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2010 F150 with 4.6 2v. Changed the plugs today (side note, this engine does NOT come from factory with platinum plugs ) Anyway, the location I chose to do this was under a shade tree (no pun intended) by the house, but I had no access to compressed air to blow out the plug holes before removing plugs. In a moment of rare ingenuity for me...I went inside and got the can of dust remover (basically a can of propellent) used to clean out computer keyboards. It worked great ! If you find yourself in need of some compressed air, see if this will work for you. It may have already been mentioned here before, as I admittedly did not search, but I hope this is helpful to someone.
awq134, I have 63k on the clock right now. I bought the truck new in March '11, with 75 miles on it. I average about 50k a year, 85-90% highway driving. I was thinking it was a little soon, but did not realize that this engine used standard plugs and not platinum tip, so I am glad I decided to change. The originals were in ok shape, but the gap had begun to grow a little (top end of spec = .056") but more importantly had began to lose their shape and had begun to round off . I went with NGK platinum tips, forget the NGK #, but it was Autozone part # 3186 I believe, at a little over $3 each. Also, since you have the same engine, you will need to remove the two bolts that hold the fuel rail on each side in place. I did not remove the rail, but it will allow it to move enough side to side to allow you to pull out the coil/boot assembly pretty easy. Passenger side rear plug is the toughest to reach, and next to last plug on driver's side is almost directly under the hard pipe for the EGR....patience here a good thing
Is plug seizing and cracking during removal on the 5.0 litre still a problem as in the mid-2000's or is all that bs over with after retirement of the 5.4L engines??
Not sure it was ever an issue on the new (2010+) 5.0 or not. I have the 4.6 2v so it is not an issue. I know it was an issue with the 4.6 and 5.4 3v engines with the 2 piece plugs. My wife's '08 stang has the 4.6 3v , but they changed the head design and the plug sometime in '08 to fix this issue. Not sure of the manufacture date, but on the 4.6, the tell tale sign is , if your coils have the brown boots, you have the new one piece design, I assume it is the same for the 5.4, but not sure. I am admittedly ignorant on the new 5.0 engines and plugs, but I am sure someone here knows and will chime in.
awq134, I have 63k on the clock right now. I bought the truck new in March '11, with 75 miles on it. I average about 50k a year, 85-90% highway driving. I was thinking it was a little soon, but did not realize that this engine used standard plugs and not platinum tip, so I am glad I decided to change. The originals were in ok shape, but the gap had begun to grow a little (top end of spec = .056") but more importantly had began to lose their shape and had begun to round off . I went with NGK platinum tips, forget the NGK #, but it was Autozone part # 3186 I believe, at a little over $3 each. Also, since you have the same engine, you will need to remove the two bolts that hold the fuel rail on each side in place. I did not remove the rail, but it will allow it to move enough side to side to allow you to pull out the coil/boot assembly pretty easy. Passenger side rear plug is the toughest to reach, and next to last plug on driver's side is almost directly under the hard pipe for the EGR....patience here a good thing
I'll save this to my desktop, so i know the tricks when it's time to change mine. Thanks for the tips.
Glad I could help, Lord knows that I have gotten tons of help over the years from these forums. Also, as a side note, I disconnected the battery while changing plugs, and this allowed it to reset and relearn as I drove over the next couple of days. Now much smoother, and if you can sacrifice a little MPG, and can do it reasonably (read safely ) If you will drive it harder for a while, the transmission learns more aggressive shift patterns. Nothing drastic, just downshifts faster, holds lower gears a little longer...just seems "better" to me. It will take a couple of days of driving for most folks to get it to reset completely, but I thought it worth mentioning.
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