F650 Dash Project Thread
#1
F650 Dash Project Thread
This is gonna be a long one. So buckle up and get some pop corn.
PART 1: THE DASH
Lets start out with the dash itself. I ordered it from Riffraff and got it about 2 weeks later. I am VERY pleased with it. It's obvious that Clay takes pride in his work and the fact that "Made in USA" has to mean something
This is how it looked coming out of the box:
You can see that both sides of the face plate are engraved. This way you can choose either the larger or smaller logos.
After just a few minutes I already got to modding
All switches are Carling Contura II rocker switches. I got the labels and extra switches form a company called MUD UK. I wish I didnt have to order from UK but Carling switches are some of the MOST COMPLICATED thing to try and order online, and this company makes it easy and also has some switches I cant find anywhere else. They also made the LED window labels.
BEACON: This will be my flag light. I am wiring in a light to mount in the bed so that I can (respectfully) fly my flag at night. It have done it once out of necessity because I didnt want to lay the flag in the bed. So I took my LED mag light and stuck it in the stake pocket. It gave it a super cool effect and in 20 minutes I got 2 thumbs up, a honk and a train horn.
BLANK 1: Right now this switch is just an ON-OFF, but it will be changed to an ON-ON-OFF. This kind of switch allowed you to turn on one, or two circuits with one switch. I am going to wire it up to off road lights. The first circuit will be driving lights, the second will be long range lights.
BLANK 2: No registered purpose yet.
OBA: This will provide switched power to an on board air (OBA) compressor.
UP|DOWN: This is a MOM-OFF-MOM switch that will activate one of two 12v solenoids in the air system. One will allow air to flow into the air bags, one will drain the air bags. This is effectively just like the Firestone kit, just a lot nicer and sleek looking.
DOWN: Currently this is also a MOM-OFF-MOM but will be switched out for a MOM-OFF. This is going to also activate a 12v air solenoid. This one will be plumbed into the air tank so that the tank can be drained of pressure.
The two gauge pods will hold 2 air pressure gauges, one for the tank, and one for the bags. I am still playing around with this and if ISSPRO will make me a dual needle version I might opt for that. However that decision will ultimately depend on price. They do offer a dual needle, just not in the EV2 and this whole set up is meant to be as slick as possible, so I'd like to match my other gauges.
PART 1: THE DASH
Lets start out with the dash itself. I ordered it from Riffraff and got it about 2 weeks later. I am VERY pleased with it. It's obvious that Clay takes pride in his work and the fact that "Made in USA" has to mean something
This is how it looked coming out of the box:
You can see that both sides of the face plate are engraved. This way you can choose either the larger or smaller logos.
After just a few minutes I already got to modding
All switches are Carling Contura II rocker switches. I got the labels and extra switches form a company called MUD UK. I wish I didnt have to order from UK but Carling switches are some of the MOST COMPLICATED thing to try and order online, and this company makes it easy and also has some switches I cant find anywhere else. They also made the LED window labels.
BEACON: This will be my flag light. I am wiring in a light to mount in the bed so that I can (respectfully) fly my flag at night. It have done it once out of necessity because I didnt want to lay the flag in the bed. So I took my LED mag light and stuck it in the stake pocket. It gave it a super cool effect and in 20 minutes I got 2 thumbs up, a honk and a train horn.
BLANK 1: Right now this switch is just an ON-OFF, but it will be changed to an ON-ON-OFF. This kind of switch allowed you to turn on one, or two circuits with one switch. I am going to wire it up to off road lights. The first circuit will be driving lights, the second will be long range lights.
BLANK 2: No registered purpose yet.
OBA: This will provide switched power to an on board air (OBA) compressor.
UP|DOWN: This is a MOM-OFF-MOM switch that will activate one of two 12v solenoids in the air system. One will allow air to flow into the air bags, one will drain the air bags. This is effectively just like the Firestone kit, just a lot nicer and sleek looking.
DOWN: Currently this is also a MOM-OFF-MOM but will be switched out for a MOM-OFF. This is going to also activate a 12v air solenoid. This one will be plumbed into the air tank so that the tank can be drained of pressure.
The two gauge pods will hold 2 air pressure gauges, one for the tank, and one for the bags. I am still playing around with this and if ISSPRO will make me a dual needle version I might opt for that. However that decision will ultimately depend on price. They do offer a dual needle, just not in the EV2 and this whole set up is meant to be as slick as possible, so I'd like to match my other gauges.
#2
PART 2: WIRING
This is going to be a 'because I can' part. But really, isnt the whole thing?
With that many wires running around I decided to up the ante and make an entire harness. This is going to be a pain in the rear but in the end it will satisfy my OCD
Start out with a way to assemble the harness. Sure, a work bench could do, but I've seen how the pros do it. Rest assured, this is not how they do it. They have walls with pegs, and outlines of where wires go and stuff. But this will be good enough. Seeing as I work at a home improvement store right now, I have all this stuff at my disposal.
Simple thumb tacks hold the wiring in place, and post its will serve as labeling. Along the side is a 4' ruler to make for measuring wire easier.
I got a roll or 250' of neon green mason line and I am using that to trace out the path for the wiring in the truck. I have only done one so far, and that was the flag light because it's the easiest. I ran the masonry line through the truck down the frame and to its eventual home in the stake pocket, then cut to length. Now I know exactly how much wire I need for that circut and will use it as a template for later.
PART 2.1: FUSES/RELAYS
I think I am going to use this custom made fuse/relay box from Wagon Gear. I cant find a more mainstream one that does the same thing and this one is so well built its hard to find a better one. Its steep at $95 + shipping, but the components and time are worth it. Having OCD is expensive.
That is as far as I have gotten so far. I dont plan on having all the accessories by the time I run the wires, so they will get terminated at the location where they will be. For example I will run the off road lights to the front of the truck and terminate them there and secure them for the time being.
This is going to be a 'because I can' part. But really, isnt the whole thing?
With that many wires running around I decided to up the ante and make an entire harness. This is going to be a pain in the rear but in the end it will satisfy my OCD
Start out with a way to assemble the harness. Sure, a work bench could do, but I've seen how the pros do it. Rest assured, this is not how they do it. They have walls with pegs, and outlines of where wires go and stuff. But this will be good enough. Seeing as I work at a home improvement store right now, I have all this stuff at my disposal.
Simple thumb tacks hold the wiring in place, and post its will serve as labeling. Along the side is a 4' ruler to make for measuring wire easier.
I got a roll or 250' of neon green mason line and I am using that to trace out the path for the wiring in the truck. I have only done one so far, and that was the flag light because it's the easiest. I ran the masonry line through the truck down the frame and to its eventual home in the stake pocket, then cut to length. Now I know exactly how much wire I need for that circut and will use it as a template for later.
PART 2.1: FUSES/RELAYS
I think I am going to use this custom made fuse/relay box from Wagon Gear. I cant find a more mainstream one that does the same thing and this one is so well built its hard to find a better one. Its steep at $95 + shipping, but the components and time are worth it. Having OCD is expensive.
That is as far as I have gotten so far. I dont plan on having all the accessories by the time I run the wires, so they will get terminated at the location where they will be. For example I will run the off road lights to the front of the truck and terminate them there and secure them for the time being.
#3
#4
I'd at least get a few switches. Ya never know. You could even use the switches to toggle some of the gauges. For example have a switch that switches one gauge between Trans Temp and Coolant Temp. Its a very easy switch to wire up. Any ON-ON switch should do it.
#5
ya i do need at least one switch for the 2 tractor lights ill put on my ladder bar rack when ever i finish that....
#7
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#8
PART 3: DASH INSTALLATION
I got the dash put in today. Wasnt too bad. I have nothing wired yet, but I was asked to remove the dash from the dining table. It's easy enough to undo when the time comes to wire it all in.
Before:
You have to remove the dash trim piece
This is the only hard part. Ford didnt want these dashs removed. You have to do it upside down. Its easier with the radio and dash trim off, but you can do it blind. You will need the trash hook off thought.
Here it is finished.
Paint match isnt perfect, but it's pretty close.
I have decided to put the Bussman fuse relay box behind the trash hook. The trash hook is easily removed and will be used as an auxiliary fuse access panel.
I got the dash put in today. Wasnt too bad. I have nothing wired yet, but I was asked to remove the dash from the dining table. It's easy enough to undo when the time comes to wire it all in.
Before:
You have to remove the dash trim piece
This is the only hard part. Ford didnt want these dashs removed. You have to do it upside down. Its easier with the radio and dash trim off, but you can do it blind. You will need the trash hook off thought.
Here it is finished.
Paint match isnt perfect, but it's pretty close.
I have decided to put the Bussman fuse relay box behind the trash hook. The trash hook is easily removed and will be used as an auxiliary fuse access panel.
#12
Ok I see now. They make one for a manual. Now to come up with a reason why we "need" this to obtain wife approval ... if i dont go the buy first ask for permission later route =)
To save others from googling and searching the web page is:
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - RDP Custom F650 Dash Kit
To save others from googling and searching the web page is:
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - RDP Custom F650 Dash Kit
#13
Ok I see now. They make one for a manual. Now to come up with a reason why we "need" this to obtain wife approval ... if i dont go the buy first ask for permission later route =)
To save others from googling and searching the web page is:
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - RDP Custom F650 Dash Kit
To save others from googling and searching the web page is:
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - RDP Custom F650 Dash Kit
#14
The dash colors seem to be adjusting haha. Probably just the lighting but they look much closer now. The seam on the right still looks off, but as they roll together and dont butt up it actually looks good like a two tone design.
PART 4: Wiring
Today I decided to make the first of the wiring harnesses. I chose this one because it is the simplest and smallest.
This harness has a Ground, +12v Ignition and a +12v Illumination, which is for the backlit buttons and comes on with marker lights. This harness will run up to the radio, where you can find all of those sources.
This pin wiring table came with the extra switches I ordered, and has all of the pins for every style Carling switch.
Its not great, but I learned some tricks and hope the next one will be even better.
I will still be adding some connectors to the end to connect directly to the switches.
PART 4: Wiring
Today I decided to make the first of the wiring harnesses. I chose this one because it is the simplest and smallest.
This harness has a Ground, +12v Ignition and a +12v Illumination, which is for the backlit buttons and comes on with marker lights. This harness will run up to the radio, where you can find all of those sources.
This pin wiring table came with the extra switches I ordered, and has all of the pins for every style Carling switch.
Its not great, but I learned some tricks and hope the next one will be even better.
I will still be adding some connectors to the end to connect directly to the switches.