I'm going to tackle the heater core replacement. In my search for parts I ran across Dorman 800-404 heater hose clips. Anybody use these? If they are @#!%, is there a preferred clip to use? Also I noticed on the heater hose leading to the core, that there is a metal crimp on the end before the clip. Does this mean once I trash the clip getting the hose off the core, I have to cut off the metal crimped end of the hose to attach the aftermarket clip via hose clamp? Also I hear mention of some O rings and a spacer. Not sure if the clips come with those or not. Anyway, since I can't really visualize what to expect, any feedback would be appreciated. I know about the 2 part thread discussing the procedure, so no need to point me to that.
Thanks for any help.

97' Ford Aerostar
3.0L
w/AC

 

If you can not remove the clip ends without destroying them, you will have to break them off. I've heard of the existence of those clip ends, but never seen them myself. But I do recall that you cut off the stock clip ends and clamp the new ones onto the hose ends. That means the next time you need to pull them off, you might end up breaking them off as well.

But why would you want to? If you can get enough length from the remaining hose after cutting off the clip ends, you can just jam them onto the nipples from the heater core, and put host clamps around those. You can use ratcheting box-end wrenches to tighten the clamps. If you don't have enough stock hose left, add small sections to extend them. You will need double nipple fittings to attach new extending hose pieces to the stock hoses.

 

Your best chance of separating the fittings without breaking anything is with the special tool. OTC makes an affordable one OTC 7413 for about 10-15 bucks if you look online. At that price it really doesn't pay to be messing around with pliers IMO. Some auto parts stores may rent them out for free too.

Watch this video starting at 3:00. It will show you how to use the tool.

F150 Heater Core part 1 - YouTube

Yes if you break the black half of the fitting you'll have to cut the hose at the barb and use the black portion of the Dorman kit with a hose clamp or an extension nipple and hose clamps. The second video illustrates what the Dorman kit looks like. If the black sides of the fittings on the hoses survive just replace the white retainer clips, spacers, and o rings.

Check this video out starting at 9:12 it will show you how to set up the white retainers and o-rings on the other side of the hose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyOtCAkWSRE&feature=plcp

Again if you want to keep it stock use the Dorman kit if you don't want to be bothered just cut the fittings off and use a barbed extension and hose clamps to join those hoses together.

 

Looks like you are becoming my go-to guy. Thanks for the info. The videos sure help. Any recommendations for the replacement heater-core? I'll probably order the parts online, and I want to be sure I get the right stuff.

 

A site the guys on these forums recommended to me years ago and I still use for practically everything is Rockauto.com.

Here's a code for 5% off just enter it in the how did you hear about us box. You get one a few weeks after placing an order I order from them all the time so I always have a new code. This ones good till September 16th.

103782498535625

As for heater core brand I have no real preference I've ordered TYC and Spectra Premium radiators before with no issues.

You may need some adhesive backed foam weatherstripping from the big box store since most of the replacement heater cores don't come with it. It helps seal air leaks between the core body and the air box. The stuff on the stock core will probably disintegrate if you try to pull it off.

 

Never did the heater core replacement on my '95 Aero. When I did the heater core on my '01 Expedition, a local shop recommended cutting the old heater core tubes on the dash side (hacksaw blade, tube cutter, whatever you have room for) and pushing the still connected ends through the firewall towards the hoses. WAY easier to disconnect the heater core tubes from the hoses with both hands in this manner. Looked as though I could've reused the old connectors if I had to.

Don't know if this translates to the Aero but the tip was invaluable for the Expedition.

 

No need for the special tool to separate the quick connects with this method, by the way.

Napa brand heater core and quick connect kits worked out fine for my repair.

 

That makes too much sense. Thanks for the tip. I'll see if I can get a blade back there.

 

I made the cuts very close to the heater core, right where the tubes attach. The heater core is free at this point and can be removed. Now you have enough room to snake the cut ends through the firewall. If it seems easier, cut off the bends and push the straight ends through.
Pay attention to the connectors as you take them apart. I don't remember exactly, but there may be a lube for the new o-rings. If it's needed it'll be included with their purchase.

For the reinstall, I heard from many that they were more comfortable with cutting the QDs off, pushing the heater hoses over the new core tube barbs and tightening them with regular hose clamps. I wasn't thrilled with the clearance I was seeing on the engine side for this arrangement. When I used the new connectors, a very slight push was followed by a quiet "click" and the install did not leak.

Notice how the old heater core is wrapped with foam tape. Wrap the new one with window weather seal tape from the hardware store before you put it in place.

Anybody ever had to find a new blend door for a '97? If one is available, consider the purchase. The plastic factory ones on the Expedition are notorious for failure.

Don't forget to burp the system when all is back together. Eliminate the step and you'll forever be listening to gurgle from under the dash.