turbo wheel install
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
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turbo wheel install
I just bought a new wheel for my truck from riff raff and like always this truck is putting up a hard fight for me to install it. if there are any threads for this topic please someone point me to them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
This is for a super duty, but it's the same principle. http://dieselsite.com/wwinst.pdf
The housing has to come off of the intake side, the exhaust side has to be held still while you break the wheel loose. The safest way to do it is pull the turbo, but it can be done by just removing the housing, breaking the down pipe loose and using a screwdriver to hold the exhaust wheel in place.
The housing has to come off of the intake side, the exhaust side has to be held still while you break the wheel loose. The safest way to do it is pull the turbo, but it can be done by just removing the housing, breaking the down pipe loose and using a screwdriver to hold the exhaust wheel in place.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 36
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fordpride is correct I just replaced my wheel about 3 weeks ago and there was no way to get the housing off while the turbo was in the truck. It took me about a day to do it but i also installed new injector o rings as part of my repairs. Be patient with the pedestal bolts and its not to bad.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Thanks for the correction. It's been a while and I couldn't remember for sure.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
You will need a new set of orings for the pedistal as well.
Are you changing cause of damage??
Or did you buy a wicked wheel?
If so, send it back. Its the same wheel.
Are you changing cause of damage??
Or did you buy a wicked wheel?
If so, send it back. Its the same wheel.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
If you are removing the turbo, you will need new orings for the pedestal and or turbo.
Is your wheel damaged?? Or did you buy a wicked wheel?
The wicked wheel is just an obs wheel.
Its just a clever marketing ploy and bandaid for sd guys. Poor suckers.
If thats the case, send it back.
If its damaged, tell us more so we can make sure you get it done right.
Is your wheel damaged?? Or did you buy a wicked wheel?
The wicked wheel is just an obs wheel.
Its just a clever marketing ploy and bandaid for sd guys. Poor suckers.
If thats the case, send it back.
If its damaged, tell us more so we can make sure you get it done right.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 324
Likes: 1
From: VA BEACH
from your other thread it sounds like your wheel is dusted pretty good. turbo needs to come out.. turbo removal isnt too bad by itself the worst part i ran into was the exhaust collector being misaligned due to remova and replacing the donut gasket sealsl. after the turbo is removed remove the 4 12 point bolts holding the compressor housing to the turbo and hold to nut on the exhaust side while spinning off the wheel, then reinstall the new wheel.. and slap the turbo back in.
as far as removal i found the rear pedestal bolts to be alot easier with a mac 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket with a 2" extension to a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter and a 6" extension using a 3/8 ratchet. front 2 are easily accesed. on the exahust collector the nuts are easily broke loose with a 15 mm wrench cut down with a 1/2 socket welded to it at a 90 degree angle (whoever posted that picture of the one they made i owe big time for all the frustration it saved) with a 6" 1/2" drive extension and a 1/2" breaker bar. rust penetrate helps too
make sure you have new pedestal o-rings and would be a good idea to eliminate the leak points at the ebpv solinoid, mine was starting to leak while the turbo was off
as far as removal i found the rear pedestal bolts to be alot easier with a mac 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket with a 2" extension to a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter and a 6" extension using a 3/8 ratchet. front 2 are easily accesed. on the exahust collector the nuts are easily broke loose with a 15 mm wrench cut down with a 1/2 socket welded to it at a 90 degree angle (whoever posted that picture of the one they made i owe big time for all the frustration it saved) with a 6" 1/2" drive extension and a 1/2" breaker bar. rust penetrate helps too
make sure you have new pedestal o-rings and would be a good idea to eliminate the leak points at the ebpv solinoid, mine was starting to leak while the turbo was off
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