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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Throttle body stop screw!

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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 12:44 PM
  #16  
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Interesting idle is nice about 750 rpm all warmed up but in gear it will still jump to second gear after a few seconds of giving it no gas. Sounds like if its still getting a tad bit too much air through the butterflies.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 10:46 PM
  #17  
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Any other 5.0 throttle bodies? I want to see pics of the stop screw
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 11:47 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by f-150_1993
Any other 5.0 throttle bodies? I want to see pics of the stop screw
This is the best I have. Don't know if it will help, but here you go!




Chris
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 12:46 AM
  #19  
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Trying to judge how to set your screw based on others is pointless. They have the screw there to account for manufacturing differences.

Unplug the IAC valve, and set the screw until the engine just holds a steady idle. Around 500-550 RPM, then plug the IAC back in.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 03:12 AM
  #20  
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Thank you, yea I tried that and it wasn't so helpful the pics helped more haha. The truck idles too low when I set it like that. Thanks again both of you I nearly got it now it does about 8 MPH without gas so I just left it as is. The super small difference helps the alternator not run out of juice at idle
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 06:56 AM
  #21  
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As noted before that screw sets a baseline idle RPM. The Engine computer (PCM) controls the idle by modulating the IAC. You have something else causing your whacky idle speed.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 07:40 AM
  #22  
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Ohk umm its been cleaned several times, I've heard that from factory there was a gel coating thing on the inside walls of the TB maybe the butterflies don't seal like they used to.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #23  
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You took the throttle body off to clean it? Did you check if you mighta damaged a gasket, or cracked a vacuum line? A vacuum leak after the throttle body can cause a high idle.

If it's still acting screwy after doing what was mentioned above (unplug IAC, set base idle, reconnect IAC) you got another problem.

You can use a propane torch or a can of ether (starting fluid) to check for leaks. Move the can of ether or propane torch (don't light it!) around the throttle body area with the engine idling and IAC unplugged. If you get to a certain spot and see the engine RPM go up, you've found your leak.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 11:13 AM
  #24  
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I think the gel coating just wore off, I scrubbed the throttle body that's why. I got plugs to cover the tiny holes on the butterflies and its better now
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #25  
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Well, pluggin the holes in the throttle body will let less air in the engine and lower the idle, but WHY is more air gettin in after you worked on the TB? Is it really because you scrubbed it inside... I mean, damn did you use a dremel tool!!??

I'd check for leaks, since a vacuum leak is air that didn't go thru the MAF sensor. This will make the oxygen sensors read lean, and the computer will add more fuel to compensate... which equals worse gas mileage.

Up to you, I'm just offering my advice here since you obviously came here for help...
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 01:20 PM
  #26  
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Not at all bro I just used a tooth brush. Its weird but the butterflies don't have a nice tight seal anymore. Idle is just normal not even low. Ill test the gas mileage though.
 
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