C-clip, I should be able to just pop the diff cover, remove the center pin, push the axle in, pop off the clip, and pull the shaft. I think the bearing is a cylindrical roller type and the axle rides directly on the rollers, no lock ring. And there is no retaining plate behind the brake backing plate.


Bill, does that mean the bearing and seal are one assembly?

 

If the bearing is a cylindrical roller type and the axleshaft rides directly on the rollers, then you shouldn't need the bearing unless it's bad.
Your disassembly proceedure sounds spot-on for this type axle. Kind of like a 7.5/8.8 on steroids......

 

Exactly. I have heard of the smaller axles breaking c-clips, but never heard that with the D60. Plus it has 1.5" diam 35 spline shafts.

And like I said, there is no radial play in the axleshaft. Just the slight in/out from the clip, so I think the bearing is ok, but if the bearing and seal are an assembly, then they both get replaced.

 

If the rollers do ride directly on the shaft, then also inspect the shaft for wear. This is my main gripe about this design. The shaft can wear away if/when a bearing starts to fail *or* if a seal starts leaking and the axle isn't kept full of lube.

I doubt the bearing and seal are a combined unit, as Bill posted separate part numbers for the bearing and the seal. However, there is a possibility that an aftermarket "repair" bearing has been used, like those available for the 7.5/8.8. These relocate the rollers to a different spot on the shaft, and use an integrated seal.

See Bill's updated info above.